McMuttley Posted June 14, 2015 Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 Currently restoring the door trim. One of the pockets is hanging off, the other is loose. They are probably good enough to re-use (especially as Moss ask £35 each for a bit of folded card !) They were fixed on by several hundred short staples. However, the pockets have holes that I assume were intended for screws. The trim fitting screws appear to be too long to screw from the pocket side of the door panel without risking coming through the vinyl inside the car ? Thoughts ? I was going to try using Wooles AF178 glue (I have tins of the stuff!), but they need something more robust. Would a shorter self tapper work as a reinforcement once the pocket is glued down? I could use trim screws with cup washers through to say spire nuts inside the door panel, but then there would screws all over the door and it would end up looking a bit Alexander McQueen. Thoughts ? ps, with the trim panel off, the passenger door is loose (driver's isn't. Is this normal or might i have loosened something in the mechanism when unscrewing the panel ? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted June 14, 2015 Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 (edited) IIRC the door pockets were held to the card by a split rivet. Don't know the correct term for these - I'll try to look it up. Bifurcated rivet, maybe? (Edit - Yes) AlanR Edited June 14, 2015 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted June 14, 2015 Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 Hi McMuttley ~ If you PM me your eMail address I'll send you photo's of the door pockets I made from Aluminium. Cheers ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted June 14, 2015 Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 (edited) IIRC the door pockets were held to the card by a split rivet. Don't know the correct term for these - I'll try to look it up. Bifurcated rivet, maybe? (Edit - Yes) AlanR indeed, split rivets BTW, mine. Homemade. Menno Edited June 14, 2015 by Menno van Rij 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve R Posted June 14, 2015 Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 Austin If you can't get split rivets you could use pop rivets with a washer on the back side, they would be flush when covered by new foam and vinyl. I fixed the new covering on mine with staples, it does mean you can do it again if it doesn't look right. Be careful if you drill new holes through the re-finished panel, the drill bit will snatch the foam and drag it all out through the hole you make! Good Luck Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 14, 2015 Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 The rivets are put through from the outside before the vinyl is fitted so unless you want to remove the vinyl your best bet will be the glue, It will hold them fine as there isnt really much room for them to go anywhere. What do you mean by the door is loose, I suspect unless the screws holding the hinges are loose that one or both of the hinges are knackered with a worn hinge pin. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted June 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 Cheers Stu The loose door seems to be because it needs the trim panel installed to stop it rattling ! That was overtaken by the door then not opening when the trim panel was replaced, but that seems to have been as one of the trim screws was pressing into the plate o=ver the locking mechanism. That was fixed only to be replaced by the need to address the fact that a piece of paint the size of 2 5p coins has flaked off ! It will be under the wing mirror mount - but FFS, why does fixing one problem on these cars only reveal another issue !!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Graham Posted June 15, 2015 Report Share Posted June 15, 2015 Like Tom, I made mine, but out of sheet metal. Flattened the one old one that was in decent shape and used as a pattern to make new ones, cut out and folded the metal, and pop riveted together. Cheers, Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted June 16, 2015 Report Share Posted June 16, 2015 Hi Austin I used a combination of glue and some short self tappers that I cut down further so that they would not protrude beyond the door card into the vinyl, with a small washer for each. The self-tapper probably added little by way of support. The idea of (short) staples along each return edge, that do not pierce the door car in addition to a good glue would probably also do a reasonable job. Steady as you go though... Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR24178 Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 The best solution is to use a 2 part rivet, rivet with a cap, thats how I made mine, with millboard and rivets and then riveted to the birch plywood trim panel ( didn't use millboard for the panel as it is too bendy) The rivets are simply closed by a gentle tap of a small hammer on a solid metal block. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Made mine in thin plywood, then lined with vinyl, Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jdwtrxk Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) Making them out of sheet aluminum or other metal and then flocking them is the best solution out there. Did it on an XK150 and it worked perfectly. The TR2's ere fine... JW Edited July 1, 2015 by jdwtrxk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zbigmak Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 Does anyone have a pattern or template they can share for the door pockets? I rebuilding a TR3A which has no door panels or pockets! Cheers George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 Does anyone have a pattern or template they can share for the door pockets? I rebuilding a TR3A which has no door panels or pockets! Cheers George Hi George, Where are you? I think I have a New unused pair of late TR3A/B door boards untrimmed without pockets, that were made/supplied by John Skinner. They are for all steel doors with rounded rear corners. This assumes I can find them and they are still OK GB £ 25.00 the pair plus whatever carriage is. PM me if interested Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zbigmak Posted October 6, 2015 Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Hi McMuttley ~ If you PM me your eMail address I'll send you photo's of the door pockets I made from Aluminium. Cheers ~ Tom. Tom I believe you were kind enough to send me dimensions of the aluminium door pockets you had made. PC crashed and I lost a lot of files. Can I possibly ask you to resend? George g.makowski@gmail.com Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Zbigmak Posted October 6, 2015 Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 Hi George, Where are you? I think I have a New unused pair of late TR3A/B door boards untrimmed without pockets, that were made/supplied by John Skinner. They are for all steel doors with rounded rear corners. This assumes I can find them and they are still OK GB £ 25.00 the pair plus whatever carriage is. PM me if interested Peter W Peter Long story I am a Brit living in Poland and restoring the car there. But my family all live in Surrey and I am often there. My car is a 1958 Triumph TR3A TS22381 - Very early 3A Best Regards George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted October 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 cripes, they made cars fast in those days, olde smokey is mid Jan and is 26### today's 'hand-makers' are just plain lazy ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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