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jdwtrxk

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  1. The early TR2 toolkits are particularly tricky as the is very little information available regarding their content. Most of what we have comes from drawings and photographs offered by S-T that are not always consistent. Some of these drawings (the photograph that is often used in reference books and period TSOA booklets comes to mind) was likely a compilation of tools assembled for marketing purposes and does not necessarily dictate that those tools were precisely what a given toolkit would contain. The general list would remain pretty standard, but pattern could vary. Some of the tools in the photograph may be from contemporary S-T toolkits. SSP (Sheffield Steel Products) provided a lot of tools in the postwar era. Later, T. Williams provided a greater percentage. The axiom that they 'used whatever they had' has been overstated for years, most often by vendors wanting to sell what they had on hand - but it's not entirely inaccurate, particularly with these early kits. Later TR3 and TR3A/4 kits were pretty well locked down. In the 150-175 kits I've been able to deal with over the last twenty five years, variation has been minimal on these, mostly in details of the grease guns and tool rolls. TR2 is a different story entirely. There simply aren't enough 'documented' TR2 toolkits out there from which creditable conclusions can be drawn. There were some variants of the early jacks. I have seen two versions of 'feet' on the shorter ones. One has a 'cupped' foot like the one in the TR2 handbook and the other a flatter foot more like those on later Smiths' and B.T.C jacks. They are otherwise identical. Thus it seems reasonable that there were even greater variations in early jacks. There were issues with the TR2 jacks; one that I had was bent thirty degrees (likely from the car shifting when it was being used although the hook was undamaged). If the larger version is indeed 'legit' than it could have been an answer to this problem. The curious part is trying to determine if there was a cutoff between these two major variants, particularly if there isn't direct compatibility of the brackets. From what people are posting here it almost seems random. JW
  2. Hi. Finally got on. The jack on the right in Robin's post is what is seen in TR2 toolkits. I haven't seen one of the larger ones like the one on the left. Don't mean it ain't so....
  3. I had a Magenta 1973 TR6 parts car that was painted Damson or some other close maroon when new or nearly new. Car still had 1976 tags so it didn't live long. Wasn't wrecked, either - just the sort of rust one would expect from an aging TR. Things we broke apart back in the day would be a great resto candidate today. Colors people thought were awful when new really are special now. I'm a huge fan of Ice Blue and Geranium; was greatly relieved in the early 90's that 227 was Pearl White; sorta now wish it had been either of the former. Olive Yellow? not so sure. JW
  4. Vermillion is not horribly uncommon and quite nice on the right car. By contrast the red most often seen in these later TR3's was a darker red - almost halfway between the typical red sold by many purveyors today and Blackberry. Blue with vermillion or red isn't that unusual either but could never be considered common. Your car with the hardtop in place would actually be rather attractive. Fawn side screens with a black hood? Dunno what the original owner was thinking... I have the title to a slightly later car that was originally Pearl White/Vermillion with a Sunset Red hardtop which is pretty close to Vermillion as far as paint goes. Some really neat stuff came out of Coventry - not all BRG, Red, White or Black cars. Other than the early colors (Olive Yellow, Ice Blue and Geramium) the smallmouth had the most interesting and unusual array of choices.... JW
  5. Pretty nice example. It looks period even if it does post date most if not all side curtain cars and would have been a welcome addition to most any of them had it been available. I had one on the 3A after it went into driver mode (auto trans sorta forced that issue) and it did help. Engine never heated much but the trans did - blew up before I put a cooler on it. JW
  6. I have one let's see if it's good. firsttr2joe@gmail.com
  7. Lovely car. What is it with Ice Blue? A color that nobody really wanted back in the day is now considered beautiful. i am one of those who share this sentiment. Sorta wish my Pearl White was IB...and I like Pearl White.
  8. I have used Joe's decals. They work fine and look much better than the heavy 'stickers' sold by most purveyors.. Get a pair in case you have difficulties or need to replace it later to save postage... note that the decal in the picture is not applied properly; the decal on these early ones should be oriented to read from the left side of the car presumably as that's the location of the dipstick. Later versions of the 'big' oil filler decal faced to the front.
  9. My pleasure viv. The Roadster Factory has them here so I'm pretty sure they are available from other purveyors. Hope there's someone close DU as postage would be brutal JW
  10. The upper seals with the bit that wraps around the w/s flange are actually for later 3A's; through early/middlish 3A's the hoods (tops) had a seal of similar shape that was sewn into the hood and covered on the visible part with (typically) light tan moquette. Same color as the stuff glued to the top of the front hoodstick to reduce chaffing. When fitting the hood you had to run your finger along the seal to 'set' it. When the hood changed to the later style without this seal, the w/s seal was altered to suit. People have used this later seal for years as it was the only one reproduced. The early one is now available. If unwanted skull/windscreen contact is a major concern, the later seal would help a bit i suspect, but not much. Almost better to fit a racing style 3 point harness? Bit of work but....
  11. Making them out of sheet aluminum or other metal and then flocking them is the best solution out there. Did it on an XK150 and it worked perfectly. The TR2's ere fine... JW
  12. Chassis frames were indeed often painted colors used in bodies. You would think the cross tube would be the same color but black might be possible in some cases. Being left loose would help assembly and might get in the way when the frames were stacked in transport and storage. Mine was Powder Blue on TS30690L and Signal Red on TS50190L. The latter car still had a pretty glossy red frame thirty odd years after being built. Other goofy combos that have been documented are; Red on BRG and Black (seems like a lot of red frames on 59 cars in the early and mid 50K range but likely no significance Powder blue on Silver Grey and Black (bunches of Powder Blue in the 30K range and late 50K and early 60K range but again as above) Primrose yellow on black and Powder Blue BRG on Powder Blue and Red These are just a few from memory in a pinch - I've heard of plenty more. Very unlikely that TR2 and early cars had this often but photos of TS141L has traces of what appears to be Geranium on the frame....was a black car. Anyone have a white frame? Would be lovely on a red car but holy h--l to keep clean. I'd paint the tube to match the chassis. Looks rather neat if it's a color other than black and does tend to draw a lot of questions at shows used to black frames.
  13. The swivel type actually was the optional fitment until the introduction of the slide type at TS42400 (NA Market) and was available in other markets till the end. I had one in a box that i traded to an early 3A owner for another type of swivel ashtray usually seen as a BMC option that there is some basis to suggest were available on the earliest TR2s before the typical swivel one was produced. I wish i had a picture of the 'typical' ashtray; should have taken one for reference years ago. They are out there. The bulk of the 70109 piece is black bakelite and the screen or tray or whatever the bit the butts go into was chrome. It installs by two small screws to the lip of the fascia usually outboard of the steering wheel but a better spot is where the sliding type was mounted below the passenger's side fascia support bracket. These ashtrays are fragile and In either place are very susceptible to being broken by errant knees. In that regard the 'possible' earlier chrome ashtray is a bit safer as it pivots inside its case, but these early ones are also easy to miss with ashes and too small to use for storing little items - thus not as effective in their job. You can't beat the sliding type as either an ashtray or a general purpose small unit storage bin. They aren't pretty, but they are virtual buckets. Unfortunately they have become ridiculously expensive. Comparatively, the swivel types are useless except for the 'bling' factor and that they are great little early bits. Again, sorry no picture. Lots of good people in here - surely one will turn up.
  14. The Lucas spare bulb holders are rather neat though...as well as the inspection lamps and terminals. Did have opportunities to use those. JW
  15. Excellent. Make sure if you replace the label it reads from the left side rather then the front. Joe Richards has very nice water transfers that look better then the thick decals. JW
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