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Aaaghhh... I have a sticky clutch.

I had my gearbox overhauled last August and fitted a new Moss B&B clutch kit with new carrier (not bronze), release fork pivot pins, new doubled up cross shaft bushes and drilled crosshaft for a roll pin, I fitted the GB with new bolts and firstly with the correct dowel bolts and torqued up. I had a low clutch pedal last year but it worked fine I.e. not sticky, so over the winter, after advise from the forum I welded up the elongated pedal hole, new push rods, pedal bushes, flexible pipe, new slave rubbers & clevis pins. The clutch works beautifully until it gets hot and then goes sticky, not undeliverable but annoying especially when pulling away but not jerky. What have I done to make things change over the winter?

So is it box out?

Your help and advise, as always is very much appreciated.

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Kevo,

Hydraulics? The winter's fettling has got rid of the low pedal. Now the the master cylinder seal is working in a different section of its bore - a worn section? The m/c gets hot from exhaust heated, trapped,underbonnet air. Try new m/c seals?

Peter

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Peter Thanks, that’s a good point as it’s the only thing I haven’t touched. I had assumed the Master Cylinder was new (ish, I’ve had the car now for nearly 4 years). I’ll order a set of seals and give it a try. Worth doing, rather not take the gearbox out just yet.

Many Thanks.

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Hi Kevo,

 

Such stickiness as described befell my '250 before I twigged that the gearbox had to be better aligned than the 5/16" bolts achieve. This was certainly due to the t/o bearing sleeve dragging on the snout of the 'box, and did in fact only occur when hot. Never happened after learning this and implementing corrective measures. So the fact you've seen to the alignment properly is befuddling...but mine squeeled upon initial t/o bearing engagement too.

 

Tom

Edited by Tom Fremont
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Hi Kevo,

 

Such stickiness as described befell my '250 before I twigged that the gearbox had to be better aligned than the 5/16" bolts achieve. This was certainly due to the t/o bearing sleeve dragging on the snout of the 'box, and did in fact only occur when hot. Never happened after learning this and implementing corrective measures. So the fact you've seen to the alignment properly is befuddling...but mine squeeled upon initial t/o bearing engagement too.

 

Tom

Hi Tom, befuddling it is. No noises but as Peter has pointed out the M/C seals have got to be worth a try as that's the only part that I have not fiddled with.

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I'm watching this thread with interest, I too have a 'sticky clutch'. Only really apparent when fully warmed up after maybe 30-40 miles. I have sort of got used to it now as whilst I would prefer the clutch smooth I would also like it to be like my wife's Audi and featherlight but that's not going to happen.

 

It was suggested to me that it was the release bearing sticking and it would be better to live with it than drag the gearbox out.

 

Just so glad it's not just me who suffers from the everyday woes of owning a 6.

 

I feel for you Kevo, two steps forward and one back! are you going on the New Forest Run?

 

Jim

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Hi Jim,

 

If your sticky clutch is owing to a misaligned gearbox it doesn't require dragging it out, but does require slackening the entire bolt circle, fitting 3/8" bolts at the designated sites and retightening. Not a picnic, but better than the agony of removal.

 

I might add that such misalignment ( if present in your case - maybe it's not ) imposes high stresses on the input shaft bearing in extreme cases.

 

Cheers,

Tom

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Hi Kevo & Jim,

I read this thread also with interest as we had exactly the same issue with our triumph Stag after working on the gearbox and clutch. I realise is not TR6, but all part of the same family. Just like you Kevo, clutch was all nice and smooth when cold, but as warmed up became progressively sticky/jerky. I can confirm that it definitely was the gearbox to engine alignment that just needed a tweak.

 

Basically do exactly as Tom says. In our case we did the final tweak alignment with the engine idling. after just loosening the bell housing bolts, we supported the weight of the gearbox and with engine idling operated the clutch a couple of times. Then nipped up all the bolts again. Afterwards had a clutch as smooth as silk, as has been for last 5 years+

With the TR6 I think you'll have to take the gearbox cover off to get at all the bell housing bolts, so bit of a hassle, but at least not any expensive spares required!

 

Whilst I can see why Peter suggested the master cylinder, I doubt its that, particularly as any issue here would not change with engine temperature. pretty sure minor misalignment is the one to solve.

 

Hope this helps you both.

cheers,

J.

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I feel for you Kevo, two steps forward and one back! are you going on the New Forest Run?

 

Jim

Thanks Jim, yes I am going. Maybe we can have a good old chat about it and compare notes. I have been trying to go on the run for the last 4 years but there has always been something conspiring against me. Looking forward to it.

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Hi Kevo & Jim,

I read this thread also with interest as we had exactly the same issue with our triumph Stag after working on the gearbox and clutch. I realise is not TR6, but all part of the same family. Just like you Kevo, clutch was all nice and smooth when cold, but as warmed up became progressively sticky/jerky. I can confirm that it definitely was the gearbox to engine alignment that just needed a tweak.

 

Basically do exactly as Tom says. In our case we did the final tweak alignment with the engine idling. after just loosening the bell housing bolts, we supported the weight of the gearbox and with engine idling operated the clutch a couple of times. Then nipped up all the bolts again. Afterwards had a clutch as smooth as silk, as has been for last 5 years+

With the TR6 I think you'll have to take the gearbox cover off to get at all the bell housing bolts, so bit of a hassle, but at least not any expensive spares required!

 

Whilst I can see why Peter suggested the master cylinder, I doubt its that, particularly as any issue here would not change with engine temperature. pretty sure minor misalignment is the one to solve.

 

Hope this helps you both.

cheers,

J.

Thanks James, maybe worth a try. Still contemplating on what to do. May be it will get better all by it's self:-)
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I'm watching this thread with interest, I too have a 'sticky clutch'. Only really apparent when fully warmed up after maybe 30-40 miles. I have sort of got used to it now as whilst I would prefer the clutch smooth I would also like it to be like my wife's Audi and featherlight but that's not going to happen.

 

It was suggested to me that it was the release bearing sticking and it would be better to live with it than drag the gearbox out.

 

Just so glad it's not just me who suffers from the everyday woes of owning a 6.

 

I feel for you Kevo, two steps forward and one back! are you going on the New Forest Run?

 

Jim

 

I feel for you Kevo, two steps forward and one back! are you going on the New Forest Run?

 

Jim

Thanks Jim, yes I am going. Maybe we can have a good old chat about it and compare notes. I have been trying to go on the run for the last 4 years but there has always been something conspiring against me. Looking forward to it.

 

Jim, if you decide to pull the box out I am always willing to give you a hand.

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Thanks Kevo, that's a very kind offer you may live to regret!

 

I have to do a radiator swap during the week as long as some brackets arrive in time, I really don't want to resort to mounting the kenlowe on tie straps again. So assuming that all goes well I'll be there.

 

Feeling very smug this afternoon having finished repairing an old Sharp radio cassette that I doubt has been switched on in 20 years and it works a treat.

 

Jim

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Did you change the fork at the same time?

Hi Neil, not a 100% sure but the gearbox rebuilder either replaced mine or put new pins in mine. As the were new when I got it back.

What are your thoughts on this?

Many Thanks.

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Thanks Kevo, that's a very kind offer you may live to regret!

I have to do a radiator swap during the week as long as some brackets arrive in time, I really don't want to resort to mounting the kenlowe on tie straps again. So assuming that all goes well I'll be there.

Feeling very smug this afternoon having finished repairing an old Sharp radio cassette that I doubt has been switched on in 20 years and it works a treat.

Jim

Hi Jim, hope all goes well and hope to see you Sunday.

If you need help with the box my offer still stands ;-)

I take it you got all the plugs OK for the radio?

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Hi Neil, not a 100% sure but the gearbox rebuilder either replaced mine or put new pins in mine. As the were new when I got it back.

What are your thoughts on this?

Many Thanks.

Kevo

Who built it? the pins need to be round and have clearance on the bearing.

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Kevo

Who built it? the pins need to be round and have clearance on the bearing.

Neil it was Pete Cox, the pins were round and there was a small amount of clearance. Not sure what clearance it should of been but it felt right to me when i put it together.

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Hi Neil

I can't remember (memory is not as good sinse my brain hemorrhage) but I think I was meant to put a small amount of copper grease on but in my haste to get the gearbox in anybody's guess.

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Kev

I know of what you have been though from the forum,as you know we have not met,if it was fitted dry then the problem may lie there ? the new clutch should have also been provided with grease. If the clutch works ok from cold it will not be the master.Panic not enjoy your run ;) we will sort it give me time,I think there is a way round this without pulling the box.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi

I have decided to take out my gearbox again tomorrow to resolve my sticky clutch issue.

What parts should I grease with a smidgeon of copper ease and is there any other procedure I should be doing ie. polishing up etc.

 

Many Thanks.

 

PS I had used a new steel bearing carrier but is it worth changing it for a bronze one?

Edited by Kevo_6
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Hi

I have decided to take out my gearbox again tomorrow to resolve my sticky clutch issue.

What parts should I grease with a smidgeon of copper ease and is there any other procedure I should be doing ie. polishing up etc.

 

Many Thanks.

Hi Kevo,I am not to sure whether copper grease is a good Idea as it is mainly an anti seize compound for threads,it will of course work but I wouldn't have thought for long in a bellhousing environment. I believe that there are correct greases available for this application but as to a specific "best" somebody here will know.

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