Federau Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 (edited) Actually I could leave this topic just with the title. However, let me elaborate a little. When I got my fist TR6 I had great difficulty in just moving it from the place it was parked. Finally, with brute force, I got it in reverse and could drive away. I thought that something seriously was wrong with the gearbox but a little later I learned from friendly club colleagues that the gear lever should be lifted a little - which helps as you all know. God knows why this is not mentioned in the handbook. When I got my second 6'er (last september) I found that on this the reverse gear was even more unfriendly. Actually, since it was fitted with a wooden knob, i ended up pulling the knob offf - in fact the outer part of it. Looking in the manual (37.16.01) it is clear that the reverse gate is somewhat higher that the other gates meaning that lifting the lever when shifting to reverse makes sense. Furthermore, I think shifting could be better, smoother. I must say that I do not dislike the feeling of "metal against metal", that one can actually feel the forks moving and I do not want the feeling I have in the Audi, but still, I'd like it to be more userfriendly. Since I at present have stripped the interiour I wonder if I shoud take the opportunity of adjusting the the gear change lever. Would that help? I'd really apreciate comments and hints on this problem. I think it is general. Manfred Sorry about the misprinting in the tittle. Edited March 7, 2015 by Federau Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Hi I think your issue lies in the top over and the selector forks, so you should take the top cover off and adjust the reverse selector lever - this engages a small cog on the LHS of the gearbox, via a lever. the assembly is bolted to the side of the gearbox. If all this lines up nicely and the detent springs are free to move, you should be able to engage reverse reasonably easily. Regards Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 (edited) How far does the clutch travel before bite ? Edited March 7, 2015 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Manfred, When selecting reverse as you say the gearstick requires to be lifted, this is a definite requirement and any adjustment should be very carefully made, you really don't want to be selecting reverse when going from 3rd gear to 4th gear ! If you doubt this can happen I've done it under race conditions when going through the Devils Elbow at Mallory park at around about 90 mph. The corner is an adverse camber left hander dropping away downhill and the G forces corrupt your gear selection which instead of a nice straight pull somehow becomes a lift and a dog leg drag. No I didn't engage the clutch, as I started to release it I could hear the cog and start to feel a hesitation and dropped the clutch double quick and tried again. When I related it to some of the fellow racers they admitted to having done it also and got away with it as did I. I admit the circumstances are unlikely to be replicated on the roads but the reverse selection still needs to be a definite movement and with a different action from a normal change. Try to improve it but beware making the change toooooo easy. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 ...you should be able to engage reverse reasonably easily... Agreed. Should take only a couple of fingers, but it should definitely require a lift. Try releasing the clutch in neutral and then reapplying to select reverse -- that'll sometimes help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Prey tell the need to lift the stick is it in the manual? no and never felt the need. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Sidescreen gearshift knobs, original and reproduction: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Don, I don't think those are early sidescreen gear knobs. Maybe TR3B, with the TR4 all-syncro gear box? AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 (edited) The one on the left is the modern TRF reproduction, Alan. The one on the right is an original sidescreen knob from the TR3/TR3A era, as far as I can tell. Yes, the same one was used on the TR3B and early TR4, too.Early sidescreen cars used a knob without the legend, as in this original example on TS2XXXLO. Edited March 8, 2015 by Don H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Only applied to the solid bolt though the stick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Federau Posted March 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 Thanks to all of you.Neil, about clutch travel distance: I do no know exaxtly but I can say (and this goes both to my present and my former 6'er) that if the clutch isn't completely floored, all shifting feels "binding" and difficult. Is it possible to adjust the clutch to give a longer travel before "bite"? Manfred Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 There is a step but I have never found it necessary to lift the gearstick, a sharp smack is usually enough to get the gearstick to go into the reverse slot. One thing that can make it difficult is if the anti rattle spring and plunger are not installed correctly, they can interfere with the transition into reverse. I had that exact problem on my TR6. My observation is that the action of going into reverse was designed for RHD cars where it is a natural pulling action vs the awkward push action needed on a LHD car. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 You should still lift it to engage reverse no matter what gear stick you have fitted and yes I know it never said that in any of the owners manuals but if you look at NOS reverse selector cups for the gear change you will see there is a definite step up to the reverse one.as without it you can very easily see how it would be possible to engage reverse whilst changing up or down through the gears. Thats also why you have a spring under the retaining cap. Its usually all previous owners that have effectively wiped off the step by smacking it into reverse. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Zodiac Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Hi, Seems to me like the tapered pin in the clutch fork is broken....think that's what Neil is getting at too... Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Federau Posted March 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Thanks again. The season in Denmark begins in a few days (15/3) - this is if you have the cheap veteran car insurance. I'll adjust the gear change lever and I'll then have a go at it. Perhaps I just have to get used to it, because actually I've done less than 1000 k in my two TRs. Manfred Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Zodiac Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Manfred, If its difficult to engage with the engine stopped its the selector adjustment. If its OK stopped, but won't engage when its running its the clutch fork locating pin. If the pin is broken it will only get worse and eventually you will have to start it in gear..... There are many solutions on the forum but all involve removing the gearbox. The cost is all in the labour as the part costs only a few Pounds / Euros. With the fork located correctly and a decent clutch fitted the car is much more enjoyable - even good (albeit heavy) by modern standards. If your weather is like ours at the moment I would leave it in the garage and sort the problem. Get it out when the sun shines and enjoy it. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tom hall Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 (edited) Coincidently my beloved had her first drive of the TR yesterday and complained that she couldn't engage reverse, I said just give it a good thump and in it goes, as I have been doing for the last 18 years....... Thank you for the above information-you're never too old to learn! Edited March 9, 2015 by tom hall Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Federau Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Steve, thanks. Let me put it this way: I have no problems to engage reverse, neither stopped nor running. The problem is that lifting the lever requires much muscle. Sometimes I just use both hands! And as I said: I've actually pulled off the knob! I see no difference between egaging stopped and running. I gather I'll take this summer and then think about removing the gearbox next winter. I am sure an overhaul of both gearbox and clutch would do the car good. Manfred Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Federau Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Steve (and others) I just had another look in the workshop manual. It appears (naturally) that there is a spring located under the cap and plate in the shifting mechanism. It could be that spring being just too strong, or what? Another indication on this is, that there is quite a "heavy clonck" when shifting back in neutral. Can that spring be "softened"? Manfred Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Its possible that the wrong spring has been fitted or its upside down. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Federau Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Thanks Stuart, I've now ordered a new spring from Rimmerbross and when it arrives I'll try to take the things apart and have a look at the spring. If the new spring is just as stiff as the old one I think I'll make an attempt to (carefully) thin the material of the spring in order to make it softer. Maybe shortening it a little also could be useful. When I looked at things this morning I discovered that the small bolt at the rear, presumably securing the cap, is missing. I do not know if I should be frightened by this but I gather it would be problematic if the cap came off while driving. However, I think the locknuts of the adjustment pins also will hold the cap, or what? Could anyone tell me the dimension of this bolt? I take it that the cap must be pressed down and turned anticlockwise for taking it off. Manfred Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Federau Posted March 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 I think I owe you the end of the story - and thanks for all the good advice. I wanted to modify the spring but since I didn't want to risk being without a usable spring, I first ordered one from Rimmer Bros. I took the gear change unit apart, gave it a nice clean-up (it was very messy!) and took out the spring. It wasn't upside down and judging by feel it had the same spring constant as the new one. Therefore, I carefully filed down the middle coil of the new spring to approximately three quarters of its original thiknes. This didn't make it feel very soft but it was clearly softer than the old one. I greased the parts, put it all together and adjusted the gears as per workshop manual. Now it all works much better. It dosn't take much effort to lift the lever and it clikcs nicely into reverse and - I am quite sure there is no danger of changing to reverse istead of top gear! Thanks again Best regards Manfred Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Federau Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 A little correction. I just checked my notes and it appears that I think I thinned down the middle coil a little more perhaps down to two thirds or so. I can recommend this operatio if you feel that the lever is hard to lift. Manfred Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Glad you got it sorted out Manfred. Got to make good use of those long Danish summer days. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Manfred in the attached post is a picture of the two types of gearlever spring with their correct gearlevers. I can tell you from experience that if you use the later spring with the early gearstick the stick, the lever is loose and slops about. (which is opposite to your problem) http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/50771-will-tr4a-gear-stick-fit-tr6-gearbox/ Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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