grumpy2 Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 this is my handbrake, its got a flyoff mechanism which i don't like. Its also got a second hole to increase the leverage which currently isn't being used. is this a standard handbrake?, has it been modified and how should it look? closer pic I can't figure out how to return the mechanism back to standard so any help would be appreciated thanks Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Denis Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 Have a look on ebay, there's one on offer from the USA which has a good pictures for you to compare to your one, which looks standard to me? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted January 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 I've been looking but can't find one on ebay I think the connection hooked through the bottom of the pawl should somehow connect to the top of the pawl, but I don't know how Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 26, 2015 Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 (edited) A fly off isn't standard on the TR6 so it looks like a PO has either modified the original or fitted a 4A one. I seem to recall reading somewhere how to covert a fly off to normal operation but can't remember where, sorry. The extra hole is a mod much referred to in the forum and it increase the handbrake effectiveness. Edit: here's one entry on the forum. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/37226-handbrake-conversion/ Edited January 26, 2015 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted January 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2015 thanks, I think you told me about the extra hole on a different thread, I'd like to return the handbrake back to standard but don't know if the parts I have can be used or not. I'm sure the handbrake lever, ratchet and cable attachment are all standard but I'm not sure about the pawl and connecting lever. If they are standard how have they been altered and what should they be returned to? thanks Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Gary, I think that the only difference is the pawl (part no. 104737). Both the TR4A and 6 have the same part no. for the ratchet. My TR6 has only one hole in the lever and appears to be in the position of your upper hole. Whoever has drilled the second hole has probably made the lever even worse. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) I know I shouldn't comment on TR6 stuff but!! should the operating rod stand so far outside the handle body. On the 4A it is a much tidier affair.. Roger Edited January 27, 2015 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 no I think that's how its been modified to a fly off handbrake and the hole drilled. I think the rod should pass through/over/round the upper part of the pawl but I'm not sure and don't see how it would be attached inside the lever casing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Hi Gary Just dug mine out . It is the non fly off ,the release rod goes over the top of the pawl. Spoon shape not attached just fits over. The hole nearest the fulcrum pin is the original. Interestingly mine does not have a cover over the ratchet plate were it protrudes out the top when hand brake is off. Mark PS sorry would post a pic but system not letting me since my profile pic disappeared. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) So you need the TR6 pawl 107437, a new rod and knob 141688 and possibly a new spring 104740 if yours is missing. And I think the hole where your clevis is attached is the original position. Edited January 27, 2015 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 Looking at mine its the hole nearest the fulcrum bolt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Denis Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 I've been looking but can't find one on ebay I think the connection hooked through the bottom of the pawl should somehow connect to the top of the pawl, but I don't know how It's still there! Under 'TR6 Handbrake' there are 22 UK entries...several more related items then further down '31 International ebay sellers' it's in that list... It's $43 (£23) but doesn't have that extra hole yours has, and the operating Rod isn't poking out like yours is! otherwise like yours it's a standard brake handle! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Hi Gary, I think this is what Denis was referring to http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR6-TR20-Original-Emergency-or-Handbrake-Handle-Assembly-GC-/331440074978?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d2b5e30e2 Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Strange that the Hole on that Lever is so High Up,thought the Original Hole was Lower and the optional one that is Drilled is the higher one,Now Confused. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 (edited) Strange that the Hole on that Lever is so High Up,thought the Original Hole was Lower and the optional one that is Drilled is the higher one,Now Confused. I thought that as well, as I have been thinking of doing that mod. Maybe they made a U S version as in http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4d2b5e30e2. Rimmers show a pic http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-UKC6206and the say UK. Edited January 28, 2015 by Kevo_6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 (edited) That's why I said I thought that the clevis was in the original position. If the upper one was original it wouldn't leave any room to do the modification for more leverage. Unless, as Kevo says, the U.S. one was different. Edited January 28, 2015 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 (edited) Be interesting to find out which is which, mines definitely nearest the fulcrum pin. Mark Edited January 28, 2015 by Mark69 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Happy hour in the garage tonight and problem solved. With the help of above suggestions, pictures and links I decided to remove the dodgy exterior link straighten it and reshape it to go over and round the pawl. Some careful measurement and marking out and the handbrake now operates as it should. I decided to use the middle hole, nearer the fulcrum and I now have about 50% more travel on the handbrake lever. This should equate to about 30% more force applied to the handbrake linkage at the drum. Some adjustment and I may well be done Many thanks gents Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trerynn Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 The hole further from the pivot point will increase the cable travel and also the pull required to apply the brake due to the decrease in angular travel of the lever and reduced lever advantage . Conversely hole near to pivot will reduce cable travel for the same lever angle change thus effort to apply brake will be reduced due to the increased lever advantage ,if there is wear in the system,the hole near to pivot will result in a much longer lever pull. This setting will seem to require less effort to apply a firm brake, pulling through a longer ark you will have in fact used the same energy, levers are great. GIVE ME A LEVER LONG ENOUGH AND A PLACE TO REST IT I WILL MOVE THE WORLD. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin_c Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I have a standard handbrake from a 74 TR6 to sell if one is needed. PM me with email address and I'll send photos if I can't attach a picture here. (Error when trying to upload photo). Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 The hole further from the pivot point will increase the cable travel and also the pull required to apply the brake due to the decrease in angular travel of the lever and reduced lever advantage . Conversely hole near to pivot will reduce cable travel for the same lever angle change thus effort to apply brake will be reduced due to the increased lever advantage ,if there is wear in the system,the hole near to pivot will result in a much longer lever pull. This setting will seem to require less effort to apply a firm brake, pulling through a longer ark you will have in fact used the same energy, levers are great. GIVE ME A LEVER LONG ENOUGH AND A PLACE TO REST IT I WILL MOVE THE WORLD. Principle of moments. FxS (ccw) =FxS (cw). ( pity apple with its multi billion bollar profit can't let me do simple physics equations easily on my iPad) Ta Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Hi Gary Looking at your hand brake can you tell which hole was original. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grumpy2 Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 I cant tell from the physical object, both holes look worn, both look well drilled and both look clean I think from looking at pictures and the geometry of the 'ear' where the hole is located that the outer hole was original. The outer hole is at the centre of the radius of the curve at the bottom of the 'ear'. Why would triumph have located the original hole in a random position relative to the shape of the 'ear'? That's my reasoning anyway Gary Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 (edited) Hi Gary, your logic is reasonable, but!!. If ST did use the closer hole then why waste all that metal where the further hole is sited. Answer - perhaps they used the 4A design and simply popped another hole in to make the action easier. However looking at it another way - if the nearer hole was the new original hole then why would anybody make the action worse by putting that extra hole in. Looking at how the operating rod was assembled wrong I would suggest that somebody attacked the handle, inserted a new hole, couldn't reassemble the rod correctly so put the whole thing back together again (badly) and gave up. Well done for sorting it out Roger Edited January 29, 2015 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Just to throw a spanner in the works. I asked Colin to send me a pic of his handbrake to cross reference it with mine , they are both identical one hole nearest the top. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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