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US spec. TR8 Fuel filler


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Hi there,

 

I just acquired a 1980 Triumph TR8 that has been imported from California. Trying to fill it up with unleaded, which it was designed for, the UK fuel nozzles do not seem to fit. At Tesco I could only drip feed £12 worth of fuel over a long period. Shell was a little better. With around 18MPG I will need to be filling it up regularly!

 

I understand the US made their unleaded fuel fillers to accept a 13/16" (20.6mm) nozzle to avoid people putting leaded fuel in and destroying the cat converters. Does anyone know what dimensions the UK nozzles are? If I changed the fuel filler to a TR7 one, will this solve the problem? Does anyone have the parts needed? I can get some of them from Rimmers:

 

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID006085#sthash.MhgcyFwT.dpuf

 

Any help will be appreciated.

 

Markpost-13219-0-75455800-1420384547_thumb.png

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There used to be an approach -- late 70s era -- to use a drift that would expand the restrictor from unleaded to leaded nozzle size. Non-sparking, IIRC, and it was a job of a few seconds to expand the opening.

 

If the filler is out of the car, it would probably be easier to expand that restrictor orifice than source new parts. You can do it in the car, but one needs to be careful, of course, of sparks and fuel vapors.

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Hi Mark,

 

You are right in saying that there is a pipe within a pipe for your car - the internal pipe can be removed (but remember this is also an anti siphon device as well)

 

In your "Rimmer's" picture it shows a plastic cage at the bottom of the pipe, just removing this helps.

 

I've always found that my car spits petrol back if you hold the filler nozzle at some angles just turning it round by 90 degrees often helps.

 

Hope this is a little help

 

Cheers

 

Ian

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Can't help with unleaded nozlles in GB, but no problem with the TR8 I have here, the continental unleaded nozzles go through the "valve" in the filler easily.

Edited by Chris59
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Mark, I should note my comments apply to a number of cars from that period, but I can't say I've seen or done that specific procedure to a TR. Don't know that the TRs orifice plate is similar to that on VWs, General Motors, and other cars that I know were de-cat'ed circa 1980.

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I have also had no problems filling my TR8 with unleaded pumps. As Ian says sometimes the fuel spits back but by swivelling the nozzle about tends to stop this. I can't understand why the nozzle does not fit in your car unless perhaps someone has done something to it!

 

 

Cheers John

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I will let you know when I find out. It may be a while as I am refurbishing my Stag hardtop at present. Lots of jobs to do. I need to measure the o.d. of the UK unleaded nozzle. That may provide the answer.

 

Thanks all, Mark

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If you're only getting 18 MPG I suggest a good tune up is required, I could usually manage an average of 24 MPG from my standard UK spec TR8.

My US, carburator TR8 runs with about 9litre/100km on long trips. (Which is about 28MPG, if my calculation is correct).

If you have a californian TR8 it is injected, should not be worse.

Wilfried

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24 or 28 MPG sounds good. I have not actually measure it yet. I was quoting an old article that stated 15US MPG. My manual Stag with 3 ltr. Triumph V8 returns around 25-27 MPG. The TR8 has twin strombergs, although imported from California it was originally exported to Arizona.

 

Lots to explore.

 

Thanks, Mark

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  • 1 month later...

Just to update on my fuel filler issue. I found that the metal round insert within the fuel filler (to stop you putting leaded fuel in - a filler within a filler) was loose. It has a spring loaded flap at the bottom and the fuel filler neck has a bar across the middle to stop you putting the fuel nozzle in too far I guess. The insert was dropping onto the bar and preventing the flap from opening and therefore very difficult to fill up. Today I filled up without any issues. I actually jammed the insert in a fixed place with the spring loaded flap jammed open. Not ideal, but getting the complete fuel filler out and back in looked to be very tricky.

 

However, now I realise that the tank is full and the gauge is only reading on 1/4 full. As the fuel is used the gauge does move to show almost empty after a while. I will check the electric connections, but if not that, can anyone suggest if this is going to be the gauge or the sender?

 

Thanks, Mark

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I'm willing to bet - it's your float that's sinking.

 

The sender in the Wedges have a plastic float (that fills with fuel - slowly over time OR quickly through a leak). This float have Jaguar part number JLM772 - and are still used for some strange reason. When you fit a new one don't forget to bend the very end of the wire loop out away from the plastic.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk107/OddHedberg/fuellevelfloat.jpg

 

A much better solution is to fit the soldered shut (like in the good old days!) brass float for the Ford Mustang 1964-1973 ( part number COAZ-9202-B ) = Moss California part number 360-646

It's VERY similar in size and since metal is better than plastic in keeping fluid firmly on one side it's a better choise. If holed they are about as bad both of them...

Edited by Odd
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Thanks Guys, I will check the wiring and if ok, I understand I need to drop the rear axle to get at the fuel tank or can you get at the sender without dropping the axle? I saw elsewhere on the net someone recommending the Mustang brass float, so that could be an option.

 

Mark

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Hi Mark,

 

if you get the car well up in the air you can remove the sender - it does need to be well up, as in on a ramp or over a pit, as there will be petrol pouring out . . . . .

 

The sender is secured by a circular locking ring, that you need to tap GENTLY anti clockwise. It will be rusty and it is fragile and you need to soak it in Plus Gas or Weasel Pee or whatever before attempting to remove. And no sparks . . . . . .

 

Make sure you have a replacement in case it disintegrates, along with the sealing ring - which will be scrap . . . . .

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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Mark, good advice as ever from Alec, & also correct that the TR8 fuel sender is different from the TR7 unit. When you look at the tank there will be two units fitted side by side, one is the in tank fuel pump the other is the sender (I think the sender is the left hand unit when looking at the front of the tank).

 

If it's just the float then you can replace that as suggested, but if the sender is faulty you need part number TKC3415 (no fuel outlet pipe), not the TR7 part number 3408 despite the fact that some "specialists" are advertising TKC3408 as TR7 & TR8 (I guess it would work in a converted car using a TR7 tank). Both use the same locking ring & gasket ARA1502 & ARA1501.

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Thanks once again Alec and Anthony. I ordered a fuel sender from Robsport yesterday and will collect on Sunday at Stoneleigh. I see they are quite different and so will call them tomorrow to check they have the right one.

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