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  1. Hi, I have stainless steel braided injector leads on my 1971 TR6, I have noticed some weeping from the top of the No.5 lead connector at the banjo on the MU. Does anyone know where I can get a single replacement lead complete with connectors? Appreciate any advice Thanks
  2. Evening gents Your thoughts/options on weather to use correct fuel tap or different type of tap or not use one at all. My correct tap leaks and has run for less than an hour. Thanks Al
  3. Hi , I have an early tr4 myself (chassis around 6800). After some research, it turned out that my tr4 must have instruments with long needles. This like the tr3. My question was what about the lighting? My instruments (with short needles) have a light for each on the back. The tr3 instruments have two central lights, I thought. Is this correct? So for my tr4, do I have to have instruments with long needles and the system of two central lights (TR3) or the back of the new model (short needles TR4) and the front of a TR3 (convex glass, long needles). I hope someone can help me out :).
  4. Well, summer temperatures in Sweden at last, and with that some, probably, fuel issues in the TR2, plugs look nice and fuel consumption is approximately 28 mpg. Nothing serious, but running slow at narrow roads is causing a bit of misfire after a while. I have put in a duct from behind the grill up to the carbs but no duct fan. What I want to ask is if anyone has tried put in a heat shield below the carbs, it will not make much difference to hot air below the bonnet, but would take away some radiation heat. Another heat related issue I've been considering is what good an electric water pump wo
  5. All, I know this topic has been done to death but I cant find any reference on the forum to my particular symptoms and associated problem with the lucas fuel pump on my TR6 1973 CR 1. Ignition on engine off the fuel pump runs perfectly albeit with the usual whine and will continue to run perfectly until switched off 2. Ignition on engine running – the pump runs perfectly for about a minute and then starts to hunt. The engine continues to run (tick over) with the pump continually hunting. Soon after shutting down the engine and restarting the pump it resumes its norm
  6. Morning all. I have just received my fuel system (Pump, PRV, MU, Injectors and Injector Pipes) back from a refurb and am in the process of refitting. When I removed everything I ensured the engine was at TDC on 1. What I am wondering is how you know where the MU is in terms of timing to ensure it is in the correct position when refitting? Thanks Cal
  7. Hi All My fuel tank woes. So for anyone that doesn’t know I’ve been restoring my 1972 TR6 Pi for, well too many years. It’s never run in my hands but after much work that is getting closer. So to the fuel tank. Clearly before I install the tank, fill it up and fire the old beast up (here's hoping lol) it needs to be in good nick. I now refer to my pic’s cuz its not!!! although i did a light inside test and no obvious holes but they could be coverred by rust and the outside is ok, with no heavy rust. So the question is is it restorable? If yes suggestio
  8. Hi everyone, I'm really looking for help and inspiration to solve a fuel related misfire now that all logical fault finding paths seem to be exhausted! Am running a 1975 CR which has been getting progressively richer during the past few years, so finally, after many attempts at tuning, the exhaust smell prompted me to exchange the metering unit. Then things got a little crazy! I chose the correct MU for the CR engine and had to modify the fuel return as this version of the MU only has the screw fitting, but the car had been built at some time in the past with a push fitting pipe conne
  9. Grinnal

    SU Carbs

    Hi Folks Can anyone recommend a garage that is good with SU carbs in the Dudley / Wolverhampton area? Thanks Mike
  10. Hi folks, thought id post something about working on my TR...... :-) I have a Bosch 996 pump that was installed in the 1990s by Racetorations and which works perfectly, can run the car right down to empty without a problem. Knowing these pumps are NLA i bought one that came up on ebay a while ago, well couple of years ago probably!, and this week decided it was time for a test. Since ill be messing with the flexible pipes ive bought some new 250psi rated flexible hose, new mounts and clips. Ive also ordered a slightly larger outlet fitting for the pump to better fit the 10mm hose.
  11. Having finally found an SD card that would work in my LM-2 AFR gauge, I took the car out for a run tonight and recorded some parts. Ignore the RPM figures, I only have an inductive clamp at the moment and it talks nonsense once on the move. Session 1 40mph - 76mph under medium acceleration Session 2 60mph - 70mph, reasonably steady Session 3 slowing down to take 360 on large roundabout, car goes rich then move off again What are your views, too weak at higher speeds I think
  12. Finally finished (as far as these cars are ever finished) BUO and went for a short test drive, only running on 5, located guilty cylinder, injector not pulsing pulled the injector (New) and the valve is just flopping about in the end of the injector stem, disconnected from the injector line and a small plastic and steel cylinder fall out, recon injector obviously need but was there anything else that could have dropped into the cylinder ? the valve its self is still in place so I'm hoping not ATB Graham
  13. Hi everyone. Just discovered that there doesn't appear to be info in the TR4 Workshop Manual on how to adjust the accelerator pedal screw. It is referred to in the Manual - P1.306, Fig 11, Items 23 & 24. However, nothing as to the correct setting. The excess thread sticks out rather a long way from the scuttle panel. See pics attached. Does anyone have a starter figure? Best wishes Willie.
  14. Dear All Please help frustrated of Notts! Car is 1972 TR6 PI In 2016 engine rebuild, new metering unit, gearbox, overdrive, hoses, injectors - the lot! Drove to France and back no problem MOT lapsed in August 2017 but now back on road and last weekend ran very well. Ran rough this morning, under powered, felt like only 5 cylinders working, checked spark plugs and No2 was fouled. Checked injectors and no.1 is fine, nice spray pattern but nothing from no.2, it has no pulse! I pinched the tip of injector and a little fuel dribbled out but then stopped. Pinched the tip several more times b
  15. Hello, still stumbling down the Efi road, one step forward two back, latest problem is fuel supply issue, tracked it down by removing fuel pipe and turning ignition on, fuel pump ran but fuel supply intermittent. Traced to swarf in my new aluminium fuel tank, is there a better way than removing tank (which I have done) swilling with fuel and emptying out and hoping I have got the last bit, as always, thanks for the assistance, Andrew
  16. I am trying to improve my mpg and the carbs have been overhauled. The engine runs and ticks over smoothly. If I lift off the top of the float chamber, how far below the edge of the chamber should the float be resting. Please advise. Thanks Richard
  17. My TR6 1972 PI suffers from overrunning ( continuous) after ignition switch is off. I discovered that the fuel pump remains running after the ignition is off and only stops when I remove battery lead. 1/ If this is the problem where is the power connection error or 2/ Is it simply a pre-inition symptom. My wiring diagram seems to be complied with but looking for options. Regards
  18. So Finally getting round to doing a few jobs. One of the things I have read for years is regarding how you should get a properly designed kit and anything else is dangerous and blah bla. So My 5 has had a bosch pump for 30 years. It doesnt have anything fancy just a 580254973 pump which was superseeded by the 910. It doesnt have a bosch filter just low down in the boot and with the CAV filter and it has done many many miles of hard driving here in the alps without ever missing a beat. So sorry folks when I read stuff about you will damage your car and stuff I am not very convinced as I a
  19. So Finally getting round to doing a few jobs. One of the things I have read for years is regarding how you should get a properly designed kit and anything else is dangerous and blah bla. So My 5 has had a bosch pump for 30 years. It doesnt have anything fancy just a 580254973 pump which was superseeded by the 910. It doesnt have a bosch filter just low down in the boot and with the CAV filter and it has done many many miles of hard driving here in the alps without ever missing a beat. So sorry folks when I read stuff about you will damage your car and stuff I am not very convinced as I a
  20. Hi I have taken apart the metering unit and control unit, since fuel was leaking from the control unit. The fuel seal/control diaphragm is perished. I have order a replacement from Rimmers, part No. 519870 but it does not come with the metal insert at the centre. This pre fitted diaphragm is no longer available. Does anyone know how I swap the centre insert from the old diaphragm to the new one? Do I still need it? I have checked with all the usual suppliers - they state they sell lots of diaphragms without the centre insert but no one knows how to actually fit it! Any help much
  21. So my TR6 has been in bits for nearly 5 years...I am putting it back together now. I have a problem i think with the bosch fuel pump..its whurring away put alas no fuel coming through to engine bay....i was expecting it to work again,,,its all plumbed up as before (it did run 5 years ago ).there is a gallon of petrol in the tank. Any ideas or does it sound like pump has had it ? Len
  22. What us the fast idle cam supposed to do. Mine is preventing the throttle from closing fully and this makes the tick over too high. Can I just remove it and use the choke and the foot pedal? I am sure that SU had a reason for including it. Maybe I am using it wrongly but it can not be adjusted so that the screw is clear of the cam at any point. I am planning to run without it unless someone can help. Thanks Richard
  23. I have a problem with the pistons on my H6 carbs. I am trying very carefully to tune the front carb after changing the needle because the old one was bent. The front piston falls smoothly and there is a metallic click. The rear piston fall much faster and there is a loud metallic click. I have polished the front one and tried it without the damper or the jet in place and it is slow. Which one is correct ? I would like both to be the same. The leaks have gone away and the carbs were overhauled last year. Any advice would be very welcome. Thanks Richard
  24. Good Morning Sages Getting air to the carbs? I believe I have a 4 engine with HS6’s and of course those mahoosive 'neighbour annoying' extractors sitting right underneath. I have the standard cardboard air cowl, so water temps fine and cool when poodling, but it gets very wheezy when hot. I don’t want to wrap/coat as the exhaust as it will be replaced in the nearish future. How are you venting air to the carbs (if you are)? I assume some sort of flanged intake then a hose directing air ? Recommendations, materials? Dia of hose to be effective? Demon weeks have these ? http:
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