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Found 262 results

  1. Well, summer temperatures in Sweden at last, and with that some, probably, fuel issues in the TR2, plugs look nice and fuel consumption is approximately 28 mpg. Nothing serious, but running slow at narrow roads is causing a bit of misfire after a while. I have put in a duct from behind the grill up to the carbs but no duct fan. What I want to ask is if anyone has tried put in a heat shield below the carbs, it will not make much difference to hot air below the bonnet, but would take away some radiation heat. Another heat related issue I've been considering is what good an electric water pump would do? I already have an electric pushing fan installed.
  2. All, I know this topic has been done to death but I cant find any reference on the forum to my particular symptoms and associated problem with the lucas fuel pump on my TR6 1973 CR 1. Ignition on engine off the fuel pump runs perfectly albeit with the usual whine and will continue to run perfectly until switched off 2. Ignition on engine running – the pump runs perfectly for about a minute and then starts to hunt. The engine continues to run (tick over) with the pump continually hunting. Soon after shutting down the engine and restarting the pump it resumes its normal whine. Note that before the pump starts to hunt the engine revs through its full range. 3. Take the car for a spin and the engine runs well and runs ok even with the pump hunting but will then start to splutter and cut as the pump appears to die and then resume. **The pump is NOT getting hot just warm to the touch. There is 12.5 volts and 4.9 amps at the pump with the engine running. There is over half a tank of super unleaded. I don’t suspect the MU as the engine runs too well. The MU return pipe isn’t blocked. The pump is delivering plenty of fuel and I assume the pump delivers the same pressure and flow rate whether the engine is running or not. To double check the pump wiring I connected new cables directly to the fuse box and earth. It didn’t make any difference; however, I realise this doesn’t test the tails but I don’t really suspect the wiring. The pump and MU were rebuilt about a year ago and were then checked over by Neil F. Neil also checked over the return valve and found all to be satisfactory. All of the pipe work is new as is the delphi fuel filter, (no leaks anywhere). The car has only done 150 miles since the rebuild and was running well before the above symptoms started. Unfortunately, I don’t have a pressure gauge but suspecting the PRV rather than the pump or the MU I started the engine, waited for the pump to start hunting and then clamped off the PRV return pipe. Restricting the return flow (cant fully clamp it off) almost stops the pump from hunting. With the pump switched off and the return pipe removed from the PRV I noticed that fuel constantly dribbles past the adjuster screw. Having now removed the PRV I can also blow into the PRV and feel a trickle of air past the adjuster screw – is this normal or is there excessive wear between the valve body, the distance piece and the valve. The valve and plunger are clean and appear to be airtight and not sticking; the spring is OK and the strainer is free from dirt. Grateful for any ideas before coughing up yet more cash on a new valve. (P.S. I am going to look for a pressure tester) Many Thanks Ross
  3. Morning all. I have just received my fuel system (Pump, PRV, MU, Injectors and Injector Pipes) back from a refurb and am in the process of refitting. When I removed everything I ensured the engine was at TDC on 1. What I am wondering is how you know where the MU is in terms of timing to ensure it is in the correct position when refitting? Thanks Cal
  4. Hi All My fuel tank woes. So for anyone that doesn’t know I’ve been restoring my 1972 TR6 Pi for, well too many years. It’s never run in my hands but after much work that is getting closer. So to the fuel tank. Clearly before I install the tank, fill it up and fire the old beast up (here's hoping lol) it needs to be in good nick. I now refer to my pic’s cuz its not!!! although i did a light inside test and no obvious holes but they could be coverred by rust and the outside is ok, with no heavy rust. So the question is is it restorable? If yes suggestions of methods or do I just bite the bullet and get a new one and are new ones better in terms of baffles etc, no idea what spec mine is although I can see what I assume is the swirl pot. I’ve seen Ed’s (Bullfire) method and it looks a really good idea but I don’t have a mixer to hand so wondered if there were any other or similar suggestions? The other thought was did the original tanks have any kind of rust inhibiting surface and by using a mechanical rust removal method is that lost and would my newly refubed tank simply rust up again. Esp with modern fuels? From things I’ve read (so no actual experience) coatings are not ideal, but maybe the best modern ones are ok? So thoughts everyone. And what do the professional restorers do, I guess just replace the tank? Cheers Keith
  5. Hi everyone, I'm really looking for help and inspiration to solve a fuel related misfire now that all logical fault finding paths seem to be exhausted! Am running a 1975 CR which has been getting progressively richer during the past few years, so finally, after many attempts at tuning, the exhaust smell prompted me to exchange the metering unit. Then things got a little crazy! I chose the correct MU for the CR engine and had to modify the fuel return as this version of the MU only has the screw fitting, but the car had been built at some time in the past with a push fitting pipe connection. No big issue, and the replacement went really well, respecting the 'special' injection timing position ATDC of the CR engine. The car started easily and was soon running smoothly, at least for the first cautious test run of 30 miles. Then, a few miles into a higher speed run, a misfire developed :-( After limping home and checking / replacing all the usual suspects (new plugs, leads, KMI injectors, fuel pressure at 100psi....) the problem would not go away, and by cracking the injector pipes, I eventually found very little fuel at Number 5. Swapping the injectors confirmed that whatever injector was taken from a running cylinder and attached to Number 5 pipe, it would not spray in that position. The original Nr 5 injector worked well on another cylinder. So suspicion fell on the none return valves in the Banjo unions, and two new Banjos were purchased (KMI) and installed. The Nr 5 pipe was also checked for blockages and this appeared okay. The misfire still persisted! So phone call through the Metering Unit supply chain resulted in the MU being exchanged for a newly refurbished one, which was fitted with due care a couple of days ago. PERFECT :-) .... for a few miles, then the misfire returned :-( Again, fault finding proved that whatever injector (now new ones) was fitted onto Nr 5. it would not spray! But the one taken from Nr 5 works on other cylinders! Swapping the Banjo's was also tried to see whether the problem moved to Number 2 - it stayed on Number 5!!! So any gems of inspiration, or preferably someone saying they know exactly what the problem is, would be appreciated. Living in hope Phil
  6. Grinnal

    SU Carbs

    Hi Folks Can anyone recommend a garage that is good with SU carbs in the Dudley / Wolverhampton area? Thanks Mike
  7. Hi folks, thought id post something about working on my TR...... :-) I have a Bosch 996 pump that was installed in the 1990s by Racetorations and which works perfectly, can run the car right down to empty without a problem. Knowing these pumps are NLA i bought one that came up on ebay a while ago, well couple of years ago probably!, and this week decided it was time for a test. Since ill be messing with the flexible pipes ive bought some new 250psi rated flexible hose, new mounts and clips. Ive also ordered a slightly larger outlet fitting for the pump to better fit the 10mm hose. Removed the old pump yesterday and here they are side by side. The old pump is dirty ! But then so would you be after 20 years located just behind the rear wheel of a TR that actually used :-) I already have a relay and enhanced earthing in the boot, ill renew the foot of wiring to the pump whilst im at it. Will be interesting to see if the nearly new 996 performs any different from the really old 996 Steve
  8. Having finally found an SD card that would work in my LM-2 AFR gauge, I took the car out for a run tonight and recorded some parts. Ignore the RPM figures, I only have an inductive clamp at the moment and it talks nonsense once on the move. Session 1 40mph - 76mph under medium acceleration Session 2 60mph - 70mph, reasonably steady Session 3 slowing down to take 360 on large roundabout, car goes rich then move off again What are your views, too weak at higher speeds I think
  9. Finally finished (as far as these cars are ever finished) BUO and went for a short test drive, only running on 5, located guilty cylinder, injector not pulsing pulled the injector (New) and the valve is just flopping about in the end of the injector stem, disconnected from the injector line and a small plastic and steel cylinder fall out, recon injector obviously need but was there anything else that could have dropped into the cylinder ? the valve its self is still in place so I'm hoping not ATB Graham
  10. Hi everyone. Just discovered that there doesn't appear to be info in the TR4 Workshop Manual on how to adjust the accelerator pedal screw. It is referred to in the Manual - P1.306, Fig 11, Items 23 & 24. However, nothing as to the correct setting. The excess thread sticks out rather a long way from the scuttle panel. See pics attached. Does anyone have a starter figure? Best wishes Willie.
  11. Dear All Please help frustrated of Notts! Car is 1972 TR6 PI In 2016 engine rebuild, new metering unit, gearbox, overdrive, hoses, injectors - the lot! Drove to France and back no problem MOT lapsed in August 2017 but now back on road and last weekend ran very well. Ran rough this morning, under powered, felt like only 5 cylinders working, checked spark plugs and No2 was fouled. Checked injectors and no.1 is fine, nice spray pattern but nothing from no.2, it has no pulse! I pinched the tip of injector and a little fuel dribbled out but then stopped. Pinched the tip several more times but no fuel and no pulsing on the fuel line. Good pulse to all other but not no2. I'm no expert but any advice would be welcome please. many thanks Richard
  12. Hello, still stumbling down the Efi road, one step forward two back, latest problem is fuel supply issue, tracked it down by removing fuel pipe and turning ignition on, fuel pump ran but fuel supply intermittent. Traced to swarf in my new aluminium fuel tank, is there a better way than removing tank (which I have done) swilling with fuel and emptying out and hoping I have got the last bit, as always, thanks for the assistance, Andrew
  13. I am trying to improve my mpg and the carbs have been overhauled. The engine runs and ticks over smoothly. If I lift off the top of the float chamber, how far below the edge of the chamber should the float be resting. Please advise. Thanks Richard
  14. My TR6 1972 PI suffers from overrunning ( continuous) after ignition switch is off. I discovered that the fuel pump remains running after the ignition is off and only stops when I remove battery lead. 1/ If this is the problem where is the power connection error or 2/ Is it simply a pre-inition symptom. My wiring diagram seems to be complied with but looking for options. Regards
  15. So Finally getting round to doing a few jobs. One of the things I have read for years is regarding how you should get a properly designed kit and anything else is dangerous and blah bla. So My 5 has had a bosch pump for 30 years. It doesnt have anything fancy just a 580254973 pump which was superseeded by the 910. It doesnt have a bosch filter just low down in the boot and with the CAV filter and it has done many many miles of hard driving here in the alps without ever missing a beat. So sorry folks when I read stuff about you will damage your car and stuff I am not very convinced as I am living proof. The original system was deigned to feed 6.89bar @72,74 Lph. The Bosch I have feeds 5bar @130 Lph. Just about every Bosch pump feeds 5b (some 3b) Some of the differences are in the consumption and I have no idea why a 910 pulls 1amp more than a 909. Now I am not sure how all this converts as it would appear that the Bosch pressure is too low but what can I say, they work. Maybe someone wiser than me can explain? Anyway back to the point. due to a layup without fuel my pump seal has gone and its leaking so its time to change. I have a 580254933 someone gave me and I am going to try it out as I cant find any info regards the specs, worst case either she wont run at all or will not ave power at top end, unlikely its dangerous as I said before in theory its rare to have pumps that are more powerful than the Lucas. Would be great if someone knows where to find the specs of the 933 (Saab 900 I believe) to see but if not I will try it. For those interested all the info point to vistually all the pumps we are interested in being standardised to the 909 and 910 which have similar specs so all this talk about you need our kit as its the only safe one has me wondering if its not marketing? For those of you interested I have also found a Marelli pump with similar specs at about 1/5th of the Bosh price. Interested to hear from anyone who has actually tried the combinations or knows the effects of changes in Lpm (what most of the Bosch do when specs change) I have been collecting quite a bit of info so for those of you interested here are some links. http://www.tr6pi.com/Lucas%20Petrol%20Injection.pdf Page 8 shows lucas fuel specs http://www.leicestertr.co.uk/Part%20Numbers_files/pumps.pdf Range of pump numbers as published by Peter Winn many years ago. https://www.auto-doc.it/magneti-marelli/7613355 Marrelli pump 6b @120lpm very cheap......It does look identical to my 973 and at that price I am tempted to get one to try. https://www.boschfuelpumps.com/B.htm list of bosh specs Last but not least the 2 lists of Bosch cross reference numbers. Second one is easy to read https://www.boschfuelpumps.com/Bosch%C2%A0Fuel%C2%A0Pumps%C2%A0Cross%C2%A0Reference%C2%A0Part%C2%A0Number%C2%A0Guide%C2%A0.htm http://www.guzzitek.org/documents/injection/Bosch_EFI_References_CrossReferences.pdf If anyone has info on the 933 pump I am interested the last link shows the Saab 900 as a 909 so I am hopeful...So meanwhile I am going of to play Tony P.s. I have been doing a lot of research on oils and do you know that some very well done test charts showing oil resistance I have found actually point to all the chat about zinc and stuff as not being too relevant and not as worrying as some people might think. Gonna post it now separately.
  16. So Finally getting round to doing a few jobs. One of the things I have read for years is regarding how you should get a properly designed kit and anything else is dangerous and blah bla. So My 5 has had a bosch pump for 30 years. It doesnt have anything fancy just a 580254973 pump which was superseeded by the 910. It doesnt have a bosch filter just low down in the boot and with the CAV filter and it has done many many miles of hard driving here in the alps without ever missing a beat. So sorry folks when I read stuff about you will damage your car and stuff I am not very convinced as I am living proof. The original system was deigned to feed 6.89bar @72,74 Lph. The Bosch I have feeds 5bar @130 Lph. Just about every Bosch pump feeds 5b (some 3b) Some of the differences are in the consumption and I have no idea why a 910 pulls 1amp more than a 909. Now I am not sure how all this converts as it would appear that the Bosch pressure is too low but what can I say, they work. Maybe someone wiser than me can explain? Anyway back to the point. due to a layup without fuel my pump seal has gone and its leaking so its time to change. I have a 580254933 someone gave me and I am going to try it out as I cant find any info regards the specs, worst case either she wont run at all or will not ave power at top end, unlikely its dangerous as I said before in theory its rare to have pumps that are more powerful than the Lucas. Would be great if someone knows where to find the specs of the 933 (Saab 900 I believe) to see but if not I will try it. For those interested all the info point to virtually all the pumps we are interested in being standardised to the 909 and 910 which have similar specs so all this talk about you need our kit as its the only safe one has me wondering if its not marketing? For those of you interested I have also found a Marelli pump with similar specs at about 1/5th of the Bosh price. Interested to hear from anyone who has actually tried the combinations or knows the effects of changes in Lpm (what most of the Bosch do when specs change) I have been collecting quite a bit of info so for those of you interested here are some links. http://www.tr6pi.com/Lucas%20Petrol%20Injection.pdf Page 8 shows lucas fuel specs http://www.leicestertr.co.uk/Part%20Numbers_files/pumps.pdf Range of pump numbers as published by Peter Winn many years ago. https://www.auto-doc.it/magneti-marelli/7613355 Marrelli pump 6b @120lpm very cheap......It does look identical to my 973 and at that price I am tempted to get one to try. https://www.boschfuelpumps.com/B.htm list of bosh specs Last but not least the 2 lists of Bosch cross reference numbers. Second one is easy to read https://www.boschfue...er Guide .htm http://www.guzzitek....sReferences.pdf If anyone has info on the 933 pump I am interested the last link shows the Saab 900 as a 909 so I am hopeful...So meanwhile I am going of to play Tony P.s. I have been doing a lot of research on oils and do you know that some very well done test charts showing oil resistance I have found actually point to all the chat about zinc and stuff as not being too relevant and not as worrying as some people might think. Gonna post it now separately.
  17. Hi I have taken apart the metering unit and control unit, since fuel was leaking from the control unit. The fuel seal/control diaphragm is perished. I have order a replacement from Rimmers, part No. 519870 but it does not come with the metal insert at the centre. This pre fitted diaphragm is no longer available. Does anyone know how I swap the centre insert from the old diaphragm to the new one? Do I still need it? I have checked with all the usual suppliers - they state they sell lots of diaphragms without the centre insert but no one knows how to actually fit it! Any help much appreciated. Thanks
  18. So my TR6 has been in bits for nearly 5 years...I am putting it back together now. I have a problem i think with the bosch fuel pump..its whurring away put alas no fuel coming through to engine bay....i was expecting it to work again,,,its all plumbed up as before (it did run 5 years ago ).there is a gallon of petrol in the tank. Any ideas or does it sound like pump has had it ? Len
  19. What us the fast idle cam supposed to do. Mine is preventing the throttle from closing fully and this makes the tick over too high. Can I just remove it and use the choke and the foot pedal? I am sure that SU had a reason for including it. Maybe I am using it wrongly but it can not be adjusted so that the screw is clear of the cam at any point. I am planning to run without it unless someone can help. Thanks Richard
  20. I have a problem with the pistons on my H6 carbs. I am trying very carefully to tune the front carb after changing the needle because the old one was bent. The front piston falls smoothly and there is a metallic click. The rear piston fall much faster and there is a loud metallic click. I have polished the front one and tried it without the damper or the jet in place and it is slow. Which one is correct ? I would like both to be the same. The leaks have gone away and the carbs were overhauled last year. Any advice would be very welcome. Thanks Richard
  21. Good Morning Sages Getting air to the carbs? I believe I have a 4 engine with HS6’s and of course those mahoosive 'neighbour annoying' extractors sitting right underneath. I have the standard cardboard air cowl, so water temps fine and cool when poodling, but it gets very wheezy when hot. I don’t want to wrap/coat as the exhaust as it will be replaced in the nearish future. How are you venting air to the carbs (if you are)? I assume some sort of flanged intake then a hose directing air ? Recommendations, materials? Dia of hose to be effective? Demon weeks have these ? http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/brake-ducts-ducting/revotec-aluminium-air-inlets http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/silicone-ducting-hose/revotec-flexible-ducting-hose-2 Do these Moss heat carb shields work and are they simple to fit, ie, will i fup uck my carb settings by unbolting the carbs? (do I also need to add gaskets) £46 seems a lot for a bent piece of tin ! http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/-357876.html I was going to slide this over the fuel lines as they sit v close to the extractors. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/heat-shielding-protection/design-engineering-cool-tube
  22. Hi, I have a warmed-up 4.6L Range Rover engine with 14CUX EFI (Tornado chip) on top. Its my daily ride and I track the car with the club. Its time to overhaul the fuel delivery system and I'd like to do it right the first go (just for a change). The car goes well up to a little over 3,000 rpm then the power dies off. I'm suspicious that its fuel starved. I have a swirl pot in the boot, the original hard fuel line (which looks too small), a pressure gauge inline and a choice between vacuum or manually-adjustable regulator. I'd be most grateful for advice on how to put this together. What size fuel lines? What type of lines and fittings? Optimal pumps and filter? What is the optimal fuel pressure? There is a narrow aperture pipe at the entrance to the fuel rail that the fuel hose fits onto. Is this a problem? Cheers Michael
  23. Hi, guys. Here I'm going again. So, after successfully changing the lower inner suspension bushings, with the pride of an accomplished job, I hop on the car for a test drive. As it had been some weeks since I last started the car, I primed the fuel pump by pressing upwards on the small lever it has. I am surprised, as the lever goes up but, rather than feeling some resistance as the fuel is pumped, it goes up. And I don't see any fuel coming into the inline fuel filter. I then try to start the car and it doesn't (my TR4A has always started on the first attempt). I checked there was spark, just in case, and everything seemed fine on the ignition department. I then checked the carburettor fuel bowls and the second one was empty, with the first one half full. Pipes to.the fuel bowls unobstructed. I poured fuel in the bowls and car starts immediately, dying after less than a minute. Fuel bowl empty again. I think the issue can be traced to the fuel pump or the fuel hoses from the tank. Now, the front of the car has been for almost a week on axle stands, for the suspension job. Can this be related?. Maybe sludge from.the tank has obstructed the pipes due to the car being with the front up?.the transparent fuel bowl in the pump is full of fuel, with a sediment of sludge, but when I try to open it I get fuel dripping, suggesting that the fuel is getting there from the tank. Can the pump have been damaged fro being dry?. How can I check the pump without filling my garage floor with fuel?
  24. Good Morning Guys, I am looking at changing my choke lead (Triumph TR6 Pi 1970) it has a single cable going to the MU is it possible to change just the inner cable and if so what cable would you recommend. Plus any tips on how to do this, thanks
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