Willie Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Hi everyone. Will someone please advise if it it possible to replace the sump pan with the engine still in place? Can this can be done just by removing the 20 or so screws & bolts? Must the cork "T" pieces [part 059381] also be renewed? Anything else I need to be aware of? The drain aperture thread has stripped somewhat on the current metal sump and I fear either being unable to seal the plug next removal, or worse - that it will decide to fall out!! Best wishes to all for the New Year. Willie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 (edited) Hi Willie Yes you can remove the sump with the engine in situ, and you will need to replace all gaskets that are accessible. But there is little point in fitting the sump if the drain plug thread is stripped. It will either leak, or as you say work it's way out. You can either drill and fit a Helicoil style replacement thread which would be the easiest option, or grind out and weld in a new thread, but you would have to ensure the weld is leak proof, ( I am assuming it is the female sump thread and not the plug that is damaged). When repaired do not over tighten the plug. Regards Kevin Edited December 28, 2014 by boxofbits Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Hi Willie, as per Kevin's comments. The 'T' pieces should not need replacing. The female socket of the drain plug is brazed in place. It should be possible to 'unbraze' it and replace. Getting a new socket could be fun but easy to turn up on a,lathe. It would be more logical to go on the 'buy, sell, TRade' forum and try and get a replacement. Whatever you do make sure that the gasket flange on the sump is flat and even. Inserting the screws causes distortion to the flange which could cause leaking. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewMAshton Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Hello Willie, the problem is getting everything into the right place without dislodging the gasket as you are lying on your back doing everything with your arms above your head, firstly I replaced all my 'normal' bolts with Cap Heads, easier to locate with an Allen Key socket, secondly, I cut the bolt head off two of the old bolts, I screwed these into one end of the block and used them to locate the sump exactly, worked a dream, did it on my own, all fitted and no leaks, cheers, Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 After you get the pan off and clean it up, have a good shoofty at the holes the bolts go through. Mine were a bit distorted and required a bit of panel beating on the flat bit of the vice with a flat ended drift. Assumed this made it less likely to leak when I put it back on with a new cork gasket. (Hasn't leaked.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Willie Posted December 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Very many thanks to you four respondents. As usual, good quality feedback! The helicoil suggestion sounds like the best option! Can this be inserted without removing the sump, or is there a strong likelihood of swarf getting into the sump. Does this offer a permanent fix? Obvious follow-up question - does anyone know the size of helicoil to use? I ask this as I don't understand which part of the tapered plug you would take as the median diameter!! I like the suggestion of cap head screws, especially as the sizes are published in supplier catalogues!! Very best wishes Willie PS... a while back I posted a question about finding the diff serial number. To recall, I have a 10/7/1964 manufactured car but there is no drain plug fitted [just the boss where it could be machined]. I eventually found the serial number stamped haphazardly down the N/S of the casing where the parts book tells you to look on the TR4A! I figure Triumph must have run out of "old" casings and began to fit the 4A design 6 months early!! The serial number is within 50 of the Commission number so looks original, and the ratio both measured and as indicated by the BT prefix make it an unremarkable 3.7:1. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Hi Willie, the hole thread may not be tapered. The plug is tapered BSPT - you would have to measure it and look up on google or or your little black&yellow book. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Hi Willie You will ideally need to remove the sump to carry out a Helicoil repair as some swarf will be deposited on the inside of the thread hole after drilling. You are best to look on ebay for a complete kit for the size required including the correct drill, tap, insertion tool and coils. ( I am not sure what size the thread is but Roger may know?) As Roger said it is easy to distort the sump flange, and again do not overtighten the bolts as the gasket will just squeeze out like a sandwich filler. Refer to the W/M for the correct torque, and bear in mind the plug is a tapered thread. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 28, 2014 Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Personally I wouldnt try helicoiling and just either get a new boss turned up and brazed in or find another sump, if you must then get an ally one but be aware some of them have been found to be porous! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Willie Posted December 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2014 Many thanks to those who have made additional comments. I think I need to go and lie down and think about the choices [oh, and give the "Financial Controller" a few hints as to the worst-case scenario]! Very best wishes to all.....Willie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted December 30, 2014 Report Share Posted December 30, 2014 Fitting a new boss has to be the best solution. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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