Rodbr Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 I have a couple of leaking push rod tube and as I do not want to take the head off to replace them I was wondering if there is a Locktite product that could be poured round the top of the tube after thorough cleaning. I know this subject has been discussed before but I could not find in any success resulted. I have used JB weld for other things and it's sticking ability is super, BUT as it is so hard if a bit broke away inside the rocker cover it could spell disaster. Fitting while the head remains in situ is the main requirement. Any thoughts? rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 30, 2014 Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 Hi Rod, I've not heard of a quick fix. There are a couple of problems. To make any outside treatment work it needs thorough cleaning. You need to get the sealant between the tube and the head on the countersink area. The tubes were originally swaged into position and I would imagine are still well 'shaped' into the hole so getting anything in would be interesting. Also the bottom end of the tube is exposed to slightly pressurised oil mist. The usual attack on the these things is to use a large ball bearing. Remove push rod, place ball bearing on the tube and whack with a hammer - preferably copper or lead. But - the bottom could still leak - or be made to leak with all this banging going on. If you could unpick the swagging , apply sealant then use the ball bearing it may well work. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 I have done this before and it is head off i am afraid. Two ball bearings of the correct diameter (one either side) using a press with sealant and bobs your uncle. Regards Harry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 Hi Rod, I have had some success with this technique. It will work on the top and bottom of the tubes without removing the head. Clean the tubes thoroughly, from the top using celly thinners or brake cleaner. Apply oil resistant cyanoacrylate, it will use capillay action to find its way into the gaps and seal them. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 Hi Graeme, Thanks for your input and further to this I found the following which looks to be remarkable stuff. Q-Bond. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 A 'don't tell anybody' kludge could be araldite (after the good clean mentioned above). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted June 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Prefer a capilliary type fix with less likelyhood for a fragments breaking loose. The Q Bond does seem to fit the bill nicely Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Hi Rod, Loctite do a similar product. The problem you have is getting the stuff down the gap and then for it to set. Capillary action should suck it in but the curing may be iffy. One of the Loctite products has an activator (not sure which one) that you spray on after application - this 'may' work for your tubes - but it needs to be clean. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 When I brought the head for shaving to the machine shop about 6 months ago I also brought new tubes and asked them to replace them as 4 of them were leaking. They did so - albeit crushing one in the press - and told me that they sealed the tubes with one type of Loctite which they proudly waved under my nose: "guarantee-no-leaks". Being genetically incredulous I added some red gasket maker on both face and top of the head and repainted the head with 3 thick coats of ultra high temp paint before assembly. After 6 months, 3/8 are leaking again. Don't know anything about the thermal expansion properties for iron and aluminium but suspect that the main reason for leakages is that tube foils are too thin hence expanding and shrinking at a much faster pace than iron. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted June 8, 2014 Report Share Posted June 8, 2014 (edited) Hi Rod, Loctite do a similar product. The problem you have is getting the stuff down the gap and then for it to set. Capillary action should suck it in but the curing may be iffy. One of the Loctite products has an activator (not sure which one) that you spray on after application - this 'may' work for your tubes - but it needs to be clean. Roger Q bond is a cyanoacrylate [superglue]. Cyanoacrylates (unless gelled) wick readily. Agree must be clean. No need to buy special activator. Just wipe the area with alcohol like meths or surgical spirit, allow to dry a little and then apply the glue. Good idea as a final wipe anyway as the alcohol will be a degreaser. A small mount of moisture also accelerates cure (which is why you can't wash superglue off things and fingers). However with water you are likely to get a whitened glue line. You can mist a small amount of alcohol on after applying the glue if you prefer or even just "huff" on it. The moisture in your breathe will set it off. Mike Edited June 8, 2014 by MikeF Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.