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I am new to this forum so please be gentle with me. The rear springs on my 1975 TR6 are very soft, its got standard shocks and springs I think. I intend to convert the shocks but not until the winter. Can I firm up the rear by changing the springs now and what kind should I get?

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Unless you want a hard ride standard springs are pretty good all round. If you go with lower or higher you may need to change camber. Many have gone for standard springs with mildly updated shocks which improves handling but still gives a decent ride. Moss do lots of options.

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Daz,

 

This is a very personal thing. If you can go to local meetings and blag a few rides or even drives from other members, they will be pleased to tell you what works for them.

 

I fitted 25% uprated springs and kept the original shocks, but I also poly bushed everything except the trailing arms (next project) and I am delighted.

 

But someone else will be along in a minute to say that I have got it completely wrong and have ruined a great car and what you should do is..............

 

No substitute for driving it first, if you can.

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I got 1 inch lowered/uprated springs, KYB uprated gas shocks at the front but plan to keep the lever arm shocks at the rear. I cleaned out the lever arms and filled with fresh oil, will see how they work with the new springs.

 

If these turn out to be too soft I will rather get some uprated lever arms then getting a shock conversion, or maybe try to stiffen up the original lever shocks if possible, just ordered adjustable trailing arm brackets to get the camber right without too much work.

Edited by TRseks
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Slumberland Posture Springs worked for me !!!

 

But I have standard springs, Spax telescopics and new standard bushes and everything is just right for me and the good lady, oh and the Misses

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Daz,

Welcome to the forum.

If the present springs are original they will be tired and fitting new standard springs might be all you need.

But seeing your TVR experience- with proper rear suspensions - you might be wanting to reduce the trailing arm swing more than a little- it assumes all sorts of strange angles. It then gets more complicated. Just uprating the rears will lead to less understeer as the front/rear rate is important, and was originally designed to give understeer. But adding way too much stiffness at rear will lead to oversteer if the front is left standard. You want to aim for neutral.

 

If roll is what you want to control, fit a rear antirollbar and uprate the front too. Perhaps the better idea with potholed roads.

 

Look at threads about tubular shockabsorbers breaking the trailing arm. If you go that route rather than rebuilding the lever arms be certain the available travel in the shocker is at least as large as the trailing arm motion up to compressing the bump stop.

 

Peter

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This is indeed subject to much debate.

 

I'm with Peter that a rear anti roll bar is a great step forward, probably with new but standard rear springs.

 

I've had two tr6s, one without a rear anti roll bar and one with, both on slightly uprated springs and racetorations tele conversions.

 

The current car, with anti roll bar, handles much better than the previous one.

 

Steve

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Thanks for all these replies, I think I will go with David's try before you buy option, I will also have to find the time to read a lot more of the information here on the forum in other threads. Lots to think about. Thanks again

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TR6's that 'Handle' err...and make them 'Neutral'...Hahaha! Where's the fun in that ? :lol:

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Denis, I think you must be a Stones fan.

 

Well, I looked at my watch, it was nine forty-three
And every time I spin, she spins with me
And we rolled, reelin' and a-rockin'
We was reelin' and a-rockin' and rollin' till the break of dawn

 

 

Peter

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Isn't that originally by Chuck Berry?

David,

I think so. The Stones came to mind first.

 

Soft Machine might be the more appropriate group for Denis' 6.

 

Peter

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