Nigel A Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Decided to replace the thermostat and whilst at Moss bought one of there expensive gaskets. It leaked like a sieve. Moss gave me a replacement and this time I spent a lot of time making sure everything was completely clean and flat - fine wet and dry on a sheet of glass, and also cleaned up all the threads. Still a slight weep!! I had also purchased a couple of the old fashioned cheap ones whilst at Moss so in desperation tried one of those. Result - perfect !!!!!!! Did I do something wrong or is there a problem with these supposedly superior quality parts? Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Nope ask the club Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Damson6 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) In my ignorance I wondered what on earth these were! Klingersil thermostat gaskets Price: 95p For everyday road use, your classic MG’s! standard thermostat gasket should be completely trouble-free. However, if you use your car for track days, sprints or other competitions, the extra stresses involved could mean it’s liable to fail. This is where the Klingersil gasket comes in. These gaskets are manufactured from a modern high performance synthetic material that can withstand much higher temperatures (up to 400 degrees Fahrenheit) and extreme pressures, making them ideal for engines that are regularly driven to their limits. Klingersil gaskets are in stock at Moss Europe and priced less than a pound each. Call the sales line on 020 8867 2020 or visit the website at www.moss-europe.co.uk for further information. Edited February 5, 2014 by Damson6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel A Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Just got back from taking my daughter swimming and decided to check for leaks after driving about 5 miles. Slight weeping again Pulling my hair out - don't know what to do Should I use sealant, if so what type or can I just add some K - Seal Cheers Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 No gasket and: http://www.loctite.co.uk/fullproduct-list-loctite-4995.htm?countryCode=uke&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=1000000IXJA Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 The stat top housing is shot Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel A Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Thanks Neil, I'll pick up a new one from Moss tomorrow and if that doesn't work I'll try Alan's suggestion Cheers Nigel PS tried Rogers suggestion in another thread about running on and turned the key really slowly. To my amazement it actually worked. Or was it just a coincidence? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Hi Nigel, it's amazing isn't it. If your engine runs on, then simply turn the Ig key off very slowly and it doesn't run on (usually). Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Nigel I had similar experience, the cheap gaskets from eBay are thicker than the Moss ones. The Moss ones (pale green) leaked and the eBay ones work perfectly (buff colour) Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pinky Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Hi I always sit these items down with auto silicon Place silicon both side of the gasket, lightly bolt down, when the silicon has gone of Torque down and trim around the edge with a razor blade if required Often the metal is pitted with with age, and needs this extra protection As neil has written in detail, the alloy casting could have had its day, Hope this helps pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel A Posted February 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Hi Pinky What torque setting do you use. Can't find a specific figure in the manual so have always guessed and used experience and hopefully haven't over tightened Cheers Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Got an idea that on a previous topic we decided that these can leak up past the bolts becuse the threads dont run in blind holes. This means you need thread sealant. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pinky Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Hi Using silicone you shouldn't need to put any on the thread. I use it on every thing started when I use to play with old British bikes As for the torque setting for the bolt I think they are a 1/4 bolt so what ever that is in the brown bible Don't be to conservative when applying it, putting more on the outer edges than the iner edge Pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 I think this might be what AlanT was referring to - my tale of similar woe and how I fixed it (on a 4A though). http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/40239-thermostat-housing-seeping/?hl=%2Bthermostat+%2Bhousing Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Jones Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 I usually make my own from cereal packets, fit with a smear of blue Hylomar and they don't leak..... Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel A Posted February 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Followed Neil's advice and fitted a new housing (Moss are doing them really cheap at the moment) and decided to have a final try without using sealant. Went for a drive to Portsmouth and back -140 miles Success no leaks and no coolant loss!!!! Was a wimp though and had the hood up! Was worth all the work replacing the thermostat as the temp gauge read normal all the way, it had been reading almost cold except when stuck in traffic. Cheers Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 I'm less than convinced that there is a huge difference in the requirements for a race v road car thermostat gasket. Granted the race car may be a little more prone to overheating but unless a different pressure rad cap is used the pressures they are subjected to should be the same. It may be that the "uprated" one is stiffer and thus less able to seal an imperfect surface. Whist you sound like that you've cleaned up the mating surfaces they still may not be perfectly aligned. A good squidge of Hermetite or other gasket sealant usually is enough. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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