DJF Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 In the process of removing the underseal prior to having the tub shotblasted. I'd welcome opinions/advice from members as to what is the best primer to use. Thanks Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Bondarust http://www.autopaint-pro.co.uk/1l-bonda-rust-primer-121-p.asp everytime. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Boyd Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Once shotblasted prepare the bare metal for primer then I recommend a 2k etch/wash primer. Lechler 'fix-o-dur ec' is a very good product. Obviously with it being a 2k product only use under correct conditions. Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Not a good time of year for blasting. Will rust up v quick when its damp like this. Overnight most likely. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Most good blast companies have the facility to prime as soon as blasted. These guys do my chassis and they immediately paint with a weldable red antirust primer.http://www.chrisbiggs.com/ Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 I'm removing underseal form my tub, I have quite bit of welding to-do floors boot etc . Would I be better doing the metal work first then blasted and primed . Or should I have it blasted to make sure theirs nothing hidden under the paint .P.O. dodged a lot of things. If so what primer would recommend knowing that work still needs to be done Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Boyd Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Blast 1st & etch prime. Repair as necessary then re prime Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DJF Posted October 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Bondarust http://www.autopaint-pro.co.uk/1l-bonda-rust-primer-121-p.asp everytime. Stuart. Thanks Stuart. I thought Bonda Primer might be a candidate. How many coats would you suggest at this stage.....got all bodywork repairs to sort first I notice in the blurb it talks about applying the finishing coat within 6-24 hours or after 7 days..... I'm certainly going to miss that date. Regards David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DJF Posted October 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Once shotblasted prepare the bare metal for primer then I recommend a 2k etch/wash primer. Lechler 'fix-o-dur ec' is a very good product. Obviously with it being a 2k product only use under correct conditions. Tom Thanks Tom i'll look into this product Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 I'm removing underseal form my tub, I have quite bit of welding to-do floors boot etc . Would I be better doing the metal work first then blasted and primed . Or should I have it blasted to make sure theirs nothing hidden under the paint .P.O. dodged a lot of things. If so what primer would recommend knowing that work still needs to be done Mark. Blast first and then Bondarust. Then you can clean off each area to be repaired without having to worry about the rest. Once repaired then bondarust again. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Thanks Stuart. I thought Bonda Primer might be a candidate. How many coats would you suggest at this stage.....got all bodywork repairs to sort first I notice in the blurb it talks about applying the finishing coat within 6-24 hours or after 7 days..... I'm certainly going to miss that date. Regards David I have found if you thin it in the ratio 60 paint/40 ordinary cellulose thinners and then spray over a couple of coats you can repaint with anything after drying overnight or in 6mths it doesnt make any difference. Its very versatile. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Once shotblasted prepare the bare metal for primer then I recommend a 2k etch/wash primer. Lechler 'fix-o-dur ec' is a very good product. Obviously with it being a 2k product only use under correct conditions. Tom You must have proper closed circuit breathing apparatus and good extraction to safely use any 2K products. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Thanks Stuart for the advice. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 PS and that goes for you to Stiggy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Boyd Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 You must have proper closed circuit breathing apparatus and good extraction to safely use any 2K products. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JPD Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 I'd heard that primer will absorb moisture over time if it's not overpainted - may or not be true? Partly because of that, but mainly because my tub is so rusty that if I got it blasted it would probably disentegrate, I'm doing the major repairs first before blasting. Once I've got some strength in it then I'll get it blasted and primed, then do any other minor repairs that are needed before final prep for paint. I guess it just depends how bad the tub is to start with Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Hi Jeff, most ordinary primers (celly or acrilyc) are porous. But Bondarust and 2K provide quite a good seal. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Bonda primer is based upon either a water activated or air activated resin and one reason why it works so well is that it completely seals the surface. You can apply it to rusty surfaces that have been wire brushed to remove the loose rust and it will still be very effective. Rgds Ian PS it can be a problem getting paint to stick to it. It's recommended that you roughen the surface before over painting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Question for Stuart. Reading the above, do you spray the Bonda Primer over bare metal OR/and etch primer, and if its over bare metal, does it act as an etch, i.e. can you simply carry on with colour? John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 As long as the metal is keyed i.e. scotched/flatted/blasted or whatever to give a key and spirit wiped to remove any grease etc then spray/brush the Bonda prime first then seam seal all the joints/butt edges etc. Once dry then scuff off/scotch/180 dry rub down and then prime and paint. For underneath I do Bondaprime/sealer/stonechip/primer/topcoat/waxoyl. That way they are bomb proof! (You do need to be careful with some rust removal treatments with etch primers as they can be non compatible and it wont stick, Bondarust is a lot more compatable.) Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Blasting won't remove ALL rust, so something to clean up the residual, like acid etch primer. But any comments on Phosphoric acid as a first coating/treatment? Extremely cheap as "milk stone remover" from a farmers' supplier. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Hi John, rust is a devil to remove. If you blast the component it affects the surface. Any intergranular rusting will not be touched. If you use any of the converters - Kurust etc - they only affect the point of contact (surface) so again intergranular will not be killed. The various rust removers (DeOxC, Phosy, etc) will go deeper but need to be agitated. They may go deep enough, but..... Removing/killing all the surface rust and then coating with a sealer type coating - BondaRust, POR15 etc - will rob any small pockets (intergranular and seams to an extent) of oxygen and either stop or significantly slow the process down. Mild steel wants to oxidise - you will not stop it. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 (edited) Stuart/Roger thanks for that, VERY much appreciated. John. Edited October 23, 2013 by john Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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