Pkitson Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Is it necessary to have the special tool to remove the rear hub on the Girling back axle to replace the oil seal, or is there a way round it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike ellis Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Do a search on this forum for 'Speedi sleeve' and you will find all you need Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigmalcy Posted October 10, 2013 Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 (edited) To replace the oil seal in the axle tube, you only need to remove the halfshaft from the rear axle. The hub will come out with the halfshaft and there's no need to remove the hub from the halfshaft if you're only replacing the oil seal in the axle. Removing the halfshaft from the rear axle requires 6 small bolts to be unscrewed from behind the axle end flange (the heads of the bolts face in towards the differential). The halfshaft should slide out after these are removed. If you're replacing the oil seal in the bearing carrier, then you will need to pull the hub off the halfshaft (or press the halfshaft out of the hub). When I did this i had to take it to an engineering workshop where a 30T press was used to separate the hub from the shaft. The 'special' tool often isn't man enough from what i've heard. Hope that helps. PS - in case you don't know, the speedi sleeves referred to above are for repairing your halfshafts if they are worn or pitted at the inner seal rubbing point. Edited October 10, 2013 by bigmalcy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pkitson Posted October 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2013 Thanks for the replies, assuming no rain tomorrow I will try this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigmalcy Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Forgot to mention that removing the axle tube seals themselves can be a pain and may require the use of an oil seal puller... and the 6 small bolts can be tight / worn / awkward to get at so it's one of those jobs that sounds simple but can end up taking time. Good luck! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Be careful if you have to press the hubs off the axles. Often it needs massive pressure and the hub gets distorted. Make sure a collar is fitted the the hub to spread the load when pressing off. Prepare for the big bang when it lets go. Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted October 11, 2013 Report Share Posted October 11, 2013 Traditionally Tr ists have removed the axle tube seals in the usual fashion - cold chisel and some serious blows to split them- leaving wonderful deep scars which promote even more oil leaks. Whilst in England a few years ago I came across a wonderful tool (I think in Halfords) with what is best described as a parrots beak which enables you to remove the seals without any butchery. I too have very recently gone down the SKF speedi sleeve route and have no leaks to report after 3 months james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted October 12, 2013 Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 If you have gone as far as removing the half shaft you must use the speedi sleeve. This inexpensive and cured my oil seal failre which had been going on for over 20 years. It has been dry ever since. Good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 12, 2013 Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 Traditionally Tr ists have removed the axle tube seals in the usual fashion - cold chisel and some serious blows to split them- leaving wonderful deep scars which promote even more oil leaks. Whilst in England a few years ago I came across a wonderful tool (I think in Halfords) with what is best described as a parrots beak which enables you to remove the seals without any butchery. I too have very recently gone down the SKF speedi sleeve route and have no leaks to report after 3 months james Hi James, Do you mean like this one Moss have on their ebay clearance? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-SEAL-PULLER-MTR1002-/181219047624?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a317f38c8 Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 12, 2013 Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 Or this one, the same but cheaper http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVESAL-SEAL-PULLER-0-OIL-RING-PULLER-REMOVER-RUBBER-GASKETS-HEAVY-DUTY/180824362659?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D18221%26meid%3D1935907864818915934%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D8339%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D181219047624%26 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike ellis Posted October 12, 2013 Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 You may get what you pay for. I bought a Silverline seal puller, instead of pulling out the seal the shaft snapped in half. Got a refund without quibble or even returning the item. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted October 12, 2013 Report Share Posted October 12, 2013 Do you mean like this one Moss have on their ebay clearance? http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a317f38c8 Cheers Peter W Thats's the one or summat very similiar james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 8, 2022 Report Share Posted July 8, 2022 Ok so having found this thread, I need to change the outer seal on my "Girling" axle as grease is getting though to the brakes. I have heard that it's not a good idea to use a garage press to separate hub from stub axle on the IRS cars, does the same apply to solid axle types ? Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 8, 2022 Report Share Posted July 8, 2022 Solid axle ones are fine to split, we have done several though they do take a fair bit of force so you do need to support the hub flange properly. I do have the correct Churchill tool if you want to borrow it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 8, 2022 Report Share Posted July 8, 2022 Thank you Stuart, Peter W has offered to lend me his, & he is a bit closer ! Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 8, 2022 Report Share Posted July 8, 2022 22 minutes ago, Lebro said: Thank you Stuart, Peter W has offered to lend me his, & he is a bit closer ! Bob Perfect, they do take some winding up to get them to release. FWIW and I`m not saying you have but a lot of the time grease coming through onto the linings was due to over enthusiastic greasing of the axle outer end grease nipple. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 8, 2022 Report Share Posted July 8, 2022 I'm sure you are right, & I have not greased the bearings for some time now. The ammount of grease getting through is less each time I look, but I guess the seal has distorted, & realy needs to be renewed. Will do the inner one as well while the shaft is out. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted July 8, 2022 Report Share Posted July 8, 2022 Change the bearings while you’re in there, Bob. I sarted with these seals in mind and found the bearing on one side was on the way out. - after 61 years james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 8, 2022 Report Share Posted July 8, 2022 Speedi Sleeve - Made by SKF to repair worn seal areas of shafts etc. 1. Half Shaft Girling solid axle. TR3/3A/3B/4/4A . where the axle tube seal wears on the axle shaft. - SKF 99131 or SKF CR 99131 (CR is uprated item) 2. Pinion Drive Flange on the nose of the axle/diff. TR2/3/3A/3B/4/4A/4A IRS/250/5/6. - SKF 99149 or SKF CR 99149 (CR is uprated item) (Moss 520-500) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 8, 2022 Report Share Posted July 8, 2022 Thanks Peter, noted & saved. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 23, 2022 Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 OK so I finally got round to trying to separate the hub from the shaft. using Peter's puller I have done to following: Removed split pin & nut, cleaned out the split pin hole (which by the way is 9/64" dia) found a piece of piano wire to fit, & cut to length such that it does not quite foul the thread of the nut when screwed back on. Replaced the nut the "wrong" way round to support the axle thread, fitted the puller, using original wheel nuts, tighened them up as much as I dare. then wound in the central screw. have now got it about as tight as I dare (don't want to strip the thread on it) using extended tommy bar (see photo) & also my impact wrench. clobbered the end of the screw in between each tightening effort with a club hammer. no movement at all. Any ideas ?? Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 23, 2022 Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 Not a daft question. You did remove the washer from under the slotted nut so there is a gap from the nut to the hub flange? ‘Course you did. I’d lean on the Tommy bar again. Give the end of the tool a whack with a big club hammer. I have resorted to a sledge hammer before now. With the pressure still loaded on the tool screw ….. You may get a result if you strike the front of the tool flange half way between two wheel nut holes. Along the axis of the half shaft thus ‘bending’ the drive flange. I use a big brass drift and a club hammer. The distortion of the flange on the taper may release it. That is the method we adopted for consistent results when splitting IRS hubs. Resorting to oxy/acetylene is also done but you need to heat the flange with the tool removed, then when heat soaked refit and load up the tool, and whack. That is a reliable method but you need to work quickly with gloves. Heating the tool is not recommended. Go to bed and try again tomorrow. Leave with pressure on. Tighten again, whack again. I have had shafts that refused to split with that tool and so I gave up. The tool is more difficult to replace than it is to get hold of a spare half shaft assy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 23, 2022 Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 (edited) Thanks for that Peter. I have had an idea in the meantime, with the 4 wheel nuts tightened up, striking the tool to push the shaft inwards is also pushing the tool body inwards (ok there will be some slack in the thread, but not much) I could try slackening the wheel nuts slightly to make a small gap between tool & flange. tighten up the tool as before, but now when the tool's screw is struck the shaft can move inwards without pulling the flange with it ? Just a thought Bob. P.S. I did not notice any washer, but there is certainly a gap between nut & hub ! Edited December 23, 2022 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 23, 2022 Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 When we do them Bob theyre done at Chris place and he drops them tool end down into his pit so a drop of about 6ft, the impact works every time. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 23, 2022 Report Share Posted December 23, 2022 Ha Ha yes, I guess that would work. however that would mean taking the axle out, which is not on my "to do at this time" list. Anyway, it is now separated - hurra ! I think it had split a while ago, I just had not noticed, I was expecting some movement after hitting it, but there was none. I went back to it to remove the tool to check whether there was a washer there or not, and as I slackened off the tool, it all went loose. so I guess you need to slacken it off between tries to see if it has worked. Will do that when I do the other side. The offside is not showing any problem with grease getting through, but while I have the tool I may as well change the seal (which I have) I also have the inner seals, but I won't need the special tool to get to those, so they can wait. As you can see grease was certainly getting through it ! Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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