colin_c Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Hi Car is on SORN, winter project started. It's a '74 UK car. The mechanicals are sound (famous last words) so the plan is to freshen up the 'tired' interior & change interior to black .... 1) replace all sound-deadening, carpets, trim, door cards, rear bulkead cover, glove-box 2) new dash fascia 3) refurb dash-top and crash pads, 4) re-cover existing cloth MX5 seats with matching vinyl, including taking out as much of the seat-base padding to lower as much as possible 5) refurb all gauges 6) renew (and re-connect !) all heater hoses and under-dash vents 7) replace one of the wiper-wheel boxes 8) remove multi-air horns installed and get the steering column horn working again 9) replace window rubbers/seals on both doors 10) general tidy-up of wiring 11) install a wide (over wheel arch) roll-bar/cage for safety - unsure yet of implication on seat widths, existing soft-top, and how far forward into the cabin to bring it. Also want to address slight whiff of fuel within boot. Any advice about best route (refurb or replace) and what else to consider doing whilst the interior is out is appreciated. Recommended suppliers for any of the above welcome. I have the brown-book, and so far so good. Haven't yet read the details for windscreen removal, but understand that's needed to remove the dash-top. Considering the LED bulb option for the gauges. I already have some questions about the floor pan, and the rear parcel shelf bolts - I'll post some photos soon. Thanks in advance Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Yes, the screen will have to come off to redo the dash top. I used the TR Shop item and it fitted perfectly and I didn't need to use any glue so no mess. Don't use an LED bulb for the generator/alternator warning light. It won't pass enough current to energise the alternator field. Replace both wiper boxes, you don't want to be in there more than is necessary. Others will no doubt add more... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cmdr19 Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 If you are redoing your MX5 seats,look up 'leatherseats.com' on ebay under 'MIata seat covers'. I went for the leatherette type and they are superb.Actually look and feel like leather (fools everyone who's looloursoked at them) and the options - piping, stitching, colours will have you scratching your head while you try and make your mind up! Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badshead Posted October 30, 2012 Report Share Posted October 30, 2012 Colin A couple of suggestions.... While you've got the dash fascia off, consider wiring in a hazard warning switch and/or 12v ancilliary socket. The socket could utilise in the useless rheostat position in the dash and the lucas style hazard switch can be fitted neatly between the speedo & rev counter. If you're taking the gearbox tunnel out, adapt the o/d wiring to include a relay so you can easily use a logic/momentary switch. Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR674 Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Colin After getting close to the point of becoming a petrol sniffing drug addict, I just replaced all the rubber fuel hoses in the boot, whether knacker or not and very little smell now. If left for a week or so, there is a slight fuel smell, but most likely mine is from the Lucas pump itself. Regards Craig Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin_c Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 (edited) Thanks all for your suggestions. Pete - I will get in touch with the TRShop - they seem to get good all-round reports. I agree, both wiper wheel boxes - can't beleive how difficult it is to get into that space. Mike - I will take a look at your suggested re-trimmer if recommended - I also have a local company (Intatrim) who did the interior for a previous car (non-TR) and who are pricing up the seat refurb and other items (door cards etc) to match. Bill - the car already with a hazard switch located under the dash - I didn't know this wasn't standard. The option of replacing the rheostat is a good one (with a 12v socket, always useful). It's only by looking at the dash in detail that I see there are minor variations on layout of gauges/switches - something to watch out for if ordering a replacement. The gearbox tunnel is coming out because it needs to be re-bedded, there's a weep of fluid coming through - I will need to come back for more advice on o/d wiring upgrade. Craig - I think I saw an ad in the TRAction mag recently regarding upgrading fuel hoses (possibly to braided, I can't recall). Yes, replace all. Car has a bosch fuel pump - this could still be the cause of a whiff of fuel as per the Lucas - difficult to track it down. Colin Edited October 31, 2012 by colin_c Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Goldthorpe Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 (edited) Your H frame might have two holes already in it either side of the interior light switch (this TR4 picture http://static2.demot...gow_1420804.jpg shows it well with two switches either side of the gear knob). I put my hazard switch in the hole nearest the driver and the power socket in t'other hole and left the rheostat where it was - had I planned to keep the car, that would probably have been replaced with something like a start button or a clock :-) Should you get a wish to return to originality, these holes can be covered again and no one would be any the wiser. Incidently, wiring a hazard switch was really easy - all the piggyback connections were already there in my '73 car. Edited October 31, 2012 by Mike Goldthorpe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin_c Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Thanks Mike. I'll inspect the H-frame tomorrow - it currently doesn't have the switches you describe - I think it's been recovered at some point. I'd like to replace the rheostat with something that provides a useful function. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Harvey Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 Hi Colin, The rheostat switch on my car has been replaced with a PROSTART button from TRGB. Very handy and comes with wiring diagram etc. Regards John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin_c Posted November 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 That sounds the ticket, thanks John. Windscreen surround, dash-top, steering column and metal dash frame to be taken out tomorrow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 Be careful removing the metal dash. It can be a bit bendy in the middle if its anything like the 4A one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ghianightmare Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Colin, I've just had a new wooden made (can't get new ones shipped to Ireland from UK) and will pick it up tomorrow. I had considered refurbishing the existing one and as I guy I work with makes furniture as a hobby, I asked him for advice on stripping the old varnish off. He said he would ask a mate of his who was a full time cabinet maker. It turns out that Andy the cabinet maker had refurbished a TR6 dash previously. So I took my dash to him. He gave me 2 options - the first was to strip, re veneer and re lacquer mine with a guide cost of €330 or €370 depending on the quality of the lacquer finish I wanted. The second option was for him to make a new one using reclaimed engineered floor board (5mm ply + 5mm ply + 5 mm wood Plained down to correct thickness. The wood on the board I choose was smoked oak which prior to staining was a lovely beige colour. His advice was not too lacquer, but to use Danish oil and bees wax as it is easy to repair if it gets damaged. Cost is max €300. So apart from the preferable pricing, I went with option 2 as the wood is 5mm, so it can easily be stripped and sanded and restained. It is also unique! Just letting you know that there is an alternative to having yours re veneered or buying one off the shelf. It means you are not limited by the position of the original holes. I have rebuilt my rheostat as I like having the option to set the brightness of the instrument lights. My winter project is similar to yours 1. overhaul brake system - looks like I need a new/rebuilt servo & Master cylinder 2. Overhaul the wiring - install relays for headlights and relay for main ignition feed to components 3. Replace front dampers 4. Overhaul rear dampers 5. Have the 4 centre instruments rebuilt - sent to thegaugeshop.com last week 6. Adjust the doors to sit flush 7. Install radio 8. Install new wiper bush and washer kit 9. Install hazzard switch. Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin_c Posted November 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Do you have any photos of your bespoke dash ? I'd just like some lights showing on my gauges ! Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ghianightmare Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Will post photos tomorrow when I get it back Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin_c Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Unable to get windscreen frame to budge. Dash top fixings removed, dash pillar bolts removed, pillar bracket bolts slackened. An amount of equal force applied to each side but only a mm or 2 of movement which may simply be due to movement of brackets. I expected it to simply slide out Am I missing something ? Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Did you mean pillar nuts removed? You might need to soak the mounting tubes in penetrating fluid overnight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ghianightmare Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Here is photo of new dash beside old. Very different to what is available off the shelf and I am really pleased with it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Unable to get windscreen frame to budge. Dash top fixings removed, dash pillar bolts removed, pillar bracket bolts slackened. An amount of equal force applied to each side but only a mm or 2 of movement which may simply be due to movement of brackets. I expected it to simply slide out Am I missing something ? Colin If you look up at the mounting brackets (Probably need a mirror and a torch unless you have a double jointed neck!) you will notice they are split so a lever/large screwdriver can be used to pry them apart slightly which will help you to move the tubes. It will be obvious once you look. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 Here is photo of new dash beside old. Very different to what is available off the shelf and I am really pleased with it. Nice Job,Good to see a nice bit of Grain. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 Be slightly careful when "easing" the windscreen frame out. I managed to snap mine. Mind you it was rusted out and I had a rust free replacement. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin_c Posted December 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 Haven't posted an update for a while - thanks for all advice so far. Dash, dash-top, windscreen etc removed. Disappointingly (because externally the car looks terrific) this has exposed problem rust areas which need attention - I'll attempt to attach a couple of pictures to help. Areas of rust/perforation found behind the offside windscreeen bracket (exhibit 1 hopefully) and around the top of the front bulkhead. Appreciate advice how best to address. The floor pans look like they've been subjected to patching at some point - they've also been covered in a POR-like sealant so it's hard to tell exactly what's not being seen. The joins between the floor pans and sills/wings look uneven so I assume this is covering rust. I'll stick a few photos up - appreciate comments regarding what (else) trained-eyes can see and recommend. Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted December 31, 2012 Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 Disappointingly (because externally the car looks terrific) this has exposed problem rust areas which need attention Colin, Clearly you will need to cut out the rust and fabricate sections to fit, but more worryingly is that rust in these araea is usually an indicator to the condition of the rest of the car - I would suggest running a magnet over the body and inspecting the chassis thoroughly before going any further. What happens to your door gaps when you jack the car up - do the doors stick or are otherwise difficulty to open? How long have you had this car and what do you know of its history? Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin_c Posted December 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 Andrew Owned the car since June - bought the car from a club member and it comes with a fair amount of history stretching back ~ 25 years - car has had lots of mechanical & chassis strengthening done at TR Enterprises over the past 7 or so years, had a bare metal respray in 2005 (not at TR Ent.). I have had it up on the jack once - but not too long seeing the widening door gap. Had the car up in the air at TR Enterprises not long after I got it - nothing of any immediate concern. Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted December 31, 2012 Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 Colin, The widening door gap could be a concern dependant on where you placed the jack? But given the car's known history hopefully the rest of the car is sorted and you've been left with the nasty bits - I'd still run a magnet over the body, particularly around the bulkhead, scuttle and top of the A posts. Nonetheless, it looks like a dash out job to fix properly, but Stuart is your man for that advice. Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
julianhensman Posted December 31, 2012 Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 (edited) Hi. Whilst you have your dash out, I suggest you could improve your gauge illumination massively by painting the inside of the cases gloss white (white hammerite will do the job). It's a bit fiddly (you will need a very fine paint brush) and you do have to be VERY careful not to damage the needles, but the difference is tremendous. See pics below: 1) with tacho done and speedo not yet done, 2) with both done (note there is a bit of condensation on the glass on these bit it soon went). 1) 2) Jules Edited December 31, 2012 by julianhensman Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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