Jump to content

Alloy rocker cover - what to look for.


Recommended Posts

I'm thinking about replacing my TR's rocker cover. I'm currently looking for an alloy version. One of the larger Dutch suppliers has a large stock and sells them (rather) cheaply.

 

Somewhere in its life, my 3A received an early TR4 engine (very low #) and has a no pipe sticking out on the RH side. The oil filler cap is a push on type with a mesh wire on the inside of the cap.

 

Hence my question: what to look for when I decide to buy an alloy rocker cover (off course: all other advise is welcome too!)

 

Menno

 

P1020565.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Menno ~

 

I fitted a Moss alloy rocker cover to my 3A and this proved to be of inferior casting with quite a few small 'blow' holes at the top between the ribs which caused oil leaks! They replaced it for me and all was then well. I have now painted the inside

of the cover with 'Glyptal' oil resistant paint which seals any imperfections and dries to a nice smooth finish ~

highly recommended!

 

Tom.

Link to post
Share on other sites

A neoprene seal will work well in avoiding oil leaks from the rocker cover, but the pressure

from the crankcase still has to go somewhere.

 

Early TR4 engines still had the tube breather on the side of the engine, but this was deemed

not adequate (by the factory) for relieving the pressure, hence the later addition of a vented

rocker cover.

 

Running a TR engine with no side vent, only a vented oil filler cap, is guaranteed to lead to

oil leaks from anywhere and everywhere.

 

With your setup, I think the side breather is absolutely essential and a vented rocker cover

very desirable.

 

Menno - I'm sure you are concerned about neatness within your engine bay, as am I.

PM me with your email address and I'll send a photo of my solution. Neat (IMO) albeit

with webers, but the idea could easily be adapted to your setup.

 

AlanR

Edited by TR 2100
Link to post
Share on other sites
and has a no pipe sticking out on the RH side...
... of the currently installed cover. (I had to clarify that). There is -off course- a breather pipe on the lower LH side, just below the fuel pump.

So, if I understand you correctly, it's best to get a cover with a short end pipe sticking out on the RH side, pointing towards the carbs. If so, there's another question on the horizon: how does one 'catch' the oily fumes from that cover breather?

 

Menno

Edited by Menno van Rij
Link to post
Share on other sites

Menno,

 

Your engine bay looks fabulous, but . . . . No air cleaners?

 

Understood that you DO have the standard crankcase breather pipe.

And that's an early TR4 inlet manifold, isn't it?

 

Not sure if it's desirable to connect a rocker breather there, maybe

others will comment, but you need more than just a short stub pipe

out of the rocker, or it will drip/leak oil for sure.

 

I didn't want a breather on my rocker cover (beyond the standard one)

but my "garage" (TR Enterprises) insisted it was essential. I took their

advice and together we came up with a neat solution, based on the

TR4A setup with the beather pipe leading into the carbs.

 

AlanR

Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought an Offenhauser from the States. It's beautifully made, good to look at and it renders tappets inaudible.

 

 

I've looking at that one too. Macy's Garages sells them for just over $ 350 / 200 euros, which is a fair price compared witht Moss items. But Macy's quote of the shipment costs are a staggering $125/ 100 euros! If you know a cheaper way, I'll very interested to know!

 

Menno

Edited by Menno van Rij
Link to post
Share on other sites

As my car is a TR4, the filler on the alloy rocker cover is sealed (no breather). The cover has a pipe sticking out of the right side (i.e. towards the carburettors). To this pipe, I have attached a length of rubber hose, and the hose is then is routed over the top of the cover, down the left side of the engine, past the fuel pump and ends alongside the normal crankcase breather, to which it is clipped with a cable tie.

 

This arrangement means that I have breathing from both crankcase and rocker cover, so the pressure inside tthe rocker cover is as near atmosheric as one can get.

 

The American who manufactures the neoprene rocker cover gaskets told me at the 2010 IWE that his product should NOT be used with an alloy cover, as such covers have no lip (they are machined flat) and so the gasket could be forced out of position and thereby permit oil leakage. However, I had by then been using one of his gaskets for a number of years (since 1998 - just checked) - and still am using that same gasket (and I don't use any adhesive, by the way)! If you avoid pressurisation of the inside of the rocker cover, the gasket will stay in place.

 

Ian Cornish

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

I've looking at that one too. Macy's Garages sells them for just over $ 350 / 200 euros, which is a fair price compared witht Moss items. But Macy's quote of the shipment costs are a staggering $125/ 100 euros! If you know a cheaper way, I'll very interested to know!

 

Menno

 

 

Menno. Contact Mark at Macy's ... The default shipping is some sort of error that occurs with non-US orders. They will sort out a proper quote for shipping. Cheers, Mike

Link to post
Share on other sites

Could I just get some views on the most appropriate 'breathing' set up in the light of above comments?

 

My crankcase breather has been replaced with a plug although it seems to have a small hole (about 1/8th" diameter) in it. The rocker cover is alloy, has a non-vented cap but as described above, a small pipe on the left side from which a hose leads to a small catch tank with a mushroom filter, presumably to collect the oil mist. There are a number of leaks where the rocker cover and other components attach to the block but nothing I have thought serious on the assumption that most of these engines leak a little bit and oil consumption is modest.

 

Question - should I reinstall the crank breather? The guys who rebuilt the car originally seemed to know what they were doing in most respects and the car drives well.

 

PS the block is not the original one although I have yet to determine what it is.

 

Miles

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dare we ask what it cost Menno?

Stuart.

 

 

$ 259.00, shipment to Holland $ 72.50. Makes 254 euros. Given the fact that the Dutch seller wants 175 euros including shipment, there's still 79 euros between the two. But, in postings above, several owners of the more common alloy cover have/had their doubts about the quality. That's why I opt for the more expensive cover. (And it's rare)

 

Menno

Link to post
Share on other sites

$ 259.00, shipment to Holland $ 72.50. Makes 254 euros. Given the fact that the Dutch seller wants 175 euros including shipment, there's still 79 euros between the two. But, in postings above, several owners of the more common alloy cover have/had their doubts about the quality. That's why I opt for the more expensive cover. (And it's rare)

 

Menno

 

So roughly the same as a Racetorations one by the time you have paid the duty on it.

Still a lot of money really so Im glad my 2 already has a period Amco one on it.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.