Jersey Royal Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 (edited) Hi All, One step forward and two steps back!! Thats how it feels today. Have been waiting for new longer studs and axle oil seals. So with longer studs fitted and axle oil seals in place, put some grease in outer bearing, in go the shafts, all bolted up. I then pumped in some grease and fitted the road wheel. I spun the wheel and guess what, a rumbling from the hub, i have had this concern for a little while, but cant ever recall spinning the wheel before i took it all to bits. There was plenty of grease in the bearing, and that feels smooth when turned by hand(with wheel of), there is only one bearing? On Inspection when i initialy removed the shaft the bearing looked dry, certainly hasnt been greased in a long while., which is why its as it is now.. The existing oil seal i replaced was the leather type, and i dont think this axle has had any attention in long while. So its seems most probable that the bearing in the hub need replacement. From what i gather this requires special tools which are unlikely to be found on my rock. Any ideas? Thanks Guy Edited October 13, 2011 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 Guy, The problem with replacing the bearing in the hub is getting the hub off the half shaft. It is a taper with a rectangular key and if it is anythiing like mine it needs a 50t press to remove it Once you have removed the hub its a breeze. And when you take it to your local motor engineers for them to press the hub off, make sure they properly support it otherwise you end up with bent flanges - how do I know this? Search the sidescreen forum for hubs and it's about the 9th post down. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 (edited) Options as i see it are See if i can find some one localy to take hub apart, there is a couple of machine shops, and a classic car resto firm. Sent the shafts and hub to Uk , thought about Ctm but not spoken to them yet, frieght may be pricey. Obtain two Girling shafts with hubs in Uk and have them refurbed and sent to Jersey. Thanks for your help Cheers Guy Edit. Heres the thread Ian was refering too http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=27058&st=0&p=197080&hl=hubs&fromsearch=1&&do=findComment&comment=197080 I have looked at Roger Williams book where he shows a hub being taken apart. I also note Willie F method in the above thread. So once its all apart, new oil seal fitted and bearing fitted to shaft, how is the rest of the hub fiitted ? Is it just the case of fitting the rest of the hub and tightening up the end bolt.??? Edited October 14, 2011 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 (edited) Hi All, Not had alot of spare time today to deal with the hubs. But i can see why so many restorations big or small get unfinished. Been stuck on my Rock is a big dissadvantage with regard to restoration work. I cant just chuck the hubs in the car and head of to whomever and have them sorted out. I recall the paperwork and grief i encounted, just to send my 6 gearbox for a rebuild, main problem was actually getting it through Uk customs (they see it as a way to avoid paying VAT) so the box had to have a temporary importation licence. Then when it came back here i had to prove to Local customs that i had sent it to the Uk for repair in the first place. Total Boll****. I have tried to loosen the large nut on the end and its not having it. Heres some good info i found while seraching the net. https://docs.google....RlMzI3&hl=en_US So am slightly peeved today , so i put the wheels back on the 3 , lowered her to the floor , and pushed her out into the sunshine and fresh air, think she feels better for it. Front end is high as engine and box are still out, awaiting parts. Cheers Guy Edit. Have finaly loosened the large nut, car on its wheels, hand brake applied, socket on large 4 ft bar. Ho rah Edited October 14, 2011 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Hi Guy Nice to hear you day went well in the end Cheers Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 (edited) Hi Mike, Thanks Tip of the iceburg. Just spoken to a friend of mine, who works in the engineering dept at Jersey Airport. Guess what he has access to a fifty ton press, so could be promising Need to work out a plan of action, and make sure i understand the process properly, things like supporting the flange. Cheers Guy Edited October 14, 2011 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Dont forget what I said to you about supporting the hub so it stays flat Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Yup, i remember, thinking about making up a substantial plywood support. Thanks for that tip Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Please read this before you let the bloke with the 50 ton press loose on your axle shaft. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=30671&hl=churchill&fromsearch=1 PM me if he bends the flange as I have a spare Girling shaft and hub that have been split Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Hi Peter, I hadnt searched on the Tr4 section, so that was a usefull thread to read. I will update this thread with progress, but dont think anything is going to happen within the next few days, i should get New Bearings and oil seals , and fully understand the stripping and re installation procedures. So you will know if we bend the flange Thanks GUY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Here is a Pdf on how to make a hub puller for a Tr3. I aint that clever. https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B2H2NJt34OffOTIyYmQ4MzgtNDM0Yy00OTY1LTljNzEtZDMyNjM5OWFkZTQ4&hl=en May be useful for someone in the future. I reckon the club should own a Churchill Tool, and they could hire it out, to people like me. Would be a great benefit to all members There you go Alan F , Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Guy Great PDF, the tool should not be too difficult to make using standard pipe flanges available from a large plumbing supply company or an engineering firm specialsing in industrial pipework. Cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Hi fella's, does this apply to a TR2 hub as well?. Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Lay Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Tony, if it's still got a lockheed axle no! No special tools needed, that's why I am not going to swap for a girling. Have collected a few spare half shafts under the usual premis if you have a spare you won't need it. Famous last words . Nigel (with TS952) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Hi All, I am fortunate to have been offered a Churchill Tool to borrow, and will be on its way early next week. Thanks John. So am looking at ordering new bearings and oil seals for the hub. I have looked at Moss there bearing is £50, where as Revingtons Trs is £30 So there is a twenty quid difference on each bearing. Does anyone have an experience of these bearings, or recomendation. Moss part ref100 http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=2354#top Revington Tr http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/search.asp?CarType=TR3&SearchText=ghb166&submit.x=12&submit.y=13 Which is best? Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 My thoughts The Revington part will be made in the Far East, the Moss one will probably be SKF or Timken. How many miles are you going to do annually? If the Revington ones were no good they would have a queue of dissatisfied customers and they would have to stop selling them. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 (edited) My thoughts The Revington part will be made in the Far East, the Moss one will probably be SKF or Timken. How many miles are you going to do annually? If the Revington ones were no good they would have a queue of dissatisfied customers and they would have to stop selling them. Rgds Ian Hi Ian. Understand what you are saying, i generally do about 3-5k in the Tr6, now with two seems logical they are would do 2.5 k in each car. Although thinking about it , i have suggested to the GF that she should drive the Tr3 whenever she wants, so the tr3 could do more if she likes it.. I dont want to be changing these bearings again in a couple of years, so i will go with the stronger bearing. Better find out who sells what. Cheers Guy Edited October 16, 2011 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 Hi There Buy the KIT GHK1144 which includes one bearing and both the seals for £43.85 incld VAT from Moss It is cheaper than buying the bearing on its own from them and will give you the seals that are needed. ( This is a trick I learnt working for C&B 20 years ago - it is the rear wheel bearing kit for a Dogomite Sprint, same as TR3 Girling. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 If the hub spins okay off the car and then rumbles and sounds horrid assembled, do you have one wheel on the ground so that when you turn the wheel the propshaft is spinning at double speed cos of the diff, because that will make a rumbling noise. Just a thought. Ash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 If the hub spins okay off the car and then rumbles and sounds horrid assembled, do you have one wheel on the ground so that when you turn the wheel the propshaft is spinning at double speed cos of the diff, because that will make a rumbling noise. Just a thought. Ash Hi Ash, i dont have the propshaft connected, and i spun the wheels with both off the ground. I dont hear it when off the car, but it doesnt spin freely, ie it wont wizz round, like i would expect. If i turn the wheel slowly on the car , no noise, however if i speed it up i can hear it, and if i really spin it i can hear it easily from a distance. Thanks for the thought. Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 If you turn one wheel while the other is stationary the diff gears will make a noise like a dud wheel bearing and I've known people get caught with that one. I haven't done it, but I understand that it's hard not to distort the flanges when you press them off the half shafts, hence my asking the question. I was hoping ai could save you a nasty job. Ash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 (edited) If you turn one wheel while the other is stationary the diff gears will make a noise like a dud wheel bearing and I've known people get caught with that one. I haven't done it, but I understand that it's hard not to distort the flanges when you press them off the half shafts, hence my asking the question. I was hoping ai could save you a nasty job. Ash Ashley, After all this you may have hit the nail on the head.. I have listened to the diff and hub with the screwdriver Stethoscope trick, thanks Alec. I cant tell the difference between them , however if a spin both wheels at the same time the noise vanishes. So i have put the loan of the Churchill tool, on hold, going to recheck that everthing is torqued up correctly, as i do have some play when i hold the wheel at 12 & 6 , 3&9, put some fresh oil in, and go from there.I have also noted that the brake linings rhd seem to be covered in an oily coating, possibly leak from hub oil seal? Most likely wait till i can drive the car on the road, see how it is. Thanks Again Guy Edited October 16, 2011 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 (edited) You're describing the diff noise! I'm glad I was some use. Ash Edited October 16, 2011 by Ashley James Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 Ash, Your post made me re think it all through Thanks. I do have this problem sometimes that i fix things that arent broken. Anyway i havent even driven this car yet, and have carried out a fair bit off work, mainly suspension and steering, Superpro bushes etc., these things needed attention. My aim now is to get her on the road, see how she drives, then carry out any further improvements. Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted October 16, 2011 Report Share Posted October 16, 2011 I've only just got mine on the road and running properly and I'm thrilled to bits with it. It's more,than fast enough, it handles well, albeit with very heavy steering and it has a surprising amount of grip from 155/80 x 15s. They are a lovely car with lots of character and eminently usable, at least in good weather. Ash Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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