Peter Douglas Winn Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Suddenly I cannot get the gearstick to lift so that it will go into reverse gear. It does not matter if the engine is running or not. We have taken the stick out and compared it with other ones, nothing. We have put in new screw adjusters in and set them up, nothing. We have given the whole area a good supply of grease, nothing. The liitle spring and ball was there. When the stick is out the three shift rods in the top cover sit perefctly aligned and can be moved very easilly with a piece of wood. No feeling of sticking anywhere. It seems that the domed piece of metal under the cap with the bayonette cutouts does not move or does not allow the gearlever to lift up through the metal dome's hole. There is a lip on the gearlever. When I wobble the gearlever around for sometime, it then suddenly goes very smoothly into gear. The gear changes are all very smooth. (Laycock clutch) Anybody had something like this before. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Suddenly I cannot get the gearstick to lift so that it will go into reverse gear. It does not matter if the engine is running or not. We have taken the stick out and compared it with other ones, nothing. We have put in new screw adjusters in and set them up, nothing. We have given the whole area a good supply of grease, nothing. The liitle spring and ball was there. When the stick is out the three shift rods in the top cover sit perefctly aligned and can be moved very easilly with a piece of wood. No feeling of sticking anywhere. It seems that the domed piece of metal under the cap with the bayonette cutouts does not move or does not allow the gearlever to lift up through the metal dome's hole. There is a lip on the gearlever. When I wobble the gearlever around for sometime, it then suddenly goes very smoothly into gear. The gear changes are all very smooth. (Laycock clutch) Anybody had something like this before. Dont whetever you do change the positions of the selector rods without the gear lever ( ie with that piece of wood) as you could get twe gears selected at once! Bang. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rpurchon Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 (edited) Suddenly I cannot get the gearstick to lift so that it will go into reverse gear. It does not matter if the engine is running or not. We have taken the stick out and compared it with other ones, nothing. We have put in new screw adjusters in and set them up, nothing. We have given the whole area a good supply of grease, nothing. The liitle spring and ball was there. When the stick is out the three shift rods in the top cover sit perefctly aligned and can be moved very easilly with a piece of wood. No feeling of sticking anywhere. It seems that the domed piece of metal under the cap with the bayonette cutouts does not move or does not allow the gearlever to lift up through the metal dome's hole. There is a lip on the gearlever. When I wobble the gearlever around for sometime, it then suddenly goes very smoothly into gear. The gear changes are all very smooth. (Laycock clutch) Anybody had something like this before. the gear lever does not lift to go into reverse. not in my car anyway. it just sort of clicks then goes across to reverse postion. if you have the gearbox tunnel cover off.take of the top of the gbox and check. and check the reverse gear lever is all ok. as you look into the gear box it is at the rear left side of box. its quite simple it only swings back and forward engaging the reverse gear. the levers is fixed and pivots on a bolt through the side of the gear box. has the nut come loose on the out side of the box. or has the lever bent. richard Edited June 16, 2011 by rpurchon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 (edited) Should be a metal spring under the cover plate http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID006637 Part 42 Is it locating correctly Edited June 16, 2011 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Denis Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 the gear lever does not lift to go into reverse. not in my car anyway. it just sort of clicks then goes across to reverse postion. if you have the gearbox tunnel cover off.take of the top of the gbox and check. and check the reverse gear lever is all ok. as you look into the gear box it is at the rear left side of box. its quite simple it only swings back and forward engaging the reverse gear. the levers is fixed and pivots on a bolt through the side of the gear box. has the nut come loose on the out side of the box. or has the lever bent. richard Mine has always had to 'lift' before and after a full rebuild! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 You should have to lift to select reverse as there should be a step up to the reverse selector cup though lots have the edge worn off by now with people not bothering Is the large spring fitted the right way up? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Robert Price Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 I am on my 3rd TR6 and none of them have required the gear stick lifting to get reverse (they were all CP from 1970 to 1972)and the large spring should be small diameter on the bottom. To get reverse there is a small amount of resistance as you knock the lever across. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard V Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Dont whetever you do change the positions of the selector rods without the gear lever ( ie with that piece of wood) as you could get twe gears selected at once! Bang. There should be an interlock mechanism, Moss catalogue page 28 item 42 and 43, which will prevent this. Cheers, Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted June 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 (edited) When I looked at the LHS slider rod the notch was higher than the cutouts for the forward gears. Which must mean lift the stick. I have never lifted the stick on a Triumphs before not even on my factory new ones. So I presume there was some type of gliding function that got the stick it into reverse. The spring is the right way up. The locating pin screws have been checked in two different ways. 1. as per workshop manual 2. Feeling the amount of play. The result was the same, no go. Screws have been exchanged. Why has this suddenly happened? To cap it again. The difficulty is getting the bottom of the gear lever, to go into the cutout on the reverse gear shift rod. After that changing gear is as sweet as you can get it. Edited June 17, 2011 by Peter Douglas Winn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bald Rick Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 (edited) Dont whetever you do change the positions of the selector rods without the gear lever ( ie with that piece of wood) as you could get twe gears selected at once! Bang. Er Sorry but I don't think selecting two gears at the same time is possible. Unless the interlock system has been disabled/removed? Tony Edited June 17, 2011 by Bald Rick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 When I looked at the LHS slider rod the notch was higher than the cutouts for the forward gears. Which must mean lift the stick. I have never lifted the stick on a Triumphs before not even on my factory new ones. So I presume there was some type of gliding function that got the stick it into reverse. The spring is the right way up. The locating pin screws have been checked in two different ways. 1. as per workshop manual 2. Feeling the amount of play. The result was the same, no go. Screws have been exchanged. Why has this suddenly happened? To cap it again. The difficulty is getting the bottom of the gear lever, to go into the cutout on the reverse gear shift rod. After that changing gear is as sweet as you can get it. Try it without the anti-rattle spring and plunger in place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Denis Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 (edited) I am on my 3rd TR6 and none of them have required the gear stick lifting to get reverse (they were all CP from 1970 to 1972)and the large spring should be small diameter on the bottom. To get reverse there is a small amount of resistance as you knock the lever across. Rob How strange! I bought my CP car at 16,000 miles and in all the years I've owned and run it I've had to lift the stick before pulling it back for reverse! Edited June 18, 2011 by Denis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
88V8 Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 How strange! I bought my CP car at 16,000 miles and in all the years I've owned and run it I've had to lift the stick before pulling it back for reverse! One should have to lift it. But I imagine that if some ape were to bang it across for long enough, the protecting ridge would eventually round off. As I did until I complained about it being 'difficult' to get into reverse, and Stuart corrected me.... None of which helps the OP Ivor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 I think I know why with some cars you have to lift the stick and others not. It depends on the angle of the bottom of the cut out in the part Pt No 127385. If it is turned slightly anti clockwise then the edge of the cutout, nearer the bottom of the gear lever would be somewhat higher. This will mean instead of sliding across there is a definate step to negotiate. Don't ask me why it should turn. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Robert Price Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 I think I know why with some cars you have to lift the stick and others not. It depends on the angle of the bottom of the cut out in the part Pt No 127385. If it is turned slightly anti clockwise then the edge of the cutout, nearer the bottom of the gear lever would be somewhat higher. This will mean instead of sliding across there is a definate step to negotiate. Don't ask me why it should turn. There is some logic in what you say, as already stated by me none of my cars has had a lifting gearstick and having tried to lift the one on my current car it has no vertical movement so the theory that an edge has been worn off will not stack up as the lever would still be liftable if designed to do so, they must differ from what members have said. Rob P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted June 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 Rob We are pretty sure it is something to do with the cut out and the bottom of the gear stick. We are now wondering if the 156460 tension cap (bayonette type) and 112442 spring retainer are worn. Unfortunately when I sold my two G/Bs I sold them with the gear lever. I have now found out that these parts are not available anymore, how stupid can you get? Can anyone help? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PJM Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 Try TRGB they have all sorts of 2nd hand stuff (sorry pre owned) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roadster Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 Coming to this a bit later, I've never had to lift my gear lever to get into reverse, though it does take a bit of a push. But I thought I'd check the Handbook. It says nothing about lifting the lever. It just says "Move the lever sharply to the extreme right and rearward". So it looks as though Triumph did not design it to need a lift. Hope that helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Thanks I was going to look in the book to find out if Triumph recommended lifting the stick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted July 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 I have now replaced the bayonette cap piece and the small cap underneath. New adjusting screws. Cleaned and greased everything and put it back with the little ball bearing. It now works again. I looked at the step in the reverse shaft it was worn down to a slope that's why, I normally did not have to lift the gear. The ineresting thing was, the adjustements on the screws as per book and per feeling, were wrong. The LHS adjuster ( the one for the 3rd and 4th gear) was casuing the problem and combined with the broken bayonette edge was making it impossible to set it up properly. Why it suddenly happened? I still have no explanation. Thanks for all your help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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