Clutch Noise.

[Jersey Royal]

Chaps,

 

I would like some clarification please.

 

The carrier i have is a high quality Phosphor Bronze (not Sintered Bronze)

 

 

Phosphor Bronze

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphor_bronze

http://www.copperinfo.co.uk/alloys/bronze/

 

Sintered Bronze

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sintering

http://www.oiliteproduct.com/bronzes-bushes.html

 

So Sintered Bronze is self lubricating whereas Phosphor Bronze is not.

 

Therefore i should apply a small coating of High Temperature Grease to the sleeve????

 

What have you done.

 

Thanks

Guy

[88V8]

See this topic, Roger's post at the end.

From what he says - and no one dissented - sintered bronze should be soaked in oil, phosphor bronze just requires a light smear of grease as Neil said, also in that topic.

 

http://www.tr-regist...=1

 

Ivor

[RogerH]

However - sintered material will take up oil for continued lubrication whereas a solid phos bronze bush can not 'soak up' oil so must be lubricated seperately where possible depending on purpose used.

 

Now for the however - the bearing carrier is operating at a very low frequency (gear change) and as Phos Bronze is sort of self lubricating it shouldn't need any additional lubrication.

Also the lubricant may cause muck to stick to it and cause the carrier to go stiff

 

Leave as is.

 

Roger

[Guest ntc]

Guy have you fitted the gearbox?

[Jersey Royal]

Guy have you fitted the gearbox?

 

 

Box fitted, bell housing all bolted up. On my tod.

 

Did not apply lubricant to Phosphor Bronze carrier or the sleeve.

But did make sure they were both spotless, and polished with a Meguiars

metal polish, when operated by had it glides across.

 

Did apply copperslip to spigot.

 

However noticed that the rear gearbox mount rubber appears to have suffered

from the heat of the exhaust, so have ordered a new one.

 

I am redoing the overdrive loom whilst i await new mount.

 

Thanks all for your help.

 

Guy

[Guest ntc]

Should be good for !!!!!!!!!!!!! miles enjoy

[TR NIALL]

Good on ya Guy,we all knew you could do it

[Tony Millward]

Nice one Guy, soon be back on the road..

 

Cheers

 

Tony

[Jersey Royal]

Hi All.

 

Despite having fitted the box back in, i was not really 100 per cent

happy with no knowing for sure if the nose should be lubricated or not.

 

There seems to be those that do and those that dont, each to there own and all

that.

 

So i decided to contact my gearbox rebuilder Peter Cox,

 

Heres his recomendation.

 

I’d also recommend copper grease on the nose of the gearbox after polishing it.The same lubricant is good on the clutch plate splines in small quantities, ditto the spigot bush and a tiny amount of the bearing face.

Pete

 

So there it is, the box came back out the morning , copper slip aplied and re installed. The bell housing

was aligned correctly with the dowels and now is firmly bolted up.

 

The job is not complete as i await the new gearbox rear mount, and am going to tidy up the overdrive electric connections.

 

A good idea i have had from Mr P was to cover the ends of the connections with glue from a glue gun, and whilst it is setting

pad it down with your fingers. This will give a perfect watertight seal.

 

Then road test, top up oil.

 

Then of course the usual refit interior etc

 

Thanks to everyone for your comments on this thread and to those who sent Pms.

 

Nearly sorted

 

Guy

[Guest ntc]

Another apologies from me Now far be it from me to disagree with Peter Cox I would never copper slip the splines as that could contaminate the plate. But as you say each to there own.And a glue gun is not water tight use heat shrink

Edited November 15, 2010 by ntc

[Alec Pringle]

Guy's mention of hotmelt glue as an adjunct to heatshrink isn't my bright idea, it's down to my son Tom. I had to open up recently some of the joints Tom had made 5 years ago, the notorious Wedge front end electrics - still as bright, untarnished and secure as when he made them. Hotmelt glue can be very handy for items that can't easily be heat shrinkwrapped, or as a secondary protection. Tom's day job is electrics and electronics on high performance marine applications, he possibly has more experience of water and electrics than most of us . . . .

 

By the same token, if I have an acknowledged specialist rebuild a gearbox, axle or engine I don't argue the toss - I simply follow his recommendations. Two good reasons - for one he probably knows more about his specialist day job than I do, and for two there are no disputes about warranty if his recommendations are followed to the letter. That may be a naive attitude, but (touch wood!) I've yet to have a difference of opinion in respect of warranty issues - maybe I'm just lucky !

 

A smidgeon of lubricant on the splines is unlikely ever to contaminate the plate, any more than the bare minimum would obviously be asking for trouble. Common sense rules OK !

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[Guest ntc]

Common sense rules OK !

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

 

 

Yes of course Alec no disagreement there . Try standing in the centre of a circle at 15 rpm never mind 5000 plus see if you can hang on?. A recommendation in my industry is not to use heated glue joints in (warm) or wet environments. Guy rev it up a few times before pressing the clutch

[Jersey Royal]

Hi Chaps,

 

Got the interior back in the car on the weekend, and the job is

complete.

 

Was tied up with family stuff so was unable to take the car for a good run.

 

However today, is a lovely day here, blue skys and nice and bright.

So took the car for a blast, wow the gearbox and overdrive are superb,

the car feels so much tighter and together, even faster, if that makes sense

 

I am a Happy Bunny Again.

 

Thanks to all for your input.

Cheers

Guy

[Phil Kirk]

Well done Guy.. It is really great when all the hard work proves to be well worth while and puts a smile on your face!

Cheers Phil