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tr3a control box replacement


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My control box is playing up when starting the car after it has been sitting for a few weeks/months. The metal on the contacts has started to corrode and now needs to be cleaned with wet/dry paper befoe she will fire up. I have decided to replace the box but wondered if anyone could recommend a supplier (I understand there are some dubious boxes out there). I dont want to go the alternator route as the dynamo is only a few months old.

 

Thanks

 

Mark

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My control box is playing up when starting the car after it has been sitting for a few weeks/months. The metal on the contacts has started to corrode and now needs to be cleaned with wet/dry paper befoe she will fire up. I have decided to replace the box but wondered if anyone could recommend a supplier (I understand there are some dubious boxes out there). I dont want to go the alternator route as the dynamo is only a few months old. Thanks Mark

Mark

 

Have a read of my thread referred to by Roger, http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=21321&st=0 My control box and C40 are now at Cox Automotive being 'properly sorted' by Ken Cox, see: http://www.coxautomotive.co.uk/ - don't waste your time with lookalike repro Lucas RB106 control boxes, they are cheap rubbish – just compare the coils and windings. Buy yourself a few old RB106s (not the 106/2 they push out too many amps i.e. about 16 - 17 compared to the 14.4 of the straight 106) and have Cox refurb them.

 

Cheers

Andrew

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Hi Andrew, I think you're getting your amps and volts mixed again - 14.4Volts Roger

Oh, bloody hell yes! - what did I say about 'Electrickery'............... :wacko:

 

As for you Pringle, you'll get yours - buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.....................................! :rolleyes:

 

Cheers

Andrew

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Thanks for the advice,I have attached a photo to show the corrosion on the bottom coil.The box is a Lucas RB106.post-4923-126022533919_thumb.jpg

Mark

 

I would suggest your RB106 is refurbishable and not as bad as some that Cox Automotive have brought back to life, but a call to Ken Cox would confirm.

 

Cheers

Andrew

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I have spent years on this problem. New boxes are usinginferior copper and poor quality parts. I suppose that it is surprising that any one would bother making them at all.

I found Cox and I now run an overhaule 1966 Controol Box with no further problems. See previous threads.

It has taken meyears to sort this out and now it is really satisfying. Good Luck :)

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Hi Frank,

thanks for that :) - shame about the MGA tag :angry: . Surely this must be the way to go :mellow:

 

Roger

 

 

Of course, you're welcome. I have not seen these in person or heard any reviews, so if you go this route please let us know.

 

Frank

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I shall be receiving my new control box (voltage regulator) re-furbished by Cox in time for Christmas. Our daughter who lives in London will be bringing it home to Canada when she comes to see us during Christmas week. Thank you Richard for your big part in all of this.

 

Since my TR3A has been in winter storage from October 31st (we just had our first snow of the winter today - 6 inches) I will be putting the control box in sometime between the 12th day of Christmas and April.

 

My original control box from 1958 still works but it sometimes spits battery acid up through the vent holes in the caps on the top of my "original-looking" LUCAS replica antique battery. I had been looking for a workable and reliable spare control box for about 5 years (when I bought one brand new in a green and white "LUCAS" box) and it wouldn't work when I installed it to test it, so now I will have a good "new" Cox control box and I'll carry my original one as a spare - not that I should ever need it. If this new one from Cox lasts as long as my original one (52 years), I'll be 124 years old by then. My, how time flies when you're having fun.

 

The photos are from my 1958 TR3A, taken about 5 years ago.

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Hi all

Interesting reading for a novice but how can you tell if a control box is playing up?

 

When I picked up my 3A from its PO it burnt out the dynamo on the way home. The car had been stored for about 2 years and the contacts in the control box (non original)had apparently "welded up". I scourced an original Lucas item but unfortunately the guy who supplied and tested it dropped it and rendered it useless. He supplied a non original item which he said he had tested. I fitted it 18 months ago and it seems fine.

Having read the thread I will look out for a good spare.

 

To complete the picture I would however like to understand what the symptoms of a faulty unit would be.

thanks

 

Steve

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Hi all

Interesting reading for a novice but how can you tell if a control box is playing up?

 

When I picked up my 3A from its PO it burnt out the dynamo on the way home. The car had been stored for about 2 years and the contacts in the control box (non original)had apparently "welded up". I scourced an original Lucas item but unfortunately the guy who supplied and tested it dropped it and rendered it useless. He supplied a non original item which he said he had tested. I fitted it 18 months ago and it seems fine.

Having read the thread I will look out for a good spare.

 

To complete the picture I would however like to understand what the symptoms of a faulty unit would be.

thanks

 

Steve

 

 

 

Steve: A common symptom of a control box problem is over-charging of the battery, evidenced by boiling and overflow of the electrolyte. This is not only bad for the battery but the acid can cause damage where it spills. This condition can usually be corrected by an adjustment of the control box.

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