Retro fitting overdrive switch to TR6

[jake_a]

Ay up,

 

I bought my TR6 in 1992 fresh from the old US of A. From the moment I bought it I couldn't believe it that a car ordered for the country that invented the highway would NOT be fitted with overdrive!

 

When I restored it in 1996 I fitted a J type overdrive box but couldn't be bothered paying what were then very high prices for an original overdrive column switch, so I fitted a little under dash switch.

 

I now have the proper switch and cowl and have a simple question; how the hell do I fit it?! Any tips much appreciated.

 

Jake

[PILKIE]

Hi Jake.

 

Did you retain and fit the original wiring with the o/d gearbox?

If so its only a simple on/off switch to allow power to operate the solenoid.

Have a good look at a wiring diagram,it shouldnt be too hard to make up a small set of wires to operate it.

 

Dave

Edited November 28, 2009 by PILKIE

[jake_a]

Hi Jake.

 

Did you retain and fit the original wiring with the o/d gearbox?

If so its only a simple on/off switch to allow power to operate the solenoid.

Have a good look at a wiring diagram,it shouldnt be too hard to make up a small set of wires to operate it.

 

Dave

 

 

Sorry Dave, I meant fit it to the column correctly (i.e how to get the wires correctly fed through, etc). All wiring is in place with the current under dash on/off switch. Thought that was implicit in my post?

[foster461]

Ay up,

 

I bought my TR6 in 1992 fresh from the old US of A. From the moment I bought it I couldn't believe it that a car ordered for the country that invented the highway would NOT be fitted with overdrive!

 

When I restored it in 1996 I fitted a J type overdrive box but couldn't be bothered paying what were then very high prices for an original overdrive column switch, so I fitted a little under dash switch.

 

I now have the proper switch and cowl and have a simple question; how the hell do I fit it?! Any tips much appreciated.

 

Jake

 

 

Jake, you should have the special OD escutcheon with the two holes, one for the OD and on my LHD car the other hole is for the indicator switch. RHD may be slightly different. Unlike the indicator and main beam switches the OD switch is just fastened into the escutcheon and not to the column.

 

The two wires from the switch run through the channel under the steering column along with the other wires from the indicator and beam switches. It will be a tight fit and you will need to remove the big gauges to get access to the rear column clamp and then essentially remove the clamp, feed all of the wires through the channel, re-assemble the clamp around the channel/wires taking care not to pinch anything.

 

Once you have the OD wires on the other side of the dash it is just a matter of connecting them into the OD loom, it is a simple circuit.

 

Apologies if I have misunderstood your question.

 

Stan

[PILKIE]

OOPS! Didnt read it properly.

You can do as Stan suggests,but its a VERY fiddly job,far easier to run the cable discretely alongside the column and secure with black cableties!

Edited November 29, 2009 by PILKIE

[jake_a]

OOPS! Didnt read it properly.

You can do as Stan suggests,but its a VERY fiddly job,far easier to run the cable discretely alongside the column and secure with black cableties!

 

 

Pilkie, thanks for this mate, I wanted to avoid any fiddliness wherever possible!

 

I've got the correct switch and escutcheon so will give it a go.

Edited November 29, 2009 by jake_a

[PILKIE]

No probs!

I did this when I broke my light switch,"5 wires!!!",I also wrapped the wires tightly in black insulation tape to add to the disguise.

Will only be seen if you are looking for it!

As and when you have to take the column apart then you can do it properly!

The o/d escutcheon just replaces the one already on the car!

Edited November 29, 2009 by PILKIE

[67_gt6]

It will be a tight fit and you will need to remove the big gauges to get access to the rear column clamp and then essentially remove the clamp, feed all of the wires through the channel, re-assemble the clamp around the channel/wires taking care not to pinch anything.

 

Or remove driver's seat from runners and do it on your back in the footwell. Not too bad if you are 5'8" or under

 

Andy

[PaulAnderson]

Pardon for adding to your post but I was assisting a member tonight who had retro fitted an overdrive to his (ex USA) TR6. In the TR6 wiring diagram it shows that both the brown supply cable to relay terminal C1 (solenoid circuit) and white cable to relay terminal W1 (switching circuit) both go to the fuse box. That's different to my TR4A where one goes to the ammeter and another to the ignition switch. As it's not shown in the diagram is there a convention as to which fuse or side of the fusebox these two circuits are fed from?

 

Many thanks

Paul

[tthomson]

Pardon for adding to your post but I was assisting a member tonight who had retro fitted an overdrive to his (ex USA) TR6. In the TR6 wiring diagram it shows that both the brown supply cable to relay terminal C1 (solenoid circuit) and white cable to relay terminal W1 (switching circuit) both go to the fuse box. That's different to my TR4A where one goes to the ammeter and another to the ignition switch. As it's not shown in the diagram is there a convention as to which fuse or side of the fusebox these two circuits are fed from?

 

Many thanks

Paul

 

 

Hi Paul,

 

Brown wires are typically connected directly to the battery (or through Ammeter to Battery).

White wires are connected through the ignition switch. Normally neither brown nor white circuits are fused.

 

Good luck

 

TT

[PaulAnderson]

Hi Paul,

Brown wires are typically connected directly to the battery (or through Ammeter to Battery).

White wires are connected through the ignition switch. Normally neither brown nor white circuits are fused.

Good luck

TT

 

 

Thanks for the reply. As the wiring diagram (found at http://www.advanceautowire.com/index.htm ) clearly indicates both are from the fusebox then I might assume that one is on a permanent live fed fuse circuit and the other through a switched fed circuit at the fusebox. It would be nice if someone with a TR6 could confirm which fuse circuit they're normally coupled up with - I assume the're piggy backed onto another circuit connnector at the fusebox. (I also note the luxury of three fuses on a six (with a fourth spare) as against only two on a 4A)

 

Thanks,

Paul

[sixtynine]

I added an overdrive tr3 or tr4 a type to my 69 tr6. Driven the car a couple times to make sure tranny worked fine, it does. So tomorrow I need to run the wires through the column. One guy mentioned not taking gauges out and working on your back. I'm guessing to remove the clamp. If that's possible I'll try it. Seats already out. What ya think?

[peejay4A]

I've never done it retrospectively but for the short time it takes to remove and replace the speedo and rev counter I would do that and work sitting up and able to see what I was doing.

[RogerH]

Hi,

it looks similar to the 4A.

Take the speedo and tacho out - easy job and makes life good.

Remove the rear *nearest steering wheel) clamp

Remove the two cowls

Remove the cover #34

Now you can feed the wires through from the switch.

 

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/steering-suspension/steering/steering-wheels-columns-fittings.html

 

Roger