joespiro Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Hi all I am having problems with a needle valve sticking in my rear carb, have spoken to burlen and they have recommended new needle valves - apparently they have a rubber pin that is more accepting of tiny bits of dirt. I am off to burlen first thing tomorrow to collect them. However, this has led me to think I ought to put an inline filter in the fuel line. has anyone done this - what type was it and would you recommend it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Joe An inline filter is highly recommended for any car with a 40 year old fuel tank. The one in my TR4 was let in the flexible line just after its entry into the engine bay. It caught a lot of debris which would have otherwise ended up in the carbs Cheers ALan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Hi all I am having problems with a needle valve sticking in my rear carb, have spoken to burlen and they have recommended new needle valves - apparently they have a rubber pin that is more accepting of tiny bits of dirt. I am off to burlen first thing tomorrow to collect them. However, this has led me to think I ought to put an inline filter in the fuel line. has anyone done this - what type was it and would you recommend it? Yes, small plastic one from Halfords, just open the boxes until you find a sensible size. You can put it inline just before the front carb. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
joespiro Posted November 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Thanks, I will make my way to halfrauds tomorrow - I guess they all filter out the same size of impuritys/debris? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Hi Joe, if that's Salisbury Halfrauds . . . on the same estate, same block, north (Salisbury centre) side is Camberley Auto Factors. A lot cheaper if you talk nicely to them and say Jeff recommended you !! Basic inline clear plastic filter is all you need. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mychael Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 I've not got around to doing it but I have thought about using one of those metal fuel filters that modern cars have. Larger and more expensive of course and you cannot see in them but more secure, no danger of cracking. Mychael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 Can I suggest the following link about half way down the page washable filter. Clear view and reusable!!! http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod_other.html Rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 Joe, consider fitting the inline filter before your fuel pump, if you are still using the mechanical original. Where the fuel line comes up into the pump from along the chassis is good. Then it keeps both the pump and carbies clean, and removes reliance on just the guaze at the top of the glass bowl, if indeed it has one, as many cars have lost them over the years. Regards, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
joespiro Posted November 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 Hi It is a Warwick so has two electric SU pumps at the back. I fitted a filter this morning at the bulkhead so it now has the glass bowl type filter with a paper filter and an in line plastic filter. Hopefully that will catch any sh1te that finds its way from the tanks. The problem of flooding is also sorted with some nice shiny needle valves from Burlen. Just the clutch to sort now beofre thinking about an MOT. Thanks for the advice. Joe Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fred Winterburn Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 Hi all I am having problems with a needle valve sticking in my rear carb, have spoken to burlen and they have recommended new needle valves - apparently they have a rubber pin that is more accepting of tiny bits of dirt. I am off to burlen first thing tomorrow to collect them. However, this has led me to think I ought to put an inline filter in the fuel line. has anyone done this - what type was it and would you recommend it? Hi, As mentioned an in-line filter really helps, but I've had junk get into the float valves after storing a vehicle if the petrol starts to break down. One improvement I've made to all of my SU carbureted cars is to replace the standard float valves with 'Grose jet' brand float valves. They are not nearly as susceptable to a bit of dirt. Moss and others carry these American made float valves that use a stainless ball inside a brass body. They work extremely well. They can be overcome by too much fuel pressure, but if you are using the correct fuel pump this will never happen. Good luck, Fred Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roly Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 I changed my fuel hoses (from fuel pump to carbs) this week and unwittingly created swarf where the sharp end of the copper pipes cut into the inner of the new hoses. First of all I had flooding cos the swarf jammed the needle valve open, and then no fuel at all to the rear carb as it blocked the are above the needle valve. These events choose their time nicely - just as I got onto a 10 mile section of the M5. That was fun trying to not get in the way of the lorries. All nicely cleaned out now. Roly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 I think it better to have a modern micro-filter between the pump and the carburettors (i.e. not before the pump) for 2 reasons: 1 - the gauze filter will trap larger particles, which are easily visible and the bowl and gauze are easily cleaned 2 - the micro-filter is easier to access if it is not buried down by the inlet to the pump's filter bowl. If muck is arriving from the tank after a prolonged period of storage, I think it is far more likely to be from corrosion of the inner surface of the tank than from the breakdown of the components of the fuel - our tanks are rather old now! Easy to tell which sort it is from examination of the stuff in the filter bowl - if its meatallic, it's the surface of the tank, if it's gooey, it's the fuel. If the tank is shedding metal, then read my article about the use of Slosh Tank Sealant in TRAction 144, also found in Section K3 of the Technicalities CD. If you have access to neither of these, e-amil me (ifcornish@btinternet.com) and I can send a copy. To minimise corrosion of the inside of the tank, keeping it full helps. Against that is the problem that the more volatile components of the fuel seem to escape from tanks rather readily, so what remains behind is a degraded fuel. The only real answer is to use the car in the winter (when no salt is on the roads), rather than storing it. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 I positioned mine as per IanC. Measure the inside diameter of the rubber hose you will cut to put it in, and get one, or ask the man for one, that fits that size hose. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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