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Rear Valance assembly...oh no


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Looks like a standard "Factory finish" that you find on most modern cars! :lol: Wind the pressure up a little more (70) and slow down fractionally and you should be spot on Guy. When you have got the four coats on (allowing good time for flash off in between) Empty the gun out and without washing it out refill with best thinners only and then just spray another coat across it slightly quicker than your speed now and that will flow out the "peel"

Stuart.

 

 

Hi Stuart,

 

Does this apply to acrylic too?.

 

The 'speck of dust syndrome'... :lol: Doesn't it drive you mad Guy?. It appears to be a great coat but... sitting right there in the middle...is a speck of dust...bugger. I'm going through the same thing.. :D

 

Tony

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Hi Stuart,

 

Does this apply to acrylic too?.

 

The 'speck of dust syndrome'... :lol: Doesn't it drive you mad Guy?. It appears to be a great coat but... sitting right there in the middle...is a speck of dust...bugger. I'm going through the same thing.. :D

 

Tony

 

 

LOL. My car was painted outside in 1990 and there is a dead bug in the bonnet that has been a constant annoyance to me. One of these days...

 

Guy, re the satin black, understood. I was getting confused with what you were calling the center but I think going back to the factory look is the right thing to do, I just think the TR6 looks better with this color scheme.

 

Stan

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Years ago painting cellulose all the time in less than ideal conditions (for a while in an old "Nissen" hut with gaps under the doors on a farm in the wilds of nowhere and in the middle of winter with only an old "Sally" :ph34r: for heating)My old Guvnor who was a proper east end villan always used to say of lumps of s*1t that got on the surface "Dont worry about it, just put plenty on boy it will float out in the end or you will bury it ;) " Which to a certain extent as we always had to flat and polish everything anyway it did.

Worst one I ever had was I had just finished painting the roof on a MK10 Jag and a huge "Harry" of a spider dropped out of the beam above and landed right in the middle of the panel and proceeded to try and walk across it. :blink: Needless to say it made one hell of a mess and I ended up having to repaint it the next day.

Tony I wouldnt necessarily recommend the flow coat of thinners with acrylic although you could try a test piece. Its more of an old cellulose dodge borrowed from the technique used to flow out "blow ins"

Stuart.

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Thanks Stuart, all due to your help.Will do as you say.

 

1200 wet between coats, thats if it isnt right?

 

Stan, just doing the centre of the rear in the satin, as i had it before.

 

Cheers

Guy

 

Yep worn 1200 is best for that as you dont get so many scratches and keep your hand flat if you arent using a block as you dont want finger marks in it. Dont forget to give it a good blow out to get rid of any water trapped anywhere and a spirit wipe and "Takrag" before the next coat.

It may also be an idea to change the masking for new by now as the overspray dust will be hanging around on it. "Cleanliness is next to Godliness" where topcoating is concerned.

Stuart.

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Yep worn 1200 is best for that as you dont get so many scratches and keep your hand flat if you arent using a block as you dont want finger marks in it. Dont forget to give it a good blow out to get rid of any water trapped anywhere and a spirit wipe and "Takrag" before the next coat.

It may also be an idea to change the masking for new by now as the overspray dust will be hanging around on it. "Cleanliness is next to Godliness" where topcoating is concerned.

Stuart.

 

 

Thanks very much. :rolleyes:

 

Will be trying to get final coats of colour on tomorrow, flash time i am told

by the paint manufacturer is 5 -10 mins at 20 degs.

 

Cheers

Guy

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At this time of year I would be inclined to give it 15 mins. Time you have rolled a fag, smoked it and then got your mask back on, drained the lines and ready to go again should be about right ;) (Other nerve calming products are available :lol: )

Stuart.

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At this time of year I would be inclined to give it 15 mins. Time you have rolled a fag, smoked it and then got your mask back on, drained the lines and ready to go again should be about right ;) (Other nerve calming products are available :lol: )

Stuart.

 

 

Morning.

 

Second coat applied, five mins to go till third.

 

When it comes to the last coat and sparying over the thinners, should i treat the thinner coat as

as a last coat, ie let the colour coat flash off, or let it dry completely?

 

Cheers

Guy

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Just let it flash off the same as before. Do your four colour coats and then after about fifteen minutes throw the thinner coat over, shut the doors and go and have a good sit down :P

Stuart

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Four good coats applied, and thinners coat once the last coat

had flashed off. B)

 

Looks ok. couple of little specks.

 

So now to let thorougly dry.

 

Going to give the boot another coat tomorrow, and inside of boot lid.

 

Then its onto, fit back boot lid and then wings. As fuel tank is out fitting back boot

lid and adjusting is so much easier access through the inside of the car with boot lid down

and in position.

 

Mask up the rear for the satin black, and spray. Numberplate

 

Fit fuel tank,Bosch pump, refit wiring loom, rear clusters.

 

Fit bump stop to rhd wing, Thanks Peter, and paint

 

Job Done :rolleyes:

 

 

If i need to G3 the rear and polish, whats the timescale on that??

 

 

Cheers

 

Guy

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Four good coats applied, and thinners coat once the last coat

had flashed off. B)

 

Looks ok. couple of little specks.

 

 

 

 

If i need to G3 the rear and polish, whats the timescale on that??

 

 

Cheers

 

Guy

 

I wouldnt worry about the odd speck in it as that can be sorted at the polishing stage. Do all the fitting up and then polish it as the longer you can allow the better. I wouldnt do the masking for the black for a while as you need to let the paint dry properly or the tape will mark the paint.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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I wouldnt worry about the odd speck in it as that can be sorted at the polishing stage. Do all the fitting up and then polish it as the longer you can allow the better. I wouldnt do the masking for the black for a while as you need to let the paint dry properly or the tape will mark the paint.

Stuart.

 

 

Thanks Stuart,

 

Just finished my cigar :lol:

 

Can see the light.

 

Cheers

Guy

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Pinky,

 

Sorry against my religion to spray Pink. :lol:

 

I have a slight run on the lip where the satin goes into the blue,

and am not happy. :angry: So once its dried, 1200 wet and another coat.

 

Buy was thinking about the black seal between the rear valance and wing, in particular

the blue part. If i give the rear valace another coat with the wings in place that seal will be

covered with blue paint rather than just be a black line?

 

Cheers

Guy

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Pinky,

 

Sorry against my religion to spray Pink. :lol:

 

I have a slight run on the lip where the satin goes into the blue,

and am not happy. :angry: So once its dried, 1200 wet and another coat.

 

Buy was thinking about the black seal between the rear valance and wing, in particular

the blue part. If i give the rear valace another coat with the wings in place that seal will be

covered with blue paint rather than just be a black line?

 

Cheers

Guy

 

If you want to preserve the black line of the sealer then apply a little vaseline with a fine brush over the sealer line and then when the paint is dry just wipe it off.

Stuart.

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DSC08319.jpg

 

DSC08317.jpg

 

 

Hi Guy,

 

Thats a superb job you've done! Nice looking "towel rail" by the way.....good to see that these bumpers, that were the cause of the job in the first place, have found themselves such a superb background. :D Well done!

 

Regards,

 

Tim

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Hi All,

 

Sorry i did not put any text with those last photos, my keyboard decided

it did not want me to use an i or e. :angry: Not much use and in the bin.

 

Its back together now,not at all bad, had few issues with the rear lights, mainly bad earths

and connecions, thats all sorted now.

 

Just got to clean the whole car properly and put back some of the interior and fit the bump stop in rh wheel arch.

 

Job done

 

Tim

 

The bars fitted fine,thanks again one on the front on too, thanks for your kind words.Just think

those bars were attched to your beautiful car, once owned by Mr P. Will

post some better photos of entire car soon.

 

Pinky,

 

Thanks for your kind words also :lol: Each to there own. As you know my front

and rear bumpers were past there best, however probably look good on your motor

should you decide yours are not bling enough B):P

 

Now to finish my wiring loom, fit back the sound system, part interior and the car is good to go,

and hood frame.

 

 

Weather has been good Tr weather mainly, but looking out of the window now its

raining and strong winds.

 

Thats all fort now folks, and thats to everyone who has given me advice, without

which i would not have attempted this ever.

 

Cheers

Guy

Edited by Jersey Royal
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Well done that man - I expect a few more people will be trying their hand at painting after watching your thread.

 

Roger

 

 

You are so right, I wonder if Webby could make it a "sticky"?

 

Can't wait to see the totally finished photos Guy, I haven't seen many permanently bumperless TR6s, other than the one below from Shropshire group

 

2007_0815assorted0052.jpg

 

Regards

 

Peter

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