67_gt6 Posted September 14, 2009 Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 Hi, on my last oil change I couldn't get the o ring out (standard set up). Eventually I decided to leave it and thankfully it remained oil tight. This time I want to get it out, does anyone have any good tips? andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted September 14, 2009 Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 Hi, on my last oil change I couldn't get the o ring out (standard set up). Eventually I decided to leave it and thankfully it remained oil tight. This time I want to get it out, does anyone have any good tips? andy A needle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 14, 2009 Report Share Posted September 14, 2009 Hi Andy, as Neil says a stout needle or an engineers scriber - dig it in and pull. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 And Andy, another option is a meat skewer from the bottom drawer in the kitchen, or put a sharp point on a short length of suitable wire and a loop for a handle on the other end, and keep it in the "special tools" bin. I've even heard of a pointy compass tip being used. Regards, Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted September 15, 2009 Report Share Posted September 15, 2009 Hi, on my last oil change I couldn't get the o ring out (standard set up). Eventually I decided to leave it and thankfully it remained oil tight. This time I want to get it out, does anyone have any good tips? andy Two words: dental probe. Chat with your dentist on the next visit. The tool he or she uses to poke all of the teeth that you said hurt is ideal for this job and they must discard old ones occasionally. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted September 22, 2009 Report Share Posted September 22, 2009 The alternative, if there has been little or no leakage from the joint, is to leave the old ring in there. I ran my TR2 for 5 years and some 65,000 miles, with regular oil changes - and I never changed the sealing ring. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4Tony Posted September 22, 2009 Report Share Posted September 22, 2009 Ian's advice is good ... if its a quality O ring leave it in there as some of the replacement ones are made of very poor quality rubber. If you need to take it out a needle scribe seems to be the tool for the job. Regards Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 At a flea market (auto jumble) I bought a couple of dental picks for a dollar each. The one with the curved spiral pointy tip is the best. The problem with leaving the old rubber seal there the next time you change the oil filter occurs when you try to put in a new seal with the old one still there. It'll leak. So between removing the old filter and replacing it, I trust that you are not yet suffering from "Alka-Seltzer" disease. I can't explain why, but I find I am have forgotten the right name. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SuzanneH Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 I trust that you are not yet suffering from "Alka-Seltzer" disease. I can't explain why, but I find I am have forgotten the right name. Don I think you mean "JACOBS CREAM CRACKERS DISEASE" Best wishes Sue Quote Link to post Share on other sites
67_gt6 Posted September 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 (edited) Thanks all, I used an awl in the end. Ever the Scotsman, my main concern was that I was about to fill it with expensive oil - Millers semi synthetic Classic Sport 20w50 - so didn't want to take the risk of a poor seal. I find after a long high speed run - Glasgow to Edinburgh at 3900 to occasional 5000 RPM in direct top, my oil pressure is 5 - 10 PSI higher at tickover with this oil. Andy Edited September 30, 2009 by 67_gt6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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