Tyres

[NickMorgan]

I am sure this question has been asked many times before, but I am afraid that I can't find a previous topic about it.

 

My Goodyear tyres are 15 years old and although they look fine I think it is time for some new rubber.

What would members recommend and please can you tell me where I can get them. My local garage can't supply any 165 x 15s but if I can supply them they will fit and balance them for me.

 

Thanks for any advice.

Edited September 2, 2008 by NickMorgan

[Steve R]

Hi Nick

Try vredestein classic, I think you can find them on the interweb for around £50 a corner delivered.

Regards

Steve

[Menno van Rij]

Vredestein sells two types of classic tyres for our cars: Sprint+ and Sprint Classic. Most owners prefer the Sprint+: about 50 GBP and good value for money. I use them all year round on my Saab and I'm quite happy with these tyres. In fact, I met a man last Saturday who owns a Porsche 356 C for everyday's use (12000 km/year) and his car also had Sprint+ tyres. Considering the roadholding of these cars in the first place, I think that Sprint+ is a safe choice.

 

Menno

Edited September 2, 2008 by Menno van Rij

[NickMorgan]

Thank you guys. I had Vrederstein Sprints on my 4A about 20 years ago, so it is good to know they are still made. I have just been looking up the prices on http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m4b0s408p0 and note that the Classics are £105 while the Sprint + are £38.

Now on the 4A the Sprints were great. However, when I first bought the TR3A I had some cheap Aurora tyres fitted. One of the first times I ran the car in the wet, I spun on a greasy corner and smashed the front of the car. I then bought the Goodyears as I wanted something that would grip a bit more predictably.

Do you know how the Sprint + compares to the Classic. Are they worth three times the price? Is it a false economy to buy the cheaper tyre if I may spin into another wall!!!

[NickMorgan]

Thank you guys. I had Vrederstein Sprints on my 4A about 20 years ago, so it is good to know they are still made. I have just been looking up the prices on http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m4b0s408p0 and note that the Classics are £105 while the Sprint + are £38.

Now on the 4A the Sprints were great. However, when I first bought the TR3A I had some cheap Aurora tyres fitted. One of the first times I ran the car in the wet, I spun on a greasy corner and smashed the front of the car. I then bought the Goodyears as I wanted something that would grip a bit more predictably.

Do you know how the Sprint + compares to the Classic. Are they worth three times the price? Is it a false economy to buy the cheaper tyre if I may spin into another wall!!!

[BrianC]

I have been contemplating buying the Sprint+ but was concerned as to whether they are suitable for use on wires with tubes as I believe some manufacturers don't recommend this. The reply from Camskill was slightly unhelpful Can anyone confirm whether this is likely to be a problem?

 

 

2008/6/13 Brian Chidwick:

> The following message was submitted via the contact form at

http://www.camskill.co.uk

, June 13, 2008, 8:37 pm

>

> I am considering buying two sets of these tyres for my Triumph TR3A and TR4A cars, These are described as tubeless, so could you please confirm that they are suitable and approved for use with tubes on wire wheels.

>

 

 

 

Yes they are, all new tyres are tubeless, in the fact they come without tubes

Edited September 2, 2008 by BrianC

[Steve R]

Nick

I've just checked mine and they are sprint+, I have not covered many miles since i got them, but the car handles a lot better now, the tyres i had were kellys of unknown vintage, lots of tread but well past their best.

Steve

[Menno van Rij]

As you know (off course) Vredestein is a Dutch brand. At the end of the 60s, the 70s and early 80s, Michelin, Pneumant and Continental dominated the Dutch market. The Vredestein tyre that we now know as 'Sprint Classic' was their only option. And most car owners wouldn't even look at these tyres. I remember my father buying Dunlops for his Austin Glider, just because he thought that a British car should wear British tyres... Anyway, early 80s they introduced the tyre that we now know as Sprint+. A budget tyre, like Kumho nowadays. If you could afford it, you choose Michelin XZX-ish tyres.

That time I was a student thrashing a Honda Civic . When I needed tyres, the only ones I could afford where the Sprint+ tyres. And I (still) think that it was a good choice. They never gave me trouble. And believe me, there were enough potential troublesome moments with this Honda (and my driving), back then...

 

Nowadays, Vredestein has gained quite a reputation in the Alp Countries for their winter tyres. The German car magazines rated the Snowtrac 2 very high in their tests Autumn 2007. On the other hand, Vredestein is a strong supporter of Continental classic car events: the Winter Trial etc. The expensive expeditions. That's why I think that their Sprint Classic is just a marketing tool, and these tyres are bought by well-to-do Jaguar owners (sorry, sorry, no insults intended). Remember, that this was the tyre of the 70s no one bought! They claim: "We've put new technology into an old design", and I really think they did, but it doesn't justify the price difference! Having said that, the Sprint+ can be bought for about 50 euros (that's about the 38 GBP you mention) and the Classic Sprint costs 150 euros (about 115 GBP). So, how can they justify the differences in bought our countries.

 

In short, I think the Sprint+ is good value for money. The Sprint Classic is a waste of money.

 

edit: you guys can type a lot faster that I can! So I hadn't read the answers about w/wheels and Sprint+ tyres. It's an interesting issue, I think: I've bought w/wheels and will be using my Sprint+ tyres again on these wheels. I've also bought inner tubes. imho, no matter what tyre brand you choose, the spokes from the w/wheel will not really close a gaps, so I think it's for certain that you'll loose air from you tyres without an inner tube.

 

Menno

Edited September 2, 2008 by Menno van Rij

[BrianC]

Just to muddy the waters a little, there are some interesting views on tyres in this Tyre Pressures thread.

[NickMorgan]

Just to muddy the waters a little, there are some interesting views on tyres in this Tyre Pressures thread.

Yes, a can of worms! I was wondering about pressures too. I tend to run mine at 30 all round. As someone else said on that thread the fronts look as though they are about to roll off the rims and anything lower. Actually on a rally last year someone saw sparks coming off a front rim during an autotest!

Michelins - I had a set of XZX on my Renault 12 when I first started to drive. No mater what I did, I couldn't get them to wear out. Sixteen years later I sold the car with the rear tyres still like new. Wouldn't want them on a TR though!

I think I am now convinced about the Sprint+ tyres. I came to the same conclusion as you Menno - the Classics seem to be a rip-off compared to the Sprint +. They can't be that different under the tread.

I run steel wheels, so don't need to worry about inner tubes.

I am off to Ireland in two weeks for a rally, so that should be a good test for my new tyres.

[Nick Webster]

I run steel wheels, so don't need to worry about inner tubes.

 

I confess to being out of TR circles for some years now, but having returned, I was surprised when I recently observed tubeless tyres (as witnessed by the valve stems) on a TR2. The rims are rivetted construction so the fact that they hold air seems to be down to a layer of paint. I would not be happy to run tubeless unless it was on a welded rim - as intended. I think this applies to the 5.5J rims on the TR6. Even so, I did once come across some early 5.5J rims intended as an option for TR4 which were rivetted. I am not sure that there is any down side to fitting tubes into so called "tubeless" tyres though it would be worth investigating each brand to see whether there are mould lines on the inside that might wear the tube by "creep". In the distant past, after actual carcass repairs were banned, the traditional way of repairing a punctured tubeless tyre was simply to fit a tube. I suspect that since many modern sizes do not have complementary tubes, the idea that ye olde TR tyre should be fitted with a tube is lost to some of our younger tyre fitters.

 

Nick

Edited September 2, 2008 by Nick Webster

[88V8]

suspect that since many modern sizes do not have complementary tubes, the idea that ye olde TR tyre should be fitted with a tube is lost to some of our younger tyre fitters.

That's a very good point.

What with chewing the chrome off the wheel nuts, jacking under the wrong part of the chassis, fitting the wrong balance weights and on the front of the rim when one wanted on the back, then overtightening the nuts with their b.....y air wrenches, one has to watch fitters like a hawk.

I also notice that some of them don't actually know how to fit a tube and ensure the valve stays aligned.

 

And some tubes come with undersize valves, something to do with foreign measurements I suppose, and companies seem not to have the appropriate valve hole liners to keep water out of the rim.

Such a shame we lost our Empire.

 

Ivor

[Kiwifrog]

I confess to being out of TR circles for some years now, but having returned, I was surprised when I recently observed tubeless tyres (as witnessed by the valve stems) on a TR2. The rims are rivetted construction so the fact that they hold air seems to be down to a layer of paint. I would not be happy to run tubeless unless it was on a welded rim - as intended. I think this applies to the 5.5J rims on the TR6. Even so, I did once come across some early 5.5J rims intended as an option for TR4 which were rivetted. I am not sure that there is any down side to fitting tubes into so called "tubeless" tyres though it would be worth investigating each brand to see whether there are mould lines on the inside that might wear the tube by "creep". In the distant past, after actual carcass repairs were banned, the traditional way of repairing a punctured tubeless tyre was simply to fit a tube. I suspect that since many modern sizes do not have complementary tubes, the idea that ye olde TR tyre should be fitted with a tube is lost to some of our younger tyre fitters.

 

Nick

 

 

Nick,

 

MWS one of the main wire wheel suppliers now sell a tubelzss version of most of their wheels. I would not run a tyre without a tube on a traditional wire wheel.

 

Cheers

 

Alan

[Don Elliott]

I have been driving with Vredestein 165 15 r Sprint + tyres for the last 20,000 miles. I would estimate they will be good for another 15,000 to 20,000 miles. They really hold well on smooth paved curves. I am surprised how well they grip. I ran some cheap Kelly-Springfield tyres before that for 17,000 miles till they wore out. Before that, I ran Michelin 165 SR 15s for 43,000 miles at which time they had ply separateion - the warning sign of one or more killer blow-outs. Comparing them all I'd go for the Vredestein Sprint + tyres again. I have steel wheels and I run them tubeless.

Edited September 3, 2008 by Don Elliott

[NickMorgan]

Thanks Don.

I was almost convinced to buy Sprint+ yesterday because of all the good reports I have read here. Then today I saw a supplier selling Spring Classics at £68 each, which is quite a bit better than the recommended £105. The Sprint + are £38 each. I much prefer the look of the Classics. Now I don't know what to do!!! Need to make a decision soon as I am off to Ireland in two weeks.

Nick

[BrianC]

Now I don't know what to do!!! Need to make a decision soon as I am off to Ireland in two weeks.

Do you want to drive on them or look at them?

Save the £150 difference and spend it on Guinness and Bushmill's

Edited September 3, 2008 by BrianC

[wriggley monkey]

Try Longstone tyres - google search will get you there - they specialise in tyres for vintage and historics. Ask for Dougal.

 

Very knowledgeable people.

[Rhodri]

There is a difference in the speed rating of the two Vredesteins, 112 mph and 130 mph. I appreciate that you may not exceed 112 mph, but I believe that a tyre with a higher rating has a better tread pattern, mix of rubber, strength etc, than a lower rated tyre. If you keep to our speed limits then I suppose that both tyres are well within their speed ranges.

Rod

[Richardtr3a]

There are some very good tyre fitters at the tyre shop at Beaulieu just near the Autojumble. I can not remember the name but they have a stand at the autojumble and are very local. They understand wire wheels and know MWS and can pull off a good deal. At last years show they had Michelin at £68.00 ,fitted with a tube which you absolutely must have with wire wheels.

 

Good luck

[NickMorgan]

There is a difference in the speed rating of the two Vredesteins, 112 mph and 130 mph. I appreciate that you may not exceed 112 mph, but I believe that a tyre with a higher rating has a better tread pattern, mix of rubber, strength etc, than a lower rated tyre. If you keep to our speed limits then I suppose that both tyres are well within their speed ranges.

Rod

Ah, thanks. I hadn't spotted that. I don't think I have had the car over 110, but that is certainly a consideration. Last night I was going for the Sprint+, then this evening the Sprint Classic, but then decided the Sprint+ would be fine. Now I am uncertain again!!!

[Don Elliott]

From a few feet away, no-one notices what is printed on the sidewalls of my Vredesteins. You have a choice of which side you prefer. I agree with Brian. For touring, go for the Sprint +. I won't buy Michelins any more since I heard that they sold the moulds to Coker in USA who have the repro Michelins made for them in Venezuela ? I think. About 10 years ago, when Coker started to sell the repros, I heard two sides of the quality issue of these tyres but the topic has not arisen recently.

[Andrew Smith]

.......Last night I was going for the Sprint+, then this evening the Sprint Classic, but then decided the Sprint+ would be fine. Now I am uncertain again!!!

 

I think I've spotted a niche market, so I've decided to start up a 'Procrastination Society' today. But, then again I might leave it until tomorrow...............

 

Cheers

Andrew

[67_gt6]

The speed rating is certainly worth bearing in mind. A few weeks into ownership of my GT6, when I was younger and more stupid, I unwittingly put a rear tyre out of round at 100+ going down the Mulsanne (ie the M9 to Stirling on a quiet Sunday morning) - I hadn't noticed that it had a lower rating than the other three corners. A bit of a brown trouser moment as GT6s need no encouragement to start steering from the rear as it is.

 

andy

[Guest colinTR2]

A very appropriate topic, I need to replace a set of v.old ZXs, one of them blew out on the M26 on the way home from IWE, fortunately the left rear. Our local village garage could only offer Camacs which I didn't fancy so following this thread I will buy Vredestein Sprint plus from Camskill, £38 delivered, and the local guy will fit them. Just one further question, my TR2 is on standard steel wheels and there is one comment to use tubes, and one not to, is the answer to fit tubes as being the lower risk?

cheers

Colin

[Don Elliott]

If you put tubes into tyres that are made and advertized as "tubeless", you will get all four of your new tyres to blow out within 400 miles. The tube rubs on the inside of the "tubeless" tyre and it will blow. I know several TR owners where this had happened.

 

My tyres are "tubeless" and I don't use tubes in my steel wheels.

 

I have 100,000 miles on my 1958 TR3A since I finished my restoration in 1990 and last month was the first time I have had a problem. I found a huge nail through the tread. giving me a very slow leak. I found it when parked at home. In these last 18 summers, I have never had a puncture on the road.

 

Check it out on line, with the experts and/or with a knowlegable tyre supplier.