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Hi all,

 

I'm fitting a new stainless exhuast and manifold, hi torque starter motor and throttle linkage on Sunday with a friend who's an experienced mechanic.

 

Is this possible in a day? Any potential problems I should be aware of?

 

Predictions welcome...

 

Thanks!

 

Eli

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Is this possible in a day?

A day gives you 24 hours so that should just about cover it :P

Rather you than me (but with a tame mechanic it could be a doddle). It probably depends on where you sourced the parts as to whether or not it all goes together without too many hitches - may the force be with you :rolleyes:.

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A day gives you 24 hours so that should just about cover it :P

Rather you than me (but with a tame mechanic it could be a doddle). It probably depends on where you sourced the parts as to whether or not it all goes together without too many hitches - may the force be with you :rolleyes:.

 

 

Thanks Brian!

 

Starter motor is TR Shop, exhaust and manifold and Jellisons and should be easy enough. Throttle linkage is from Prestige (overhead type). So all good quality parts, no concerns there.

 

My biggest worry is the starter motor, I've seen a few horror stories on here of how hard they can be to get off...

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Hi all,

 

I'm fitting a new stainless exhuast and manifold, hi torque starter motor and throttle linkage on Sunday with a friend who's an experienced mechanic.

 

Is this possible in a day? Any potential problems I should be aware of?

 

Predictions welcome...

 

Thanks!

 

Eli

 

Eli, this is probably doable in a day but my advice would be to split it into two days if you can to give yourself some wiggle room. For example if your buddy is only available on Sunday, start the tear down on Friday night or Saturday to reduce the amount of grunt work and use Sunday for the tasks that are best with two people like fitting the exhaust. Also my experience is that the more you tackle, the more likely it is that something unexpected will happen so make sure you have everything that you need and some extra's of things that you dont yet know that you will need and cant get at the local hardware store like spare manifold studs and nuts in case any are stripped or worn out, and new spring washers. Have some ziplock bags and a pen that can write on them to store small parts. It is truly amazing how these things can just walk out of the garage if not confined. Dont mix up studs and nuts without double checking that they are the same length and thread and make a note of where they came from.

 

Stan

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Hi Eli,

 

Soak everything in Plusgas, and do it NOW !!

 

Plusgas is much better than, say, WD40 when it comes to releasing long-stuck nuts.

 

To Stan's excellent list I'd add a couple of small easy-outs, in case of studs shearing.

 

6-sided sockets are better on rusty old nuts . . .

 

And make sure you have the car well supported if you have to get under and give those long-stuck nuts some serious grief.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Any potential problems I should be aware of?

 

More folklore... ?

 

I believe that at some point in production - sorry to be vague - filed this away in my disorderly mental filing system & can't remember where I read it - there was a change from a Bendix starter, to a pre-engaged.

 

Importance is that the Bendix threw into the flywheel from one direction - the gearbox side?.... and the pre-engaged threw in from the other direction - would be the engine side.... :blink:

 

The flywheel gear has a chamfer which must face in the direction of throw-in....

In consequence, on some cars the chamfer faces one way, on other cars it faces the other way.

 

I realise belatedly this would account for someone's post a while ago about their flywheel gear being 'back to front' and resulting in a damaged gear/starter/starting problems.

 

So before you try to fit the starter, check which way it throws in, and ensure your flywheel gear is compatible.

Otherwise you'll ruin either or both. :huh:

 

It also occurs to me that if I am right, it says little for the sellers who provide these starters without indicating that they are unsuitable for some cars.

 

Ivor

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I must say that in 32 years of uninterrupted TR250 ownership I've never found the original type starter deficient ( my TR4 was a different matter <_< ).

 

What's the appeal :unsure: ?

 

I admit admit that since '94 I've been running Webers and the engine fires in a fraction of a rev normally.

 

As for removal and replacement ( thankfully I've got LHD ) the tubular manifolds can make this all but impossible for the std starter, but I've found that loosening the motor mount on the offending side and jacking up the motor will afford sufficient clearance <_<

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Eli you will need to strip everything off the right hand side of the engine, inlet manifold. exhaust manifold and exhaust also drop the lower steering column UJ off the rack this will give you ample room to get to the starter. The new starter is first to go on and you will find its great fun to get the nut on the top stud of the new starter. There has been a thread about fitting these high torque starters a while ago.

Definitely a good idea if your mechanic mate can only do Sunday for you to strip as much as you can on the day before.

Stuart.

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Hi all,

 

I'm fitting a new stainless exhuast and manifold, hi torque starter motor and throttle linkage on Sunday with a friend who's an experienced mechanic.

 

Is this possible in a day? Any potential problems I should be aware of?

 

Predictions welcome...

 

Thanks!

 

Eli

 

Hi Eli

The usual good advise from the guy's is it possible ? if you had use of a ramp maybe but in Brian's time frame,just a few tip's to help you.

First of all the exhaust manifold check for flatness very few are it can take hour's of grinding and filing to get them right.

Use a quality gasket not the cheap cardboard type.

Mount the starter motor check the bolt lenth reduce if needed to ease the top bolt issue jack the engine remove engine

mounting bolt's lower jack sleightly and it will fit easily and worth fitting

 

Hope this help's ;)

 

Ntc

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Eli

 

Seems to be two types of hi-torque starters... one with just two holes for the mounting bolts in the fixing plate (as per the Lucas original) and one with a fixed stud at the top. The former is dead easy to fit, the latter is a pain in the arse.

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Thanks for the the help chaps!

 

The manifold and exhaust are 2nd hand so should fit ok. Might leave the starter motor for now as it hasn't let me down (yet!). I don't want to cook the bloody thing but I hope it's tough enough to see out the summer! The manifold I've bought is very similar to the race one moss sell on their website. Cue lots more underbonnet heat! I'm not keen on wrapping the manifold; it will have to wait until winter when I'll get it ceramic coated.

 

I've got new nuts for the manifold, will pick up some studs tomorrow am I guess... The new gasket I bought is a cardboard one, it will have to do for now. Where can I find one of the better ones for next time?

 

Thanks again!

 

Eli

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Can't do tear down beforehand as we are borrowing a garage nearby (but not near enough to push the car to!). It would make life a lot easier.

 

Ona lighter note, going to view a house with a garage tomorrow morning so hope to have a decent space to work on the car over winter before too long...

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Eli

 

Seems to be two types of hi-torque starters... one with just two holes for the mounting bolts in the fixing plate (as per the Lucas original) and one with a fixed stud at the top. The former is dead easy to fit, the latter is a pain in the arse.

 

 

Got the latter... pants! :lol:

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I've found the piece about the starter and ring gear. It was in TRaction. Must have been since December 07.

I tore out the page to keep, and there's no month on it, but it was the issue with an article about the TR7 low coolant light.

Page 31.

So, Eli, watch out. :unsure:

 

Ivor

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My helper (and garage) has dropped off the face of the earth so I'll try fitting the throttle linkage myself this afternoon.

 

I'll jack up the car and think about tackling the exhaust solo if I have time.

 

This should be interesting...

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I've done it! Malcolm's throttle linkage is on and tuned for as close to perfect butterfly operation as the car will allow. Runs perfectly, idles smoothly.

 

In one afternoon I've managed to teach myself about butterfly valves, setting the idle speed using the airbleed valve and how to remove (and refit :rolleyes: ) injectors. It feels great having done it all by myself!

 

Now, where did I put that sports manifold?... Actually, that will have to wait. I'm off to see the Spanish open up a can of woopass!

 

Eli

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