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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. I have no problems with 30W although I've personally used SAE 80 GL4 in various guises over the years. But I would do a lot of checking before I used GL5 in any viscosity.
  2. Any oil drips visible on the garage floor under the back of the car? If so it's probably a diff seal. Oil drips from under the engine / gearbox and petrol smells are pretty much a TR6 trademark.
  3. At the risk of reigniting the great TR6 gear oil debate, hypoid gear oil is generally GL5 with it's attendant material compatibility and synchromesh problems. I'd do a bit of a check around before I changed the oil specification and maybe damaged the gearbox &OD. I have an A type overdrive and it will change harshly if I really flog it, do you drive the TR6 differently to the sedan?
  4. Mike C

    Car cover

    I wouldn't get a respray until I solved the storage problem unless there are paints available now that resist the water induced micro blistering.
  5. Mike C

    Car cover

    I had the moisture problem under a good quality car cover. Over a number of years I noticed microblisters forming and wear on edges exposed to wind induced cover movement. I tried an outer cover over a new inner cover but it didn't help. Eventually I had to have the car repainted and find garage storage space. Can't help with any further advice on storing a car long term over the winter, unfortunately.
  6. Mike C

    Cold air intake

    I have a standard PI with a few mods for hill climbing. It does have more power on a cold, crisp morning. When the temperature's above 35 deg. C I'm usually heading home at a sedate pace. If I was trying to get the temperature of the inlet plenum down I'd look at an aluminum heat shield between the exhaust and inlet manifolds or maybe ceramic coating the exhaust manifold to reduce the radiation emissivity.
  7. Mike C

    Cold air intake

    I'm happy with the standard PI intake in the front RH corner just behind the grille. Some of the blokes in the SLK forum I'm in use water/methanol injection to cool the charge - but they also have changed the supercharger pulleys to get more boost resulting in higher manifold temperatures. Don't know if it would be worth the trouble in a NA TR6.
  8. In Australia I'd try British car wreckers and vintage car swap meets if I had no success here. But good luck, someone here might find something in their garage over the weekend.
  9. Sure your last fill up wasn't from a diesel pump?
  10. I'd do 2 before I cranked the engine over after stopping , then 1 then 3. For 3 you could set up a voltmeter to watch the coil input while you are driving, like you have with the timing pistol.
  11. Have you tried connecting the 2 wires from the inertia switch, bypassing it totally? Sure sounds like a wiring or electrical component intermittent connection somewhere.
  12. I did the same with a Datsun 260Z in the late 1970's -sensor in the top hose and it ran fine. My idea back in those days was this was where engine temperature was sensed by the thermostat and temperature gauge therefore it was the correct place to sense the fan control temperature. Looking back now I agree with the idea that the fan should only come on if the radiator by itself can't handle the cooling load- hence a sensor in the bottom return pipe is the way to go.
  13. Wouldn't the top hose be a better position to sense engine & cooling load ?
  14. I'm with Tim, I had exactly the same problem 3 years ago with an old Holden V8. Stopped dead on freeways after running for an hour or so at over 100kmh. Leave it for 10 minutes or so and everything was perfect again. Tried everything , as you do with these intermittent faults, eventually I mounted a new coil in a cooler position and the problem went away.
  15. Make sure the O/D is off.
  16. Mike C

    Best door mirrors

    I don't know if early cars had two. Passenger side door mirrors were unusual 50 years ago.
  17. My 1969 CP's ballast resistor is a white ceramic thing on the rear passenger side of the engine bay if this helps.
  18. I'd look at the ballast resistor and it's wiring. I made a gadget out of stuff in the shed incorporating a PVC tube with a wire from the distributor lead to earth and an adjustable spark gap at the bottom. The tube keeps light out and lets me see the spark. The adjustable gap let's me measure it's strength. But you might have to check for a spark at night if you suspect the ballast resistor.
  19. 45 years of capillary action? People might criticise Triumph's QA but there's no way the float left the factory full of petrol.
  20. No, had a look and the bend in the arm would point towards the dashboard. Besides I'm used to "flick down=higher gear".
  21. And I'd solder every connection I can, if voltage drop looks like being a problem I'd even solder wire tails to be fitted to screwed sockets.
  22. If its ant help some PO has fitted my overdrive switch to the left hand side of the steering column which allows one's right hand to stay on the wheel when engaging O/D. It works backwards-down to engage O/D- but I find this no problem .
  23. And I just checked - you have a 73 TR which should have a voltmeter and a much more direct path between the battery and alternator. I agree with you on the door cards and mirrors, visible work on the body is far more daunting and less forgiving of any mistakes.
  24. I know it's only for a short period of initial charge but I just don't want to smell cotton/rubber insulation burning behind the dashboard.
  25. I'm talking about charging current after a difficult starting episode- the current that goes to the +40 or so mark on the ammeter.
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