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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. My sliders allow much more movement on one side than the other when installed. I put it down to the production processes back in the '60's. Dedicated components weren't made RH & LH to suit the final installation.
  2. Water's getting into the gauge from rain or washing. If you have the skills to remove the gauge you would be able to replace the gaskets behind the glass. I purchased new gaskets from a UK Smiths/Jaeger specialist and followed instructions that were readily available on line. Unfortunately the link to the gauge repair instructions is in my home computer which I can't access at the moment.
  3. Cleaning in the engine bay might have disturbed the inertia switch that cuts off the pump's electrical supply. Have a look for a white cylinder next to the windscreen wiper motor- the button on top of it should be depressed.
  4. The dew point of the air in the gauge cases is higher than the glass exposed to cold outside air. Do you drive your car outside from a warm garage ?
  5. No. I paid a bit extra to get a filter from an Australian company whose filters I've been buying since the late '60's called Ryco. The filter I use is a Ryco Ryco R2132P .
  6. I was told the difference between the two CAV filters was in the adhesives used to hold the paper element in place- that was years ago when I was offered a supply of surplus CAV diesel filters cheap.
  7. And China's boycotted Australian lobsters, sending the price plummeting- I had two over Christmas.
  8. My mechanical fan provides adequate cooling during Australian summers, but I don't use the car much these days when the temperature is above 40 degrees Centigrade. But ,then again, I don't use my car where I could get stuck in traffic jams.
  9. I just make my hoses up out of high pressure Gates Barricade.
  10. Good luck. Glad I'm out of it.
  11. It may not be Brexit-CV19 is playing havoc with shipping worldwide.
  12. If you're fortunate enough to own a PI TR6 , there's nothing more useful for looking after your car than this forum.
  13. Congratulations on making good progress. Any air leaks in the inlet manifold and connected piping will make the car very hard to start. With regard to your sparks -whenever I see Lucas components in any electrical system I start fault finding by checking all relevant earths.
  14. I'd try and ensure the injector lines are fully primed. I do this by: Fresh fuel in the tank Plugs out Enrichment lever full on Crank engine. Pull on the injector tips until all air clears from the line- I hold the injectors high to help vent air and bleed into a jar until I get a good spray pattern I then reinstall the plugs and injectors without the keeper plates and start the engine. At this stage you should be able to feel the injector pulse if you have the black nylon lines. Injectors with weak pulses can be removed and bled further by pulling on the tips over a
  15. Me too , but I technically I'm told LED's don't comply with the Australian ADR's for retrofitting to vehicles which didn't have the lighting system originally designed and tested for this equipment . I'm thinking of fitting LED's from one of our local quality lighting suppliers like Narva, and seeing what happens- but to be honest I'm in no rush as I don't use the TR much at night- the hills around where it's garaged are infested with fairly large kangaroos .
  16. That's also true for Australia, unfortunately.
  17. Mike C

    Uprated clutch

    Are you sure your gearbox mounts are OK?
  18. Mike C

    Uprated clutch

    Meaning, the maximum lever movement possible with the slave cylinder will move the thrust bearing less with the pin in the outer hole, just looking at rotation & moments around the release bearing shaft.
  19. Mike C

    Uprated clutch

    Reduced throw due to reduced rotation?
  20. I assume it's firing-"the engine turns for a few revs". Maybe try to get it running for a few seconds with starting fluid( or is that startpilot?)- might free something up. Are the carb float levels correct and the floats not sticking? I don't have a carbed TR6 but that has been a problem on other cars and bikes I've owned in the past.
  21. I've got an old GMH Statesmen with speed and angle sensitive steering. Like Stuart says it's basically electronic- signals from the speedometer and body control module feed into pulsing solenoids and a rotary throttling valve that reduces the amount of power assist at high speed and increase it at high speed/parking. The Statesman might be old but it's 24 years younger than my TR6. I can't see how variable ratio steering can be easily adapted into a TR6's basically mechanical systems.
  22. I'm also a fan of parking with the passenger side doors of the adjacent cars facing facing me.
  23. I use non setting sealant both sides. You want to check the housing mating faces for pitting and incipient porosity- I've had to replace one or two housings over the years.
  24. When I see the word "intermittent" I think electrical, especially Lucas electrical. From memory, 3rd and 4th have the same interlock switch on the selector shafts and maybe the switch on second went first? Unless I see my solenoid light on I assume any failure of the O/D to activate has an electrical cause. If the O/D should work in 2nd then its an A type. Maybe Ernest should start by checking the G/B oil level and if that's OK, unscrew the large brass plug and check the filter and oil for metallic particles.
  25. " I am assuming a possible electrical problem from the OD itself to the power supply."- my electrical problems were so bad I installed the O/D solenoid "power on" light to check the wiring and switch under actual operating conditions. I think I've fixed all the electrical problems by now but it's still reassuring to see the light on when I switch on the O/D
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