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About The_Doc

  • Birthday 09/07/1985

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  • Cars Owned:
    1966 Triumph Tr4A (Solid Axle), 1926 Alvis 12/50 (in pieces), 1973 MGB GT, Triumph Street Triple R.

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  1. OK, is it just me, but when trying to fit the BMH panels brought from Moss and Rimmer, I've noticed nothing fits without quite extensive fitment and modification. This has included heating bits up and reshaping using a hammer. Is it just me, or do other people seem to find the same thing? Something must be wrong at their factory as I don't think their products quite reflect the so-called quality they seem to exude in their adverts. What are other peoples experiences? Thanks Adam
  2. Hi All A very quick question; does anyone know if the metal dash is different between the TR4 and the TR4A (aside from the fact the TR4A has the additonal veneered bit)? I want to put a TR4 metal dash on a TR4A and need to make sure the instruments and switches will still all fit. As usual, thank you all in advance!!! Adam
  3. Hello (again) All I have a choice between putting in a J-Type or A-Type overdrive in my restoration project. I was just wondering what peoples thoughts on are this are. I know the A-Type is the correct OD, but is the J-Type a better unit to have? I will keep both units with the car so the next owner (if I ever do sell it!) can change it if they so wish. I have heard that the J-type is the better one to have in your car and use; the A-type can be slower to engage/disengage as well as being more tempremental. Of course, the J-type will give a higher drop in RPM, but I'm guessing going fr
  4. Hi All I was wondering what people thoughts were on lightening the flywheel of my 4A. Currently the flywheel, including ring gear, is approx. 23 lbs. I'm not looking to go down the competition route so don't need to get it down to a couple of lbs. However, it would be nice to try and increase the responsivness of the car, but not sacrafice the tick over at idle. Is there an ideal amount to shave off or is it better to leave it stock? Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome. Thanks Adam
  5. Thanks all for your thoughts and advice. I'm now the proud owner of a surrey top - Iif only I could just get the car finished.... Adam
  6. Hi All With my ongoing TR4A rebuild, I've been offered an 'original' surry top and the rear frame and roof are aluminium. What are the things I should look out for? Yes it may cost me an arm and a leg, but what are peoples veiws on this; is a Surry top a definete must for a TR4/4A or does it not make a huge difference? Is it better to go without and simply be fully exposed to the wind? I'd appricate peoples thoughts on the different driving experiences; with an without. Thanks Adam
  7. Thanks for all the advice. The weakest point to me seems to be right in the middle, so it seems sensible to try attach something to the outriggers and perhaps brace these to the back of the chassis somehow. Since I don't have IRS, then there is more space around my chassis to perhaps attempt soemthing like this. Adam
  8. Hello All, In my rebuild of my own TR4A (one with a solid rear axle), I have been doing some reading and it seems that there is some critism over the strength of the chassis. The TR4 appears to have a slightly better chassis in that it is more rigid, which is no real suprise as the TR4A chassis does come in at the back by the breast plates and where the prop shaft passes through it. I was wondering, has anyone else found any issues with the TR4A's chassis and if so is there a good way to provide more rigidity to calm the twisting/flexing of the chassis. I just thought that whilst e
  9. Hi Roger Yes I am now convinced it's a reproduction pump. I've had the car for about two years but it was (and still is) a wreck, so I've got no idea as to what was done, I just assumed it had been parked up since the 70's, mind you there are tell-tale signs to show someone's pissed about with things. Thanks Adam
  10. Hi All I took apart my fuel pump today, from a 1966 TR4A and I have bought a kit to refurbish it. When I look at the pictures in the TR4/4A workshop manuel, it shows quite a few bits that I don't have, for example, I don't have a valve retaining plate, or a place to even screw in the screws. I also don't have the seals at the bottom of the pump. I just wanted to make sure this was normal, or have I aquired a funny fuel pump? Thanks Adam
  11. Hi Graeme I have recently done what you're doing now. I took my TR4A gearbox and put on a J-Type OD. I bought the J-Type OD as a complete unit on a Dolomite Sprint gearbox since I needed to change the main shafts over. So I took the main shaft from the Dolomite Sprint gear box and put that into my old TR4A gear box. The real problem I had was that where the main shaft mates with the input shaft, the sizes were different as the Dolly gear box was later when they decided to swap to metric gauges. I had a sleeve made to fit onto of the end of the main shaft to increase it's diameter slightly
  12. I have recently rebuilt a TR4A gearbox (non-overdrive) and added on a J-type overdrive onto it. I bought an old Dolomite Sprint gearbox that had the J-type over drive on it, that I could then swap over. The things I found were that the gear ratios were different, you can do your own snaity check by counting the teeth on the cogs on the lay shaft and doing a couple of sums. The input shaft for the salon cars also seem to be different as Bob has pointed out above, and there was problems with the gauges used, i.e. the main shaft was metric, which meant I have to have a sleeve made and pressed ont
  13. Thanks all for the replies. In all honesty, I do see your point Dave and actually there is part of me that agrees with you. However, I don't see much wrong with trying to squeeze a bit more power out of the engine. In my mind I thought the 87 mm piston and liner set would be a good compromise. The one thing I am upgrading is the distributor and ignition coil to a Lumanition Optotronic system, after researching this, it seems you will get a huge gain from simply improving the spark. Adam
  14. Hello In my continuing battle against my wreck of a TR4A, I've reached the engine rebuild and I wanted to see the opinion of people with a lot more experience then me. I believe the TR4 engine comes with 86 mm liners/pistons. Is there any advantage to going for a wider bore, the most common seem to be 87 mm or 89 mm? Also if I wanted to put in an 89 mm set, what other things will I need to consider? Would I have to make sure the original engine bores are the stanadered size? Would these have ever been bored out (without the wet liners)? I know that you can buy the different set
  15. Sorry for the late reply Colt. I actually bought an old gear box from a dolimite sprint that had a J-type OD on it. I am hoping to just just chuck away the dolimite gearbox and then fit the J-type overdirve stright onto my Tr4 gearbox. After a very quick inspection, I think everything fits, I need to obviously change the main shaft, but this shoudl all be do-able. To get it to fit into the car, you need to mount it correctly and Rimmer do sell a conversion bracket that might help (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID200129). Other then that things are fairly simple I believe and most probl
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