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Jean-Marie Raedts

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About Jean-Marie Raedts

  • Birthday 08/19/1947

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  1. Of course, I will enjoy the car in the meantime. Jean-Marie
  2. Thank you all. I made an appointment with my TR mechanical specialist who apparently saw this problem several times. I have to wait 6 weeks given his current busy schedule.
  3. The left door of my TR4A hangs down, which results in a bad closing. I can lift the door 10 mm upwards by the handle without the car moving itself. As can be seen in the attached photos, both taken from the same position, there is a crack in the sheet metal. The second picture gives more detail. How is this best repaired? Probably this will involve welding. What tips can be given to a garage that is not familiar with a TR4A door? Do new reinforcement pieces have to be made which are then welded into the opening to be made? Is a proper repair possible without having to repaint the door
  4. Thank you Chris for your reply. I swapped the assembly, but as already said, I had to adjust the timing (more than 10°!). This is of course not that practical when it should be done during a trip. I want to avoid always carrying the stroboscoop in the boot of my car. While both base plates with their own points and capacitor may have their own position for correct timing, I consider to investigate if I can mark this position on the side bottom of the distributor. It should be accurate enough to bring me home without adjusting it by the stroboscoop. Jean-Marie
  5. An easy repair on the points and/or condensor should be swapping the baseplate of the distributor (25D4). I tried it at home but had to set the timing again. I have to admit that it was some years ago that I bought that baseplate and I'am not sure that it was adjusted at that time correctly. Has the timing to be adjusted after swapping the base plate? Is swapping the contact plate a better solution? Swapping the contact plate is anyhow not that straight forward or may the spring underneath be deformed in my case? Thanks for an answer. Jean-Marie
  6. Thank you for your reply. The strange man is indeed a TR'er! Jean-Marie
  7. I got the car back and wonder if the seats are not switched from position while I have problems touched the hood mechanism when tilting the seats. In attachment, you find a picture. It is a Left Hand drive car. Thanks for your reply. Jean-Marie
  8. I will let renew the black leather seats, black doorpanels and black hood stowage cover of my TR4A. Does someone has pictures of the correct white piping of the leather seats and the hood cover for a TR4A? I found in the book "Original Triumph' of Bill Piggott the attached picture of the seats. The workshop will make what I ask for, is this the correct configuration I should ask for? Is there also a white piping on the backside of the seat as some TR4 seats have (it is not visible on the picture)? The other picture is my existing Hood Cover, does it has the correct piping config
  9. Thank you all for your reply. In the weekend, I toke off the pulley of the installed alternator and put the groove of it in the belt and mounted the pulley back on the axis of the Dynalite. Not so complicated. I appreciate the suggestion of Rob and Tim. After the holiday period, I will follow both advises. Now the real test will be if the Dynalite will survive after the long drive first to the south of France and then towards the Stelvio in Italy. Mostly it is very hot over there in summertime and when queuing the overheating starts. I discovered already that the two layer heatshield I install
  10. Many thanks for the feedback. I learned that the outside diameter of the Dynalite (106 mm) is increased versus the Lucas C40 (102,7 mm or 104 mm as calculated by Tim). This makes it more difficult, impossible up to now, to mount the wide belt. I didn't try yet the notched belt I have, but will do it during the next weekend. I hope that I can manage it by taking off the pulley, putting it in the belt and then mount the pulley back on the Dynalite axis. Otherwise a pulley with a smaller outside diameter of a slightly longer belt would solve the problem, but both alternatives are not feasible whi
  11. After installing a heatshield between the exhaust manifold and the dynamo/alternator location, I mounted my new Dynalite (alternator in dynamo housing). To put on the original fat (wide) belt, the alternator has to be pivoted towards the engine block. Even when the alternator touch the engine, I cannot put on the belt on the original pulley. Does it means that the outside diameter of the Dynalite, 106 mm, is bigger than the outside diameter of the original Lucas C40 dynamo? My after market dynamo has only one outside diameter (102,2 mm), but I know that the original Lucas C40 is slightly dif
  12. It looks anyhow that your battery was drained, which also can happen by an alternator if it fails. Dodgy contacts can indeed be the culprit but do you have a heatshield between the exhaust manifold and the alternator? As you can find in many treads on this forum, this heatshield is highly recommended to avoid 'cooking' your alternator. I understood that you were stuck in long traffic jams, so the temperature will have been high in the engine bay. Is it possible that the alternator failed temporarily? Jean-Marie
  13. I had the same phenomenon 2 times in Italy after standing in a traffic jam for a long time. My car has a dynamo and during the queuing time the electric fan (and the lights) had completely drained the battery. The voltage of the battery had dropped and the instruments on the dashboard went to their zero positions. Of course the fan stopped and a little while later the radiator boiled over. Luckily I was able to drive on the roadside lane to the parking lot where the engine was cooled during that drive. After cooling down and filling up the radiator, the battery was recuperated and everything w
  14. Rob, Thanks for your input. I still have some time, but will fit a regular alternator and a heat shield. Jean-Marie
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