kcsun

Love the colour, RHD in France is a pain on the peage without a tag or a passenger ENJOY kc

Nothing is ever simple in this world now kc

Update for you As Roger said I checked the wire from the starter motor, which fell apart when I touched it, remade the connection ---- and no difference. So last night I put my large battery charger on the battery (up till then I had only been using my small trickle charger (which always lit up to say the battery was fully charged!!) anyway went out to garage this evening, connected the battery and whoosh -- started first time Battery obviously was never fully charged as Graham and Brian suggested Will check everything more fully tomorrow but think it is cured (note to self - never trust the green light on a trickle charger, no it wasn't a C-Tek) kc

Thanks for your replies, will check the battery after work tomorrow, i will charge it up and connect my "jump pack" to the battery to add a bit of boost and see what happens I was thinking about the ballast resistor, there is a 12v link wire from the starter motor shown on the wiring diagram, but I do not know where to find the resistor or the "connector block" shown in the wiring diagrams kc

Hi all, went to the garage to start the car and it won't start! It is a 73 PI CR engine with a Luminition system which I fitted 5 years ago and has worked perfectly until now. I turn the ignition on and there is 12v at the coil, I then start churning the starter motor and the voltage at the coil drops to about 9 - 9.5v. The engine does not fire, when I release the ignition switch the engine fires on the release and tries to start???? If it fires successfully the engine runs OK. I do not think there is any spark while the starter is churning but is a bit difficult to see as I have only one pair of arms!! I am assuming it then sparks as the ignition switch is released any ideas?? kc

I would take the fuel filter out and check it, it only takes 10 minutes. When I fitted my new pump I was collecting loads of debris from the inside of the tank even though I had thoroughly cleaned it out. kc

Just read this about Meguiars No7 Meguiar’s #7 Show Car Glaze is a true high-yield polish with no protective qualities. Be certain to follow application with a coat of top-quality wax such as Meguiar’s Premium Paint Protection or Meguiar’s Hi-Tech Paste Wax #26. The rich emollients and nourishing oils in #7 Show Car Glaze produce a very deep, heavy mirror-gloss shine. #7 is safe to use on all paints and clear coats. FYI kc

Thats it, I can see it now. Good luck and hope it sells quickly for you kc

Well I tried to look at your photos but I could not get rid of all adverts popping up in front of the photos. I am not in the market for purchasing your car but I thought i would let you know in case someone who is interested gives up, due to all the advertising on your weblink kc

YAY thanks for the tips, I cut a "C" shape in a thin piece of ply and used the insulation off of a piece of wire to hold the pin to get it started, then a quick shove with a long allen key and hey presto all done!! Another satisfied forum user!!! kc

How do people put those pesky retaining pins in the handles??? Any tips or tricks appreciated? kc

agree with the above, mine is like a drum when I finally wrestle it into position. My capping has also suffered with the dragging of the catches kc

98 octane petrol is also a lot less likely to go stale and improve your chances of a quick start in the spring kc

I note that some of you are saying that insurers won't pay out if you have old tyres???? Is there an actual law that states you cannot drive on tyres that are older than.......... Is it an MOT failure to have tyres that are just too old but meet all the other checks??? (before you flame me, I am driving all my cars on newish tyres, I understand that tyres deteriorate and are useless after 20ish years etc etc) kc

+1 for Lumenition kc