RogerH Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Hi Folks, whilst the 4A is in dock I'm working my round it to winkle out all the little problems. The diff is leaking oil on the offside output shaft. Can the seal be replaced insitu? Roger PS - I've done a search but couldn't get anywhere Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 (edited) You will need to undo the 4 bolts holding the stub shaft assy into the diff. (1/2" AF spanner size - I use a thin wall ring spanner as an open ender just ruins the hex heads.) The shaft assembly will then come out with the use of a hide mallet, as the bearing is a snug fit in the diff casing. NB The shaft assemblies are handed left and right by virtue of being different lengths. THEN Undo the big nut holding the drive flange then pull the flange off the taper. You can of course try to undo the flange nut with it all assembled in the axle if you have sufficient swinging room and a way of stopping the rest of the diff from rotating. Haynes instruction now - "after removing nut just press off the taper fitted flange from the stub shaft" Enjoy.....I have managed to do it with the big screw press I own that is ex US Army circa 1944 and was designed to remove Sherman tank drive wheels - don't ask..... When at C&B we used to pay a man with a 10 ton press to give them a whack. Worked every time without damage. Next trick will be to polish the seal land on the flange, remove seal, note which way round it went, replace and reassemble the whole lot perhaps with a new bearing if you suspect that was the reason the seal was leaking. The bearing is a fairly ordinary ball type. The horror now is holding the stub shaft from turning whilst undoing or tightening the flange nut. I have a diff planet gear (the bit the shaft fits into) with two flats ground on it to hold in a vice for this very task. Once the flange is off, pushing the bearing off the shaft is simple. Let me know if you want to borrow the mullered planet gear or swing by for a bit of 'screw puller action'. I used to do an exchange service on these things when at C&B in the '80s. Cheers Peter W Edited July 27, 2014 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Hi Pete, many thanks for your in depth reply. I'll have a go and see what happens - expect a call Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Just go and see Pete. These things were impossibly tight on mine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wheeler Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Hi Roger I have a puller to remove the flange from the taper ( made by TVG member Mark the blacksmith) several of us have used it successfully to replace the diff seals, you are very welcome to borrow it. Cheers Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Hi Bill, PM sent Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 (edited) Hi Roger. I struggled to separate the tapers when I did this on my 6 recently. Then I came up with a cunning plan, bolt the two stubs together in opposition and tighten until one lets go. Then using washers and a suitably sized socket repeat for the other ! See attached pic, it worked a treat :-) Steve Edited June 16, 2019 by Steves_TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Hi Steve, clever thinking I'm only doing one at present (I know that is stupid - and I'll end up doing both anyway). But it is food for thought. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Only one of mine was leaking, but it's an easy job so do both ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Roger,you have a PM. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Great trick that, bolting them back-to-back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Hi Niall, many thanks for the pics - quite frightening. Before I go to a 10/20 ton press I shall try either Bill's puller or Steve's back to back fittings. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 All sorted. Using Bill's puller the shaft shot out of the body with little fuss. The old seal was well worn. The seal fitted nicely and felt much more secure. Interestingly the plate that attaches to the diff doesn't have a gasket - hmm. So I used an nice layer of hylomar. Even with a goodish leak the diff was still quite full of oily substances. With the correct tools this job is easy peasy. Tomorrow the engine comes out in order to fit the gearbox!!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Roger,did you have to Pull the Flange off of the Shaft to Replace the Seal??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 Hi Niall, ref the parts pic from Moss www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=2355 The flange (44) was pulled off the shaft (46). This allowed the seal (49) to be renewed in the bearing housing (51). With Bill's simple puller it worked a treat. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted August 2, 2014 Report Share Posted August 2, 2014 As Victor Meldrew would of said"I don't believe it" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanG Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 Hi Roger. I struggled to separate the tapers when I did this on my 6 recently. Then I came up with a cunning plan, bolt the two stubs together in opposition and tighten until one lets go. Then using washers and a suitably sized socket repeat for the other ! See attached pic, it worked a treat :-) image.jpg Steve Just done this and it worked a treat Thanks Steve. Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted December 9, 2015 Report Share Posted December 9, 2015 Rodger, doo em both while its in bits. tiptoptip, some times the flange is rusted / pitted, or got a groove worn init, if this is so, then some of the newer type seals that are v nara, compared to the OE leather seals, and they dont seal v well there is plenty of room to get 2 seals in there, so it,ll never leak Your v lucky it come off easily, ye seen what happend to the one every one was commenting on aboot using supa glue or JB Weld.!!! M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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