Steve_Dyne Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 Hi all, I've been tracking various rattles and bangs down in the rear axle area for a while and have just got round to taking the rear lever arm shocks off. Now I have, I'm not sure what I should expect. I know this is hard to do by description, but I can move the arms in both directions fairly easily by hand. There is however a steady resistance to movement in both directions. How can I tell whether this resistance is strong enough? Any way of testing "bump" resistance as opposed to steady motion? Anybody able to quantify or describe what a good 'un feels like? What is positive is that they both feel the same. Is it worth refurbishing the shocks anyway while I've got them off, and if so to what extent - oil change, renew valves/springs etc? What I have found is that the link joints are pretty shot - especially the top one which joins to the arm itself, so even if the shocks are OK the exercise will be worthwhile! As ever, grateful for any shared experience! Cheers, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 just to descibe: I need a 1m extension to move my lever arm. If I move the arm at the shock it would take long for a full bump...BUT they are for racing purpose. Cheers Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ade-TR4 Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 I can only just move my lever arms by hand (They are uprated twin-valve type). The standard single valve shocks can be moved by hand. There should be a stiff a constant pressure throughout the range of movement. Sounds like yours are fine. cheers Ade Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve_Dyne Posted February 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 Thanks, Chris and Ade, It does sound as if they're OK - the fact that they behaved similarly was encouraging, but it's nice to get confirmation. All I've got to do now is persuade the links to come out of the hole in the end of the lever arms... Cheers, Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JRCWeedon Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 Hi Where the links attach to the shocker is a taper fit so you will need to be fairly brutal to get them out. When fitting the new ones be sure to have the suspension at normal ride height before tightening up or it causes stresses on the rubber bushes and they eventually fail. Good Luck John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 It does sound as if they're OK - the fact that they behaved similarly was encouraging, but it's nice to get confirmation. You might need new oil. I would suggest a 90 or 140 gearbox oil. Best is a ISO VG 320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted February 16, 2007 Report Share Posted February 16, 2007 The banging that you were getting was caused by loose bolts holding the shock to the frame support. Normally, bolts are meant to secure two parts together in tension - like all the manifold and head bolts. But in this case, the force is in shear - not the best for bolts. If the bolt is even a bit loose, the lever arm wants to move up when you drive over a small bump. But the whole shock rotates. You only need to make sure that the bolts are tight. Or else the hole in the frame support will start to become oval. These bolts are hard to get a socket on to hold one end while you tighten from under and behind the frame support. What I did was have a friend who owns a lathe make me 4 tubes about 1.3" long and I changed the holding bolts by 1.3" longer. I use these spacers somewhat like flat washers, only they are much thicker than flat washers. Now the bolt head is well clear of the shock body and I can tighten them very securely. Mine don't bang any more. If they do, it's a simple matter (and quick) to tighten them again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve_Dyne Posted February 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2007 Hi Don, Thanks for the feedback - I did have one of the shocks come loose as you describe when we were touring in Italy last year - it's very noticeable and very hard to ignore when it happens! And you are so right about the difficulty in getting anything on to the bolt heads because they are so near the shock body. I like the "tube/washer" idea very much and will look at using that when I put everything back together. Regards, Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted February 18, 2007 Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 Hi Don, Thanks for the feedback - I did have one of the shocks come loose as you describe when we were touring in Italy last year - it's very noticeable and very hard to ignore when it happens! And you are so right about the difficulty in getting anything on to the bolt heads because they are so near the shock body. I like the "tube/washer" idea very much and will look at using that when I put everything back together. Regards, Steve Always use a spring washer under the bolt head and use "Lock & Seal" (from Loctite) on the thread of the bolts - it will prevent vibration loosening them. I use Lock & Seal on everything which doesn't have a Nyloc nut - saves a lot of bother, and there is no problem undoing the bolt should you need to. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted February 18, 2007 Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 I use an impact screwer to tighten the bolts...AND loctite. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 19, 2007 Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 What I did was have a friend who owns a lathe make me 4 tubes about 1.3" long and I changed the holding bolts by 1.3" longer. I use these spacers somewhat like flat washers, only they are much thicker than flat washers. Now the bolt head is well clear of the shock body and I can tighten them very securely. Mine don't bang any more. If they do, it's a simple matter (and quick) to tighten them again. Always use a spring washer under the bolt head and use "Lock & Seal" (from Loctite) on the thread of the bolts - it will prevent vibration loosening them. I use Lock & Seal on everything which doesn't have a Nyloc nut Always use a spring washer under the bolt head and use "Lock & Seal" (from Loctite) on the thread of the bolts - it will prevent vibration loosening them. I use Lock & Seal on everything which doesn't have a Nyloc nut - saves a lot of bother, and there is no problem undoing the bolt should you need to. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 19, 2007 Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 What I did was have a friend who owns a lathe make me 4 tubes about 1.3" long and I changed the holding bolts by 1.3" longer. I use these spacers somewhat like flat washers, only they are much thicker than flat washers. Now the bolt head is well clear of the shock body and I can tighten them very securely. Mine don't bang any more. If they do, it's a simple matter (and quick) to tighten them again. Always use a spring washer under the bolt head and use "Lock & Seal" (from Loctite) on the thread of the bolts - it will prevent vibration loosening them. I use Lock & Seal on everything which doesn't have a Nyloc nut Always use a spring washer under the bolt head and use "Lock & Seal" (from Loctite) on the thread of the bolts - it will prevent vibration loosening them. I use Lock & Seal on everything which doesn't have a Nyloc nut - saves a lot of bother, and there is no problem undoing the bolt should you need to. This is starting to sound like the Four Yorkshiremen sketch!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve_Dyne Posted February 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 Thanks for all the advice - anything that makes these bolts stay put when they're meant to is useful. BTW belated thanks also to John Weedon. I used Duck Oil on them and left for 24 hours, and while it still needed a fair swipe to shift the tapers it wasn't brutal. I've only recently come across Duck Oil (from Swarfega I think), but I find the stuff really useful. I'm just at the refitting stage now, so I'll take heed of the advice about the suspension. Cheers, Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted February 19, 2007 Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 Hope its all back together for the Bunny Run ( preferably without skinned knuckles) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve_Dyne Posted February 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 I'm sure it will be, Mike - along with my new battery disconnect which arrived today after two weeks! Don't know why it took so long, but Joe in the US is brilliant when it comes to communication. My lad, Richard, will hopefully also be with us in his Cobra - we can hold back a bit so he can keep up! Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike ellis Posted February 22, 2007 Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 I use an Allen headed bolt, use of an Allen key makes tightening/undoing much easier. Not original but more practical. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve_Dyne Posted February 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2007 Hi Mike, That's a great idea - I'll take a look at changing mine sometime, but as it happens I put everything back together this afternoon, and took the car for a run. What a difference the new links made!!! The old ones didn't actually feel that bad 'til I got the new ones from Moss which were solid as rocks. All the bumps and rattles gone - amazing! BTW, John Weedon's point about tightening up at normal ride height was important. I actually experimented a bit and it makes quite a difference to the stress on the link joints. Wasn't sure how to do it, so I measured the ride height with the car on the wheels, jacked up again, took the wheel off, lowered the drum on to packing which gave me the same ride height - and the weight of the car was acting on the suspension as normal. Seemed to work... Cheers all, Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.