Grease in Rear Brake Drum

[PaulR]

Was carrying out a few checks prior to Drive It Day and found quite a large quantity of grease (see photo, although I have wiped some away) over the brake shoes. Can only assume it has come from the hub but never having taken the rear hub apart I don't know where the seals would be. Anybody got any ideas where it has come from & what I need to do?

Thx in advance

Paul

[RogerH]

Hi Paul,

 remove the shoes and clean it down as best you can.

Refit the wheel and rotate the wheel whilst keeping your hand on the tyre.

Can you hear or feel a noise from the bearing - if yes, you will need a new hub.

Then hold the tyre at the 12 & 6-o-clock position and give it a good waggle.  Did you feel any play (there should be absolutely none)

If you could feel play then you need a new hub.

 

Moss sell their own new build hubs that work well.

Bastuk make new hubs that probably work well.  Both these are to the original design.

Others have converted to CV joints.

Roger

 

 

 

 

 

[RobH]

Er - is this a solid axle '4 Paul as your avatar data implies, not a '4A ?

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

11 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Paul,

 remove the shoes and clean it down as best you can.

Refit the wheel and rotate the wheel whilst keeping your hand on the tyre.

Can you hear or feel a noise from the bearing - if yes, you will need a new hub.

Then hold the tyre at the 12 & 6-o-clock position and give it a good waggle.  Did you feel any play (there should be absolutely none)

If you could feel play then you need a new hub.

 

Moss sell their own new build hubs that work well.

Bastuk make new hubs that probably work well.  Both these are to the original design.

Others have converted to CV joints.

Roger

 

 

 

 

 

Is this car a TR4 with a rigid axle or a TR4A with wobbly rear axle?

If the latter Roger has stated correctly above.

if TR4 then a couple of issues pop up.

1. when did the grease nipple behind the axle hub flange get pumped full of grease?  Might just have been over lubricated.

2. The end float of the axle shafts needs checking and correcting.   Jack up both sides and push/pull one side.   The movement in total should be 0.004-0.006 inch   That’s a couple of hair’s thickness, so not felt by hand.

3. The outer hub seal needs renewing - not a simple task as the drive flange needs to be removed from the axle shaft without bending the flange.  Special tool required.  Do not go at it with a legged puller, or power press and two bars.

4. I have never seen a rear hub bearing failure on this type of axle.   That does not mean that it can’t.

[John Morrison]

That’s a colossal amount of grease to end up there.

If the car is a solid axle then not too onerous to pull the driveshaft and change both the oil seal and if needed bearing.just undo lock tabs and six bolts on the back keep all the shims in the same order 

my money would be on over enthusiastic greasing of the nipple on the end of the axle 

what’s the other side like?

John

[stuart]

I would go with over enthusiastic greasing too, seen it a few times, remove linings and clean everything up wash linings off in petrol and allow to dry off in the sun then refit and do a few miles and then check again. If you again have grease then yes the seal will need replacing as described by Peter above.

Stuart.

[Lebro]

2 hours ago, John Morrison said:

That’s a colossal amount of grease to end up there.

If the car is a solid axle then not too onerous to pull the driveshaft and change both the oil seal and if needed bearing.just undo lock tabs and six bolts on the back keep all the shims in the same order 

my money would be on over enthusiastic greasing of the nipple on the end of the axle 

what’s the other side like?

John

Easy to pull the shaft out, but to change the seal which has failed (between bearing & backplate) the hub needs to separated from the half shaft as Perter said above. NOT EASY ! you do need the special splitter, & a very big hammer 

Bob

Edited April 15 by Lebro

[stuart]

7 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Easy to pull the shaft out, but the change the seal which has failed (between bearing & backplate) the hub needs to separated from the half shaft as Perter said above. NOT EASY ! you do need the special splitter, & a very big hammer 

Bob

I do have the right Churchill tool to pull the hubs but even with that theyre a struggle.

Stuart.

[Lebro]

Agreed !

Bob

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

5 minutes ago, Lebro said:

Agreed !

Bob

Agreed also.

I found benefit in leaving the axle in the car when using the tool.  You then have the axle shaft supported.  Ohh and take the washer out from under the nut or you do not know the taper has separated.  Fitting a short length of the correct diameter steel rod in the split pin hole or the force on the end of the shaft wilt deform it.

[Lebro]

1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Take the washer out from under the nut or you do not know the taper has separated.

Fitting a short length of the correct diameter steel rod in the split pin hole or the force on the end of the shaft wilt deform it.

Above most important. I left the washer in place on the 1st side, & yes, I did not notice that the hub has separated, & carried on abusing it !

Bob

[PaulR]

Hi All

Thx for the replies

The car is a 4 not 4a so has solid axle

Hopefully over enthusiastic grease gun as otherwise sounds a bit of a 'mare

Only appeared on the off side

Have cleaned it all out so will give her a run on DiD and check after

[Lebro]

If it's anything like mine, I had the same, probably through over greasing, once the grease breaks through, the seal is permanantly deformed, & the grease just keeps on commin'

I went through 2 or 3 "clean it up & hope for the best" cycles before biting the bullet & replacing the seals on both sides. I did not pull the halfshaft, & did not change the inner seals (between diff, & wheel bearing.  All well now. (fingers crossed)

Bob