Stuck Cylinder Head

[Dex]

Can anyone give me advice on how to get my head to come free from the block. All the nuts are off ..the rocker gear is off and it refuses to budge ( gentle tapping only used by a block of wood and a 2lb hammer).

I have put the plugs back in and cranked it by hand to try to "blow" it off, but to no avail.

I was wondering two things:

 

1. Would it be ok to refit the starter refit the plugs and whizz it over that way ..maybe faster spinning would free it, or should I say only fit three of the plugs...each end and one near the centre... bearing in mind that without rocker gear each cylinder will be on comression when the piston rises.

 

2. How about rigging up some kind of lifting kit using either the three studs that are used to hold down the rocker cover or using some of the studs that fasten the rocker gear.

 

Any help will be appreciated, sorry if I've rambled on a bit.

 

Thanks in anticipation

Dex

[john.r.davies]

Dex,

Take the studs out.

A head is rarely 'frozen' to the block, and even the traditional freeing methods - oil in the chamber etc. - will only move it a fraction, make a mess and cause damage. The hold up is **** down the stud holes in the head.

 

Stud removing methods:

1/ double nutting - barely room for two nuts and it usually only b*gg*rs the threads anyway.

2/ Stud extractor - may b*gg*r the threads, unless you have a fancy stud extractor.

3/ The Weapon of Stud Extraction. WELD the nuts to the top of the studs. You should fit new studs anyway!

 

Good luck!

 

John

[Rhodri]

If the head is "stuck" to the block then I have shifted heads by using your plugs in method and turning the engine on the starter motor- all the plugs in and screw the nuts on the studs a few turns to prevent the head coming up too far- unlikely. If it still won't slide up the studs then, as John suggests, it's studs out.java script:emoticon(

[trtom]

Agree with john, remove the studs, its the safest way. Hope all goes well

 

Tom

[Richard Crawley]

I had the same problem & can confirm that the easiest way is to remove the studs. Be careful not to overdo the brute force when removing the studs; I had 3 that initially wouldn’t budge but after lots of hammering, wiggling, soaking & a bit of heat, 2 came out clean but the 3rd snapped off, flush with the top of the head, leaving it still firmly stuck to the block!

 

After a lot of buggering about, I managed to get just enough clearance to unscrew the head from the block (it was fitted to a bare chassis). Nothing would shift the remains of the stud & I had to drill it out. To err on the safe side, I replaced all of the studs when I rebuilt my engine.

[Dex]

Thanks guys.

 

Yippee the head is off, I used the studs out method, incidentally I got them out by cutting a 7/16UNF nut in half and locking the halves onto the stud, as like John said there isn't really enough room for 2 nuts.

After a little bit if percussion persuasion it gave up.

 

Thanks again

Dex

[Richard Crawley]

Thanks guys.

 

Yippee the head is off, I used the studs out method, incidentally I got them out by cutting a 7/16UNF nut in half and locking the halves onto the stud, as like John said there isn't really enough room for 2 nuts.

After a little bit if percussion persuasion it gave up.

 

Thanks again

Dex

Good news then Dex!

[Andy Moltu]

When you reassemble it - a little cooperslip on the threads and the shaft of the studs will help make it easier next time.

[jean]

Where did I hear about the rope procedure ??? I think the method is used in the U.S. but does anyone know if it's used on this side of the water.

Jean

[BrianC]

Where did I hear about the rope procedure ???

It was on one of these TRR forums but I can't find it (hint to Webby - we really do need a better search engine!!).

Anyway, I think it was just a cleaner version of the 'oil in chamber' method, but I've never tried it.

[Guest hottr6]

Where did I hear about the rope procedure ??? I think the method is used in the U.S. but does anyone know if it's used on this side of the water.

Jean

 

Easy. Make a noose, throw the noose over a beam in the garage. Pull up a chair underneath the noose and... Well, that will work if the following technique does not:

 

Pull the plugs with pistons at BDC, feed a rope through the plug ports, rotate crank. POP!

 

Shane Ingate in Maryland

[john.r.davies]

DON'T!

Edited November 7, 2006 by john.r.davies

[Richard Crawley]

DON'T!

That's what I thought could happen & the trick certainly would not have shifted my head!

[Tom Fremont]

the trick certainly would not have shifted my head!

" Make a noose, throw the noose over a beam in the garage. Pull up a chair underneath the noose and... "

 

Actually, I thought the above method 100% effective

[Richard Crawley]

" Make a noose, throw the noose over a beam in the garage. Pull up a chair underneath the noose and... "

 

Actually, I thought the above method 100% effective

 

Sort of invited that one didn’t I! I agree it will work as long as the head moves but if it doesn’t, you could end up damaging something up at the top end. Driving a piston into a lump of rope, or worse, into a hydraulic lock as with oil is not a good idea; although I wouldn't have thought the starter would generate enough torque to actually bend a con rod!

[jean]

As pistons work in pairs you would have to ply at least 2 of them and up to now I have only seen this happen at rather high RPM.

Jean

[Rhodri]

I think the rope in the cylinder trick is to hold the valves shut in order to change valve springs without removing the head?

[Tom Fremont]

I think the rope in the cylinder trick is to hold the valves shut in order to change valve springs without removing the head?

 

This is my understanding, too, but when I did this I feared a knot forming inside upon removal and switched to using a rag instead. Done it thus twice so far to good effect.