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Door lock removal


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I’m now so good at this that I managed to get the second lock out in under 30 seconds (door card is off).

Rather than trying to compress both tangs and push the lock out, it’s far easier to slip a thin small screwdriver or pick under the collar of the tangs and unclip it from the main body of the lock.

The lock then pops out and you can re-fit the tang collar if you want, or one of the much stronger washer setups shown earlier.

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Not fitted them yet. Decided to totally wet sand and polish all of my paintwork. Bit of a marathon job, but as usual learning as I go and quite enjoying it.

It’s well over 20 yrs old so needs some tlc.

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14 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:

Yep - eBay for mine as well. Less than a tenner delivered, which is very good value.

When fitting those keeper plates be careful of the grub screws as theyre pretty soft metal Ive found.

Stuart.

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  • 2 weeks later...

One of the issues on my TR has been that none of the keys that came with it locked either door and the glovebox key didn't operate the boot lock.  This topic has been quite helpful as I decided that rather than replace the door locks with a new set (which would still leave me without a boot key etc) I'd have a go at modifying the existing locks to match the glovebox and ignition keys.

It wasn't that hard really and I now have two sets of two keys that operate all locks as they should.

The work was a bit fiddly and you have to be very careful not to lose the tiny springs, but with some repositioning of the tangs and careful filing (internally and externally) to adjust their height it was well worth the effort.  Some photo's of the process attached.

The chromate coated tool is perfect for easing the door card back in order to remove the handle retaining pins, and I use 1/8" brazing rod nicked all around with a triangular file at the correct length which I then break off when correctly positioned.  Sorry, no idea where I got the tool from.

Gavin

 

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I like the moss ones with the big nut. I make up a stainless washer for the inside and tighten the nut on that. On a painted door which I have done a few times masking tape is you friend and take your time in filing the hole to suit. I also fit a large stainless washer on the forward part of the handle to spread the load.

Regards Harry

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1 hour ago, KiwiTR6 said:

One of the issues on my TR has been that none of the keys that came with it locked either door and the glovebox key didn't operate the boot lock.  This topic has been quite helpful as I decided that rather than replace the door locks with a new set (which would still leave me without a boot key etc) I'd have a go at modifying the existing locks to match the glovebox and ignition keys.

It wasn't that hard really and I now have two sets of two keys that operate all locks as they should.

The work was a bit fiddly and you have to be very careful not to lose the tiny springs, but with some repositioning of the tangs and careful filing (internally and externally) to adjust their height it was well worth the effort.  Some photo's of the process attached.

The chromate coated tool is perfect for easing the door card back in order to remove the handle retaining pins, and I use 1/8" brazing rod nicked all around with a triangular file at the correct length which I then break off when correctly positioned.  Sorry, no idea where I got the tool from.

Gavin

 

17097127314982.jpg

17097127316923.jpg

17097127317464.jpg

17097127317925.jpg

17097127318766.jpg

Good work Kiwi - the trouble is getting the barrels apart. Not all locks can be stripped down, but when they can it’s a fun little project for those long winter evenings.

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23 hours ago, Steve 286 said:

In the past I have tried doing what you’ve just done then I tried random keys and managed to open one of my locks so just be careful

Steve, all pins are still in place, just modified to suit the keys I have.  Only a couple had a small amount removed from the top edge where they remained a fraction proud so they will still prevent rotation along with the other 4 pins.  I can't imagine that any random key would be able to unlock them unless the cut was identical to the key they were adjusted to suit. Anyway, a far better situation than not being able to lock them at all! 

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