Z320 Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 (edited) Hi, I think this could be worth an own thread? My TR4A came with a "cardboard" (?) gearbox tunnel, which I have never seen. Because the classic car dealer swapped it to a fibre glass tunnel to make the car ready to sell. With the gb out the first time I noticed its poor fitting and with the MX5 gearbox I had to cut it out. This gave the idea to make it new from DC04 "Tiefziehblech", something I never made, perhaps a good exercise with no need for a perfect result? My mate Dieter, a 100 points DIY man with a 100 points workshop borrowed me his strecher / shrinker. From cardboard I made negatives of the car floor, from this postives from laminated wood. I started with the right side flange, obvious more simple than the left one with its sharp S shape at the front end. Please be gentle and ignore the chaos on my workbench, I started euphoric. On the left side I learned: streching wide makes the flange slim, shrinking tight makes it "crumpled". Dieter gave me the advice to cut and weld the flange on the sharp S on the front end: too wide to strech and tight to shrink. Knowing his classc cars and projects I know: this man knows what he is talking about! A model made from cardboard helped me to easy find the shape for a sheet steel cover. Yesterday I fitted both sides in the car, drilled 8 of the 10 holes perfectly, therefore I had to modify the shape of the right side at the bend for gb bell The ear end is a bit longer than original to cover what I had to cot out for the MX5 gearbox. The quetion is which end to continue: at the rear will be more easy and has the benefit for me to lear, the front end is more difficult but without the rear end finished I have better access now.... Looking forward for your advice and questions. Ciao, Marco Edited November 26, 2023 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 (edited) DC04 "Tiefziehblech" = DC04 a deep-drawing steel of the DC grade family. Gosh, Marco, brave to choose steel, when I would choose aluminium to be easier, although I couldn't weld it. And a good looking start! Recently and for a similar reason - I fitted a Ford Type 9 gearbox to my TR-engined Vitesse - I had to extend the GRP cover. Below, extended with alloy panels, that were removed after being the mould for extra GRP, as in second pic. To make an entire gearbox in GRP, your old one could have been the mould after being extended in this way. But keep going, you're doing a grand job! John Edited November 26, 2023 by john.r.davies Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 (edited) Hi John, 'Rimmer' steel is/was used extensively in the auto industry. It is easy top bend/form/press and has a very good surface finish Roger Edited November 26, 2023 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 Thanks, Roger, but "Rimmer"??? Rimmer as in the Bros, of Lincoln? Rimmer as in Arnold Judas, of Red Dwarf? Or what? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 (edited) 6 hours ago, Z320 said: Hi, I think this could be worth an own thread? My TR4A came with a "cardboard" (?) gearbox tunnel, which I have never seen. Because the classic car dealer swapped it to a fibre glass tunnel to make the car ready to sell. With the gb out the first time I noticed its poor fitting and with the MX5 gearbox I had to cut it out. This gave the idea to make it new from DC04 "Tiefziehblech", something I never made, perhaps a good exercise with no need for a perfect result? My mate Dieter, a 100 points DIY man with a 100 points workshop borrowed me his strecher / shrinker. From cardboard I made negatives of the car floor, from this postives from laminated wood. I started with the right side flange, obvious more simple than the left one with its sharp S shape at the front end. Please be gentle and ignore the chaos on my workbench, I started euphoric. On the left side I learned: streching wide makes the flange slim, shrinking tight makes it "crumpled". Dieter gave me the advice to cut and weld the flange on the sharp S on the front end: too wide to strech and tight to shrink. Knowing his classc cars and projects I know: this man knows what he is talking about! A model made from cardboard helped me to easy find the shape for a sheet steel cover. Yesterday I fitted both sides in the car, drilled 8 of the 10 holes perfectly, therefore I had to modify the shape of the right side at the bend for gb bell The ear end is a bit longer than original to cover what I had to cot out for the MX5 gearbox. The quetion is which end to continue: at the rear will be more easy and has the benefit for me to lear, the front end is more difficult but without the rear end finished I have better access now.... Looking forward for your advice and questions. Ciao, Marco Skin pegs are your friend. I grew up with Avdel screw type but the spring type by Cleco are superb for holding bits of metal in a way you finally want to see them assembled. Easier than a blob or tack welds nut and bolt/self tapping screw. Simply drill a hole through both bits and clamp it all together before you commit to permanent welding or brazing or riveting https://aircraftengineersstore.com/product-category/clamps/ Edited November 26, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 I hoped the moment will come I understand Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 4 minutes ago, john.r.davies said: Thanks, Roger, but "Rimmer"??? Rimmer as in the Bros, of Lincoln? Rimmer as in Arnold Judas, of Red Dwarf? Or what? John If the subject is deep drawing sheet steel for pressing body panels, I knew it as CR1 steel. Anything less would split or tear when pressed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 Hi John sorry brain racing away and not explaining. There is a grade of steel used in the automobile industry that works exceptionally well. Press/bend/stamp/form and with a very good surface. It is calling Rimming steel *as in Rhyming) or Rimmed steel. Very handy in the workshop for hand forming. I don't know its technical name/number. So Rimmers and Rimmer are not what I was talking about. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 DC04 is sheet steel for car body work with high quality for cold froming. I don‘t use aluminum because I can’t weld it and because I want to get some experience with steel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 (edited) Thanks again, Roger! "Rhyming" steel? Ie formable without heat? Every day a schoolday! John Edited November 26, 2023 by john.r.davies Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 40 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Skin pegs are your friend. I grew up with Avdel screw type but the spring type by Cleco are superb for holding bits of metal in a way you finally want to see them assembled. Easier than a blob or tack welds nut and bolt/self tapping screw. Simply drill a hole through both bits and clamp it all together before you commit to permanent welding or brazing or riveting https://aircraftengineersstore.com/product-category/clamps/ Thanks, I have seen them before and remember now. I‘m 50/50 for „safe the money“ / „idiot, grab them!“ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Z320 said: Thanks, I have seen them before and remember now. I‘m 50/50 for „safe the money“ / „idiot, grab them!“ My brother bought a set of Cleco spring type to aid in his TR2 rebuild and says he would not be without them now. I had screw tightened type from my apprentice days for aircraft skin work and used them on the TR when I did some bodywork repairs. A while back I sent a couple of small (3/32”. =2.3mm) to a man repairing wiper motors to retain the brass self parking piece in the lid while he was re riveting it in place after cleaning and plating. Edited November 26, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 There are two types of the Avdel skin pin. The all metal as mentioned by Pete above and the ,more fancy round barrel type that has a colour coded plastic foot These ones do not like being welded. https://www.lasaero.com/products/article/X01A0QWGL I prefer the all metal to the Cleco style. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 Wiper motor use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 one of each - very posh Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 Apologies to you Marco. We have drifted your thread. I will delete my additions if you feel they detract from the essence of the DIY tunnel thread. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Apologies to you Marco. We have drifted your thread. I will delete my additions if you feel they detract from the essence of the DIY tunnel thread. No problem! This is a chat forum! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 Sunday, first Christmas market today, so only a little practice: how does it work to roll a 3 mm wire in? not so bad, a bead roller would be nice.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 26, 2023 Report Share Posted November 26, 2023 (edited) Flange the edge first with rollers, then fold round the wire with a hammer, would be my approach. Edited November 26, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted November 27, 2023 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2023 Only pliers (Knipex, what else) and hammer works too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted November 27, 2023 Report Share Posted November 27, 2023 On 11/26/2023 at 11:36 AM, Z320 said: Hi, I think this could be worth an own thread? My TR4A came with a "cardboard" (?) gearbox tunnel, which I have never seen. Because the classic car dealer swapped it to a fibre glass tunnel to make the car ready to sell. With the gb out the first time I noticed its poor fitting and with the MX5 gearbox I had to cut it out. This gave the idea to make it new from DC04 "Tiefziehblech", something I never made, perhaps a good exercise with no need for a perfect result? My mate Dieter, a 100 points DIY man with a 100 points workshop borrowed me his stretcher / shrinker. From cardboard I made negatives of the car floor, from this postives from laminated wood. I started with the right side flange, obvious more simple than the left one with its sharp S shape at the front end. Please be gentle and ignore the chaos on my workbench, I started euphoric. On the left side I learned: streching wide makes the flange slim, shrinking tight makes it "crumpled". Dieter gave me the advice to cut and weld the flange on the sharp S on the front end: too wide to strech and tight to shrink. Knowing his classc cars and projects I know: this man knows what he is talking about! A model made from cardboard helped me to easy find the shape for a sheet steel cover. Yesterday I fitted both sides in the car, drilled 8 of the 10 holes perfectly, therefore I had to modify the shape of the right side at the bend for gb bell The ear end is a bit longer than original to cover what I had to cot out for the MX5 gearbox. The question is which end to continue: at the rear will be more easy and has the benefit for me to lear, the front end is more difficult but without the rear end finished I have better access now.... Looking forward for your advice and questions. Ciao, Marco Nice work Marco, as always. That stretcher / shrinker looks to be a very useful tool. It's a shame we are not neighbours Regarding which end next.. Reaching under the dashboard is awkward enough at the best of times, and handling steel panels in the gap can lead to damage underside of the dashboard - so I'd recommend working on the most difficult forward end first. Remember to allow access to starter motor bolts. All the best. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 27, 2023 Report Share Posted November 27, 2023 1 hour ago, Bfg said: Nice work Marco, as always. That stretcher / shrinker looks to be a very useful tool. It's a shame we are not neighbours Regarding which end next.. Reaching under the dashboard is awkward enough at the best of times, and handling steel panels in the gap can lead to damage underside of the dashboard - so I'd recommend working on the most difficult forward end first. Remember to allow access to starter motor bolts. All the best. Pete Plus oil filler too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 3, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2023 (edited) Hi, working on this in the car is very much a pain, special for me, because I hurt my ribs very easy - what indeed happend agian. So I decided to connect my both models left and right in tghe car and make a wooden model to work mainly on a table. I think this is a good idea - for me, apart from I need more time. With already snow and salt on the streets (Dezember 03rd) this is no problem. Ciao, Marco Edited December 3, 2023 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2023 (edited) Hi, only slowly progess, making the wooden model and first panel need endless time. First fit today with the H-console on my model and in the car was OK. The shape is correct. Ciao. Marco Edited December 9, 2023 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted December 10, 2023 Report Share Posted December 10, 2023 Marco, You asked above about how to "wire the edge" of a flat panel, to enclose a wire for stiffness and to protect the fingers. See: http://wiki.dtonline.org/index.php/Wired_Edge Looks like you allowed a little too much for the wire. As said on that page it's 2.5 x the wire diameter. Good luck! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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