New starter motor

[Michel Higuet]

A new high-torque starter motor always seemed like an unattainable luxury to me, but still I will raping my savings pig once again. 2-3 times in a row the Bendix did not engage the flywheel crown. This never happens in the past but there was the problem of the loose starter motor and the famous rubbing noise. Disassembly and nothing visible, no broken teeth can't even find the one that was broken 25 years ago and that I had rebuilt with arc welding and a small grinding wheel it is true that I was poor at that time (in fact still I am :-)).
I think that by polishing the small blurs on the Bendix pinion would solve the problem but that beast had its life and deserves a good retirement, room for the young as they say.

 

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Is the bendix shaft bent?   Would not be the first one.

[Lo100469]

Michel,

I have a refurbished old style starter you can have if you want.  My mechanic was not sure there was no short in it so I had a high torque mounted but it is supposed to be like new.... at least bendix, shaft, bushing are all new

Laurent

[Michel Higuet]

13 hours ago, Lo100469 said:

Michel,

I have a refurbished old style starter you can have if you want.  My mechanic was not sure there was no short in it so I had a high torque mounted but it is supposed to be like new.... at least bendix, shaft, bushing are all new

Laurent

Thank you Laurent for your generosity but I will buy a high torque this morning. Mine is working too and for the pleasure will refurbished before laying it on the self. It will rest in peace. After 47 years of working non stop no need to rape the pig.   

[Michel Higuet]

I bought the starter put it in the "right" position but secured the lower bold first, error! my wife spend 10 minutes to put the nylstop bolt on the shaft...

How to secure it?

Out of question to invert the position of the starter. My religion forbid it.

Replace the nylstop with a normal one, but a nylstop is better...

Make a hole in the gearbox tunnel, ok but you make a hole...

Arc sold a diy lever on a multi-notch socket, on a old one yes but if you read Snap-on or Bonney on your socket? 

Order a wrench set ratchet | flexible heads and that's what I did.

I knew the price of the starter was 302€ He told me I have one and cost you 245€ ???? Yes the guy speaks always VAT not included... I must have ask him your baker and butcher too?

He told me that there are customer who ask 2 invoices, one with a small amount for the spouse... :-)

 

[Colin Symonds]

Have you got a crows foot spanner that would fit? You can always make one by cutting and welding and old spanner.

[Michel Higuet]

18 hours ago, Colin Symonds said:

Have you got a crows foot spanner that would fit? You can always make one by cutting and welding and old spanner.

I have a lot of tools but no crow foot spanner and in this case a multi-notch one would be better.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Am I missing something here?    I thought the trick with cardboard gearbox tunnel cars was to simply cut a hole in the thing with a sharp knife to gain access to the upper nut of the starter then re secure the hole with a bit of tin and gaffer tape.   I agree the use of a ring spanner type crows foot eases that operation if you are doing it all from the engine bay but is still a bit fiddly.   If you cut a hole in the gearbox tunnel you may well need someone to guide the regular  socket onto the nut to enable it to be tightened using ratchet and extension bar.    I probably would have use a plain nut and shake proof washer rather than the nylon locking type.   They increase the chance of the bolt in the starter turning before the whole thing is tight.   On sidescreen cars the gearbox tunnel is steel and not so easy to cut an access hole in.

 

3/8” sq drive ring type crows foot with extension and short knuckle bar.   As used on TR2/3 cars to fit the starter without removing the tunnel.

Edited October 27, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Michel Higuet]

1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Am I missing something here?    I thought the trick with cardboard gearbox tunnel cars was to simply cut a hole in the thing with a sharp knife to gain access to the upper nut of the starter then re secure the hole with a bit of tin and gaffer tape.   I agree the use of a ring spanner type crows foot eases that operation if you are doing it all from the engine bay but is still a bit fiddly.   If you cut a hole in the gearbox tunnel you may well need someone to guide the regular  socket onto the nut to enable it to be tightened using ratchet and extension bar.    I probably would have use a plain nut and shake proof washer rather than the nylon locking type.   They increase the chance of the bolt in the starter turning before the whole thing is tight.   On sidescreen cars the gearbox tunnel is steel and not so easy to cut an access hole in.

 

3/8” sq drive ring type crows foot with extension and short knuckle bar.   As used on TR2/3 cars to fit the starter without removing the tunnel.

I don't have this type of wrench type crow foot otherwise... The tunnel is made of thick plastic but I preferred to wait for the tools who come tomorrow. Today I solved the problem of the butterfly valve.

I have order a Ratschenringmaulschlüsselsatz...  :-)

 

[Z320]

6 minutes ago, Michel Higuet said:

I have order a Ratschenringmaulschlüsselsatz...  :-)

 

Sorry, I have several of them

and in most cases they need too much space to use.

Nearly never in use on any of my vehicles 

[james christie]

On 10/26/2023 at 5:04 PM, Michel Higuet said:

I bought the starter put it in the "right" position but secured the lower bold first, error! my wife spend 10 minutes to put the nylstop bolt on the shaft...

How to secure it?

Out of question to invert the position of the starter

Undo the adaptor plate on the starter motor and turn it through 180° . Life will be a lot easier - and the starter motor stays in the same position!

james

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

3 hours ago, Z320 said:

Sorry, I have several of them

and in most cases they need too much space to use.

Nearly never in use on any of my vehicles 

Beat me to it.   You need more than enough room around those spanners to use them

[Michel Higuet]

14 hours ago, james christie said:

Undo the adaptor plate on the starter motor and turn it through 180° . Life will be a lot easier - and the starter motor stays in the same position!

james

Yes that's was the best idea, still starter motor on the same position... 

[Michel Higuet]

16 hours ago, Z320 said:

Sorry, I have several of them

and in most cases they need too much space to use.

Nearly never in use on any of my vehicles 

Yes 99% I use flat wrench with a ring on one side or socket but this case is special ( and lot of people include me didn't though of simply  invert the plate Hahahaha ).

[Michel Higuet]

Ok the bolt is 9/16" and if I fiddle maybe an half hour I will "maybe" succeed putting this new wrench on the bolt, at 90° the head can't pass trough, so must be engage à 45° then with second tool trying to pivot the head at 90 and engage it...

Tomorrow I turn the adapter plate trough 180°... :-)

[Michel Higuet]

Ok installed! I turned the front plate through 180°, I don't forged to put the bolt at the same time, on the top bolt ( no more nylstop ) and finally secure the nut below ( of course the exhaust pipes needed to be removed otherwise it would be too easy... :-)

[monty]

Not sure what he used but my local garage had to tighten my loose high-torque the other week. Did not turn the front plate but said he had the tools to do it & indeed he did, phoning me in quick order after I had left the car with him! I guess experience is the key as I could not see how it could easily be done without garage facilities of ramp etc.