Wsl Posted August 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2023 Hi Z320. Yes this tool worked very well but aluminium die had to thinned to about 16mm, it was to thick to fit between the bottom of liner and the crank , not much room there. Yes I think OEM liner maker’s were Mahle in Germany, as you say out of business now I am following Mick’s every steps. John Roberts . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wsl Posted September 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2023 Hi Micky Well, some job that was? It did take ages to grind 10 thou off each liner, was using 180 grit, and finishing with 320. Crank journals were whistle clean, had no sludge or **** coming out of the engine. It was a bit of a bugger to start, but I think after this type of work they always are. I will retorque after 200 miles. Thanks for all you help and guidance. kind regards John IMG_1164.HEIC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted September 12, 2023 Report Share Posted September 12, 2023 Glad you succeeded John, relentless gets there in the end. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 6, 2023 Report Share Posted December 6, 2023 (edited) Continuing the thread title We have an engine delivered for investigation as the sump is filling with water. Today's task was investigate where the leak was from Had to double check the cam timing before stripping to ensure it went back as it came out Thankfully the gears were scribed and dot punched and that tallied with the crank protractor check. Following photos of what was obvious. The leaking rusty water droplets are quite clear at the joint between the liner and the block above the crank. The Figure of 8 was corroded away completely. Next step is to get the liner seats recut, block top faced and the liners machined to height. sump full of emulsified slime the visible rusty water droplets slime! Double crescent rather than figure of 8 Rust and crud build up on base of no4 liner after 25 years no4 liner seat with visible corrosion Edited December 6, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted December 6, 2023 Report Share Posted December 6, 2023 WOW Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted December 6, 2023 Report Share Posted December 6, 2023 Wrong antifreeze? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 7, 2023 Report Share Posted December 7, 2023 Was run with blue antifreeze but not changed every two years. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted December 7, 2023 Report Share Posted December 7, 2023 Mine corroded like that in short order after I inadvertently used the wrong antifreeze. Big lesson learned. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted December 7, 2023 Report Share Posted December 7, 2023 26 minutes ago, Drewmotty said: Mine corroded like that in short order after I inadvertently used the wrong antifreeze. Big lesson learned. I had the same problem after my engine rebuild. In less than 100 miles the STEEL Fo8 rings looked the same. I'd used "OAT" antifreeze (Not sure of the full name.) I could see the antifreeze dripping out from the edges of the liner like Peter's pictures show. To make matters worse, the antifreeze seemed to mix with the oil and turned it into a jelly like mixture. Cleaned everything up, fitted COPPER Fo8s and all seems good now after another 3000 miles. I did not re-machine anything as only the rings were corroded, not the actual block or liners. I think... (I should have listened to Mick Motorsport) that I did not take enough care with the liner heights in the first place. I also think that the copper rings are a bit thicker, so it made up for my lack of care. Charlie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbysr Posted December 30, 2023 Report Share Posted December 30, 2023 On 8/13/2023 at 9:39 AM, RogerH said: How do they get the top of the liner to sit apprx 0.004" high.? Do it properly and fit the Fo8's Roger Good advice Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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