MilesA Posted July 30, 2023 Report Share Posted July 30, 2023 Noticed when parking the car in the lock up this morning that I seem to have lost headlamps (main and low beam) and gauge lamps at the same time. Moving the light stalk down to the first position I get side lights and gauge lights. Moving the stalk further down to the bottom position side lights go off, no headlamps (main or low beam) and the gauge lights extinguish. I think I have a ‘flasher’ stalk but that does nothing when pulling it towards me So thinking no supply getting to dip switch / light stalk Initially Thought it might be the stalk so cowls off and that has had a squirt of contact cleaner. No change. Removed the foot dip switch after pressing multiple times. blue/white cable(s) attached but have removed cleaned and reconnected. Same with blue cable although connector looks pretty ropey. Might cut off and put on new connector. Am at a new lock up and all the diagrams / kit are at home! Any thoughts chaps before I trudge back? Car is ‘69 PI. Many thanks as ever. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 30, 2023 Report Share Posted July 30, 2023 Look up under the dash at the connectors where the switch meets the loom. Wiring diagrams attached though for US models. near enough for what you want Stuart. TR6 wiring Diagrams.pdf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaelfinnis Posted July 30, 2023 Report Share Posted July 30, 2023 A problem with the dip switch might fail the headlights, but shouldn't interfere with the side/gauge lights. There must be a supply to the light stalk to get the side/gauge lights on. Most likely a fault within the light stalk? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted July 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2023 Thanks both. Have saved those diagrams to my phone Stuart! Checked all the connections under the dash where they meet the loom. No lose connections - all look good and solid. Think I need to remove the stalk switch from the steering tube to see if there is something unconnected there. Noticed that when sidelights are engaged there is a slight movement of the ammeter needle to “-“. Drops back as soon as I switch to headlamps. Consistent with no current being switched on I suppose. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted July 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2023 It’s the switch. Removed the 2 securing screws and moved the switch as far as I could and can just see that the blue / white cable connection has come adrift from the unit (also the cable covering has worn through and a little of the cable is exposed). So just need to work out how to get that metal cable shroud off the underside of the steering column tube so that I can disconnect / replace the stalk switch ASAP. Seems to be a single clip with both sides held together by a screw. Thanks again for the prompt responses. A great help. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve-B Posted July 30, 2023 Report Share Posted July 30, 2023 5 hours ago, stuart said: Look up under the dash at the connectors where the switch meets the loom. Wiring diagrams attached though for US models. near enough for what you want Stuart. TR6 wiring Diagrams.pdf 314.64 kB · 4 downloads Nice one Stuart, have saved a copy of the page for 1973 TR 6...in my Dropbox Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 30, 2023 Report Share Posted July 30, 2023 4 hours ago, MilesA said: It’s the switch. Removed the 2 securing screws and moved the switch as far as I could and can just see that the blue / white cable connection has come adrift from the unit (also the cable covering has worn through and a little of the cable is exposed). So just need to work out how to get that metal cable shroud off the underside of the steering column tube so that I can disconnect / replace the stalk switch ASAP. Seems to be a single clip with both sides held together by a screw. Thanks again for the prompt responses. A great help. Miles You will need to remove the screw that goes through the clamp and you may need to slacken the column clamp behind the dash then slide the cable cover back from its engagement in the column bell and open the clamp section enough to draw it back and down wards. Disengage the bullet connectors and draw the switch out. it can be fun trying to get the new switch cables back in though. Then as they say in all the Haynes manuals "Assembly is the reverse of dismantling" Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted July 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2023 Ha, ha! Been there before. Thanks as ever for the tips though. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted July 31, 2023 Report Share Posted July 31, 2023 On 7/30/2023 at 5:53 PM, stuart said: “…..it can be fun trying to get the new switch cables back in though. Then as they say in all the Haynes manuals "Assembly is the reverse of dismantling" Stuart. That’s an understatement. I found it difficult to thread cables for light switch, indicator switch and overdrive switch down the column for my TR5 restoration with the column on the bench. Goodness knows what it’s like doing it in situ. Good luck! Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted August 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2023 So an update in case others attempt this and a further problem I have encountered. I followed Stuart's advice: - removed the screw that goes through the clamp on the cable cover - slackened the bolts between the rearward upper and lower column clamps - pulled the rear clamp of the cable cover off the steering column - I had to remove the lower column clamp (it is also attached to the rear of the metal dash) because the lip on the front of the cable clamp prevented it being pulled down and so out from under the dash - pulled the cable cover downwards and backwards to remove it - cut off the bullet connectors from the old switch cables and pulled the cables out of the steering column metal cowl. - I taped up the ends of the cables of the new switch and by holding the overdrive and indicator cables to one side was able to thread the new cables through the opening in the metal cowl relatively easily - by feel, laid the cables as flat as possible on the inside of the cable cover - bracing my legs under the steering wheel I raised it as far as I could and by feel threaded the cable cover back through the dash - checked that all cables were inside the cover and not pinched between it and the dash - clicked the clamp on the other end of the cover bar onto the steering column - I then wiggled the lower clamp back onto the threads protruding from the dash and tightened it flat against the dash with the two nuts PROBLEM! - the lower and upper clamps no longer align - the upper clamp, which is braced against the dash, now sits about 1/8" closer to the dash and the bolt holes for joining the clamps no longer align - tried force and levers of various kind but cannot prise the upper clamp forward. Equally, having slackened off the two nuts holding the lower clamp to the dash could not tilt it back at all. Given the bolts and nuts securing the upper and lower clamps look new and that there is an indent on the lower lip of the rear of the metal dash, I think someone else has experienced this problem - looking at diagrams, I think I need to slacken off the bottom of the brace where it attaches to the upper clamp. Pretty sure I can not do that just fiddling under the dash. - Looks like I need to remove the revcounter and possibly the speedo from the dash. Those knurled nuts look pretty inaccessible though. So....any thoughts on the way forward chaps? Looks like my long weekend in the TR may be scuppered but I do want to get it ready for the IWE if only so that I can collect a missing spring clamp that goes under the upper clamp (and go through this whole palaver again)! PS I do have functioning lights now. There is a bit of a tale about the new switch I purchased yesterday morning from M**S but I will save that until I get the steering secured! As ever, many thanks for your thoughts Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted August 1, 2023 Report Share Posted August 1, 2023 Hi Miles Just recently had to do this job a few times for various reasons and had the same issue with the cable cover it’s not big enough especially if add a logic box set up. I was contemplating making a slightly deeper one as it’s only thin sheet metal but I squeezed the extra wires in just! You can get to the speedo knurled nuts reasonably well and pull the four bulb holders out easily enough from underneath. More so if you take the steering wheel off. You can then pull the speedo forward and disconnect the cable the trip just pulls out. Once out you then have better and easier access to remove the tachometer and then get to the clamp. Just book to see the chiropractor afterwards! Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 1, 2023 Report Share Posted August 1, 2023 Undo the lower clamp slightly off the dash and depending on what type of column brace you have fitted you may need to slacken the nuts on the clamp at the firewall so you have some wriggle room then to get the upper clamp aligned with the lower and refit the bolts. As stated this whole procedure is a lot easier if you take the large clocks out but usually you can do it without though if you have the lower eyeball air vents fitted then remove them as theyre definitely not helping. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted August 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2023 Thanks Andy and Stuart for confirming the way forward. It’s all very tight and not just under the dash; the garage is only 8’ wide! I’ll try without removing the clocks but suspect they’re coming out (but not until next week now); a new skill. Every day is a school day with these cars! Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kenrow Posted August 8, 2023 Report Share Posted August 8, 2023 (edited) On 7/30/2023 at 4:28 AM, stuart said: Look up under the dash at the connectors where the switch meets the loom. Wiring diagrams attached though for US models. near enough for what you want Stuart. TR6 wiring Diagrams.pdf 314.64 kB · 13 downloads Here is the link to Dan Maters complete "TRIUMPH TR250 - TR6 ELECTRICAL MAINTENANCE HANDBOOK". Dan use to sell this handbook through the typical TR parts distributors but has made the info available to all TR enthusiasts. Thanks Dan! http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506/ Edited August 8, 2023 by Kenrow updated link Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted August 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2023 Just to complete this thread for the benefit of others who may need to do this. As predicted, I had to remove the Speedo. Removing the lower air vent was also necessary to create space. In fact, pulling the speedo out of the dash and moving it to one side was enough to get my hand and a small spanner behind the dash to undo/remove the bolt securing the upper clamp to the brace to the top of the dash. Once the top clamp was disconnected from the brace everything was easy. I easily fitted all the cables in the metal ‘gutter’ and repositioned it under/on the column. This included the additional cable from a column mounted dip switch I want which again was much more easy to locate in the gutter. I fitted the missing clip under the upper clamp and was easily able to align the upper and lower clamps. The bottom of the brace has an extended hole for the securing bolt with the upper clamp which allows it to align with the upper clamp as it is secured to the lower. So I put the bolt through the brace and upper clamp but did not tighten it as I tightened the two clamps together. Then I tightened the brace bolt. Then reinstalled the Speedo and the air vent. Job done. Very satisfying and all switches work. Thanks all Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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