Malbaby Posted May 24, 2023 Report Share Posted May 24, 2023 As you can see there is quite a gap between the door glass and the backlight frame of my repro top. Has anyone with one of these tops experienced similar....[doors are positioned correctly with ok gaps to the fenders, and the front windscreen to door glass gap is currently ok] Seems to be two possible solutions...move the frame forward in which case it will not line up nicely with the B pillar, or have some new glass made that is slightly wider, but will still move ok in the channels. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted May 24, 2023 Report Share Posted May 24, 2023 Looks like the glass overlaps the rubbers so should be weather proof .... and as such I would be happy. I don't see moving frame as an option - as you say it would not line up and I would rather live with a gap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 24, 2023 Report Share Posted May 24, 2023 (edited) I use the channel and rubber that would be normally fitted to an original Surrey rear frame to provide a good weather proof seal on my Honeybourne Surrey. Items 2 & 4 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/weather-equipment/hard-tops/surrey-top-fittings-tr4-4a-1961-67.html Looks like this. Stuart. Edited May 24, 2023 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted May 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2023 (edited) Thanks very much Stuart. That seems to be the ideal solution. Pity that Honeybourne did not supply the additional channels. I assume that the seal and the seal retainer channel is different to Remington TR...part number 802060....your sample pic looks to be a different profile. Edited May 25, 2023 by Malbaby Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 25, 2023 Report Share Posted May 25, 2023 10 hours ago, Malbaby said: Thanks very much Stuart. That seems to be the ideal solution. Pity that Honeybourne did not supply the additional channels. I assume that the seal and the seal retainer channel is different to Remington TR...part number 802060....your sample pic looks to be a different profile. The channel and the rubber are as per original and supplied by Moss. FWIW the channel is the same as used on Jaguar series 1 XJ6 though the rubber on those cars is a different profile. Honeybourne only use a cheap seal up the sides and under the frame to deck as well. I always replace them with ones I know 1. Look better and 2. Work properly. I use this seal from Woolies to go all the way round from header rail round the doors over the surrey and round to the header rail as it makes the doors shut better and as you see from my pictures combines well with the side seals. https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1285-door-seal The seal for the sides of the frame that Revingtons show is incorrect and due to the "Shore" of the foot is nigh on impossible to fit in the channel and also has a habit of shearing at the join to the sponge section. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted May 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2023 (edited) Thanks again Stuart...Seems that I should also replace my current door seals with the ones that you use. My current seals are the pinchweld with bulb type, and I have always had some difficulty in achieving nice door closure. Is the additional side seal only available from Moss?....I have not been able to find any here. Edited May 26, 2023 by Malbaby Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 26, 2023 Report Share Posted May 26, 2023 13 hours ago, Malbaby said: Thanks again Stuart...Seems that I should also replace my current door seals with the ones that you use. My current seals are the pinchweld with bulb type, and I have always had some difficulty in achieving nice door closure. Is the additional side seal only available from Moss?....I have not been able to find any here. The correct shape side seals (Its also the same one either side of the glass under the hard roof too) is as far as I know only available from Moss, others purport to supply the correct one but thats not the case. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted May 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2023 (edited) Thanks Stuart.... Please advise on your method of attaching the retainer strips to the F/G....screw and glue, rivet and glue, other? And can Moss supply long length of the dedicated rubber seal? As a matter of interest, what did you use for the finishing strip on the rear of the hard top lid? Edited May 27, 2023 by Malbaby Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 27, 2023 Report Share Posted May 27, 2023 12 hours ago, Malbaby said: Thanks Stuart.... Please advise on your method of attaching the retainer strips to the F/G....screw and glue, rivet and glue, other? And can Moss supply long length of the dedicated rubber seal? As a matter of interest, what did you use for the finishing strip on the rear of the hard top lid? Theyre attached with 1/8" aluminium rivets with a thin smear of non setting sealer behind. You would have to talk to Moss direct about buying the seal in one length, they should be able to do that. My roof finisher is an original as its a standard steel roof not a repro. You could use this as a finisher although its 11mm deep as opposed to the original 13mm it would look fine. https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1578-chrome-edge Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 27, 2023 Report Share Posted May 27, 2023 Isn't TR4Tony VC making them or considering it. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 27, 2023 Report Share Posted May 27, 2023 (edited) 26 minutes ago, RogerH said: Isn't TR4Tony VC making them or considering it. Roger He is having them made, Theyre about £200+ I think. Stuart. Edited May 27, 2023 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted May 27, 2023 Report Share Posted May 27, 2023 3 hours ago, stuart said: Theyre attached with 1/8" aluminium rivets with a thin smear of non setting sealer behind. You would have to talk to Moss direct about buying the seal in one length, they should be able to do that. My roof finisher is an original as its a standard steel roof not a repro. You could use this as a finisher although its 11mm deep as opposed to the original 13mm it would look fine. https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1578-chrome-edge Stuart. I just bought the correct lengths of channel for the hard top side seals from Moss, also the seals are called Cantrail seals and are the correct length, I'm riveting and sealing the metal channels as described by Stuart, I'm also reducing the width of the Honeybourne rain gutter to more closely match an original. As luck would have it there was an original hard top in the Register tent at Doune, so I was able to check measurements and photograph the details, very handy! Rgds David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted May 27, 2023 Report Share Posted May 27, 2023 If talking of the trim at the rear of the lid, Tony has had a batch made - he had them displayed and for sale at the Spares Show on 12th February. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted May 28, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2023 Thank you all Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted June 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 Stuart...did you also fit the additional seal to the "A" post? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 1, 2023 Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 9 hours ago, Malbaby said: Stuart...did you also fit the additional seal to the "A" post? Originally 4/4a would have that seal fitted in the same channel all the way from header rail right round the door aperture and then a furflex trim on the lip of the aperture. Most cars have lost the channel and theyre really difficult to retro fit and get it in the right place so the doors shut well. I have the channel fitted all the way round the door aperture on mine but when I restored it nearly 30 yrs ago there was zero availability of either seal or finisher hence why I use the flap seal all the way round the doors. The one in the channel up the side of the Surrey is a later addition as the Surrey has only been fitted in the last few years. I dont have a piece up the screen edge currently but I may trial one sometime, my glass is a good fit to the flap seal so I dont really feel the need at the moment. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted June 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2023 10 hours ago, stuart said: Originally 4/4a would have that seal fitted in the same channel all the way from header rail right round the door aperture and then a furflex trim on the lip of the aperture. Most cars have lost the channel and theyre really difficult to retro fit and get it in the right place so the doors shut well. I have the channel fitted all the way round the door aperture on mine but when I restored it nearly 30 yrs ago there was zero availability of either seal or finisher hence why I use the flap seal all the way round the doors. The one in the channel up the side of the Surrey is a later addition as the Surrey has only been fitted in the last few years. I dont have a piece up the screen edge currently but I may trial one sometime, my glass is a good fit to the flap seal so I dont really feel the need at the moment. Stuart. Thanks again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiizac Posted July 11, 2023 Report Share Posted July 11, 2023 Hello, I am working on restoring a tr4 Surry top. Does anyone have a picture of the inside rear pillar trims on the inside of the backlight? We were going to make them, unless someone has a lead on a source? Thanks so much for your help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 12, 2023 Report Share Posted July 12, 2023 13 hours ago, hawaiizac said: Hello, I am working on restoring a tr4 Surry top. Does anyone have a picture of the inside rear pillar trims on the inside of the backlight? We were going to make them, unless someone has a lead on a source? Thanks so much for your help. They’re easy enough to make, I used 18swg ally, the window side is shaped to sit in behind the rubber as far as possible. The covering needs to have a couple of inches of waste edge to be glued round the edge at the front of the frame before fitting the door rubber. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiizac Posted July 13, 2023 Report Share Posted July 13, 2023 Thank you very much. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Revival Motorsport Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 On 7/11/2023 at 10:17 PM, hawaiizac said: Hello, I am working on restoring a tr4 Surry top. Does anyone have a picture of the inside rear pillar trims on the inside of the backlight? We were going to make them, unless someone has a lead on a source? Thanks so much for your help. We've got plenty of these in stock if you get stuck :-) Can also supply a pattern to cut the fabric to as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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