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Runs rough when hot then won’t start


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Hi I am a TR register member I have a 1974 Tr6 starts fine from cold,when it starts getting up to temperature it starts missing when at temperature it won’t start until cooled down.I have bless injectors,I have 110psi at the metering unit and running on electric ignition.has anyone had a simpler problem.Read on internet that the starter and cables get hot and cause this problem.

Thanks Dave

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Hi Dave

Welcome to the forum,  could you add a location to your profile please, it gives us a better chance to advise where to go for info.

I think it could be a coil problem or the rotor arm, have a look at the rotor arm is a black one with a rivet, if so it needs to be changed for a Distributor Doctor red one, could you add which electronic ignition you have,

John

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As John says possibly the coil, but electronic ignition systems can pack up when hot too. It's not unknown. 

I can't see any connection to the starter, unless the engine won't crank over ?

 

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Fouled plus? I have a Silver Shadow that behaves similar with too cool plug fitted... starts & runs fine, but once hot it starts to miss & stall. Switching to a hotter plug completely eliminated the problem. 

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10 hours ago, John L said:

Hi Dave

Welcome to the forum,  could you add a location to your profile please, it gives us a better chance to advise where to go for info.

I think it could be a coil problem or the rotor arm, have a look at the rotor arm is a black one with a rivet, if so it needs to be changed for a Distributor Doctor red one, could you add which electronic ignition you have,

John

Hi john

swap the coil already for a second hand one I have,when it started this I took the old electric ignition off and swapped it for a new accuspark unit.the rotor arm is a black one looks ok but I will have a look.

Thanks Dave

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Hi Dave , i had a similar problem last year.

Turned out to be the Accuspark rotor arm , only 1 1/2 years old and 1500 miles.

AA patrol guy took the coil lead out of the dizzy cap and held it just above the center of the rotor arm.,

i cranked the engine and low and behold a nice big spark jumped the gap meaning the rotor arm was going to earth.

Never seen that test done before and i have been in the motor-trade 50 years :D

Every days a school day.

Hope you find the problem and let us know

Regards

Mick

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19 hours ago, Michael Mckiernan said:

Hi Dave , i had a similar problem last year.

Turned out to be the Accuspark rotor arm , only 1 1/2 years old and 1500 miles.

AA patrol guy took the coil lead out of the dizzy cap and held it just above the center of the rotor arm.,

i cranked the engine and low and behold a nice big spark jumped the gap meaning the rotor arm was going to earth.

Never seen that test done before and i have been in the motor-trade 50 years :D

Every days a school day.

Hope you find the problem and let us know

Regards

Mick

Hi Michael thanks for reply.

regards Dave

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19 hours ago, Michael Mckiernan said:

Hi Dave , i had a similar problem last year.

Turned out to be the Accuspark rotor arm , only 1 1/2 years old and 1500 miles.

AA patrol guy took the coil lead out of the dizzy cap and held it just above the center of the rotor arm.,

i cranked the engine and low and behold a nice big spark jumped the gap meaning the rotor arm was going to earth.

Never seen that test done before and i have been in the motor-trade 50 years :D

Every days a school day.

Hope you find the problem and let us know

Regards

Mick

Hi Mick thanks for reply.

regards Dave

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Hi Dave

Do you still have 110psi when it starts missing/stops or while attempting to start her again once hot?

If not it might suggest the fuel pump or it 12v supply is failing as it heats up. Have a look at the wiring and consider running a 12v feed and earth direct from the battery. Either way it would serve to rule out the pump/wiring.

Andy

 

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