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I tried to fit my hardtop this afternoon, ready for the week end SDG Autumn Leaves Run. I have fitted the hardtop many times over the years and it is always difficult. Today it took over three hours. The central fixing screw front and back was OK. But it was very difficult to fit the other screws. In the end I had all the screws just located in place and about 3 turns, so very loose. I managed the rear side screws by applying some pressure from outside to get the holes to line up.. This is difficult on your own. The two side screws at the front were very hard to start. I used a small g clamp to pull the hardtop down to the chrome windscreen surround until I could fit the screw and a manage a few turns. Once every screw was fitting I started to tighten them down very slowly and occasionally tightening the clamps.

After a long afternoon it is in place but I am worried.

  1. How does the hardtop change shape when it is stored in the garage ?
  2. Is the extra pressure likely to damage the glass windscreen when I drive over a pot hole ?
  3. Tomorrow I plan to fit a long window clamp across the front on the inside and leave it for 12 hours, as long as it is not raining ? There is not enough space inside the garage.

Any advice from someone who has conquered these problems ??

Richard & B

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How do you store your hard top?   Sitting on its front or rear end leaning against the wall?   Hanging from the bolt brackets by hooks on cables attached to the ceiling?   We found suspending was the best way to keep shape.

My hard top was always a horror show to fir each year which is why I gave up.   It always took two people to speed up the fitting.   When on the sidescreens needed adjusting.   Once all fitted it is so cosy.

I do not think the screen and frame will be compromised, so long as you have not bent things to fit.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Thanks for the replies. It is metal and is usually stored resting vertically against the wall with the two front brackets at the top and the interior facing the wall. This may be wrong. I am now considering making a metal frame with the holes in the correct locations and bolting the hardtop to it. If it spends nine months in the correct shape it should fit the TR next year ???

The two front brackets on the hardtop  had to be bent to allow the screws to line up. I will ty the large frame cramp that I have and will fit it from the inside for a day to try and make the profile less stressed and more accurate.

Thanks

Richard & B.

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After I sorted my hard top my only storage space was above the car. 
I did a video on my very simple method. I used an old set of incomplete Ali crutches as the lifting cross members and 1inch ratchet strap as the “rope”
 

as to fitting - I have bolts securing my screen frame stantions rather than the dzus fasteners and my screen is off the car more that on due to racing season but I do loosen the 4 stantion bolts when fitting the hardtop.

once all Lined up and all fittings loosely started in the threads these 4 screen frame bolts are done up tight and I work my way round the others a bit at a time the rear hardtop fittings are only thumb screws. 

 

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Hi Mike,

Try using one of these, a Kayak hoist. I've used this idea to lift "other stuff" into the roof/inaccessible areas. Having two fixing points will make it more stable/stop it spinning :rolleyes:

 

https://paddleandsurf.co.uk/product/legacy-kayak-ceiling-hoist/?gclid=CjwKCAjwkaSaBhA4EiwALBgQaIuKZs6sKoiQr1OmjLVl9tIwoRiB-IwthxydOzppzrU2MvmgXSDvUhoCp9QQAvD_BwE 

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I find it hard to believe that a steel hardtop moves from to rear. The wings( the sections either side bolting down on the 3/4 panel above the B post) I can understand. 
My car is normally HT on, but in is not an issue to remove and replace, with the exception of the natural spread with the “wings.”

Iain

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Kayak hoist reminded me of a bike hoist my brother has. Seems the same to me but I guess cyclists are lower down on the socio economic scale?

Screenshot_20221014-210341.png

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