Leslie rog Posted August 22, 2022 Report Share Posted August 22, 2022 Hi guys anyone fitted a Davies Craig EWP80 pump and controller to a 2ltr tr7 ? my water pump is leaking slightly again after a year. Don’t want to keep doing this. any hints on how to fit it? I know I have to remove the thermostat and put a solid bung in instead of the water pump, and another 90 deg pipe fitting anything else I need to know? or is it just better to fit another pump from rimmers? thanks for any help ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted August 22, 2022 Report Share Posted August 22, 2022 Lelsie, Can't answer for a TR7, but my 2.5L Vitesse has one. The instructions with the pump from DC tell you how to do it, including mounting the pump as low as possible - mine is on the rad output hose. On the Six cylinder engine, the fan belt is tensioned by moving the alternator in and out on its pivot, against the two fixed pulleys of the water pump and crank, so I just ground off all the vanes of the pump and left it as an idler. That won't help you if yours is leaking! I've had an EWP for fifteen years I think. The original one started to leak at the shaft seal too, the seal is not replaceable, so I fitted another about five years ago, and so far it's tight. Good luck! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted August 22, 2022 Report Share Posted August 22, 2022 I'm just looking into this for my Sprint engine. Go look at the Dolly club forum, the Dolly club also sells the waterpump bung (possibly two required). Not sure yet if any mods are required to the heater or manifold flow. John, the slant four has the water pump driven from a jackshaft, so you remove the pump and bung up the 'ole. The pump is geared off the jackshaft and on my engine the gears are worn to bu**ery. My engineer brother tells me that the use of this type of gear in an application that is not under constant pressure is now considered a no-no. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 23, 2022 Report Share Posted August 23, 2022 (edited) Stag uses similar https://socforum.com/forum/forum/stag-owners-club/soc-forum/21821-electric-water-pump-which-kit-to-use https://www.ejward.co.uk/triumph-stag-spares/engine-gear-box-and-servicing/cooling-and-heating-system/electronic-water-pump-kit-with-lcd-controller-clone.html Edited August 23, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted August 23, 2022 Report Share Posted August 23, 2022 On 8/22/2022 at 9:44 AM, john.r.davies said: Lelsie, Can't answer for a TR7, but my 2.5L Vitesse has one. The instructions with the pump from DC tell you how to do it, including mounting the pump as low as possible - mine is on the rad output hose. On the Six cylinder engine, the fan belt is tensioned by moving the alternator in and out on its pivot, against the two fixed pulleys of the water pump and crank, so I just ground off all the vanes of the pump and left it as an idler. That won't help you if yours is leaking! I've had an EWP for fifteen years I think. The original one started to leak at the shaft seal too, the seal is not replaceable, so I fitted another about five years ago, and so far it's tight. Good luck! John John remove the water pump and blank off the hole. Then use a shorter fan belt to he alternator . Helps to stop the flipping of the belt at high revs Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted August 23, 2022 Report Share Posted August 23, 2022 Have one on the Stag where changing the water pump is an utter git of a job. Same issue applies to the water pumps leaking on the Stag as the 7: the currently supplied seals are not good and fit where they touch. However you don't just blank off the hole as you have to keep the oil and water separate which the o rings on the water pump do. You need to make or buy a blanking plug (EJ Ward the Stag specialists sell them) After that it is a case of plumbing in the pump into the hoses as low as possible so that in the event of some water loss you don't get the issues that hit the Stag when water loss occurs - the original pump is high in the block so some water loss and the pump is out of the water. The electric pump goes in the bottom hose at low on the right of the engine. (I recall the fluid fow through the 7 rad is diferent) And wiring in the controller. The original stat is removed, the bipass hose blanked off as the pump pulses even at low coolant temps. There is a temp sender plumbed ito the top hose and wired to the electronic pump controller which also controls an electric fan. Set your desired engine temp. Pump pulses at low temps, runs faster at higher tems and turns the fan on when it gets hotter. Essentially keeping it at that temp. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted August 23, 2022 Report Share Posted August 23, 2022 And the dimensions for the water pump plug are... The drawing is not mine so check as you go. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted August 24, 2022 Report Share Posted August 24, 2022 I fitted a Davies Craig 80 pump to my Stag, after about a year I rtemoved it and fitted an external mechanical pump kit. The electric pump worked well, too well and the engine never got to temperature, It would get reasonably warm but never hot so the heater was ineffective and i understand a warm engine is not running well. On a damp day the demister just wouldn't demist at all. I tried to restrict the thermostat bleed but that is not recommended for the electric pump and didn't make much difference. The mechanical pump though worked just as expected. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted August 24, 2022 Report Share Posted August 24, 2022 Alan, You're supposed to run the EWP on a thermostat! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted August 24, 2022 Report Share Posted August 24, 2022 That would depend whether you had the electronic controller fitted I believe. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted August 25, 2022 Report Share Posted August 25, 2022 Yes as per Jerrytr5 instructions require a thermostat with a bypass bleed hole in order that pump is not dead-heading. Problem is that the pulses to the pump are not variable as in a mechanical pump where the pump revolutions are broadly in line with the fuel being burnt and heat to be dissipated. Now if the Davies Craig had a similar revs feed back circuit instead of a one-speed pump (albeit either pulsing or full ) it would be ideal for any car. I fitted the electronic version and now it sits forelornly on my shelf. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Leslie rog Posted August 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2022 Hi guys thanks for the feedback im going to fit the electric water pump with controller, as my mechanical pump is leaking again and the pump is just over a year old. do I really need to block off the water bypass tube between the thermostat housing and the old mechanical pump housing ? and do I really need to move the heater pipes of leave as is ? thanks les Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted August 26, 2022 Report Share Posted August 26, 2022 I'm struggling with those questions too. Have you got a water flow diagram? The workshop manual is somewhat vague. I'm assuming that the heater takes it's hot water input from the back of the cylinder head, through the heater and then back in to the pump housing. I was thinking it might be better to route the heater outflow down to the lower rad hose on the input side of the EWP. But one also has to consider the inlet manifold. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Leslie rog Posted August 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2022 (edited) On 8/26/2022 at 8:38 PM, jerrytr5 said: I'm struggling with those questions too. Have you got a water flow diagram? The workshop manual is somewhat vague. I'm assuming that the heater takes it's hot water input from the back of the cylinder head, through the heater and then back in to the pump housing. I was thinking it might be better to route the heater outflow down to the lower rad hose on the input side of the EWP. But one also has to consider the inlet manifold. Jerry You are correct so you have to block it at the pump housing and divert it to the bottom hose before the pump, if you do it this way you don’t need worry about the inlet manifold, now to get a t-peace for the lower hose ANYBODY ? I’m still looking into it. Edited August 28, 2022 by Leslie rog Better reply Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted August 28, 2022 Report Share Posted August 28, 2022 Came across these sites whilst trawling the web - some useful info in here. https://just-technology.co.uk/vehicle-electric-water-pump-controller/ http://www.dollysprint.com/GeneralTuning.htm scroll down to the section on EWP. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Leslie rog Posted August 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2022 10 hours ago, jerrytr5 said: Came across these sites whilst trawling the web - some useful info in here. https://just-technology.co.uk/vehicle-electric-water-pump-controller/ http://www.dollysprint.com/GeneralTuning.htm scroll down to the section on EWP. Jerry Thanks very interesting Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Leslie rog Posted October 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 On 8/27/2022 at 8:20 PM, Leslie rog said: You are correct so you have to block it at the pump housing and divert it to the bottom hose before the pump, if you do it this way you don’t need worry about the inlet manifold, now to get a t-peace for the lower hose ANYBODY ? I’m still looking into it. Right now fitted, the heater works if you do as I stated above, I had one problem the inlet manifold leaking at the water large o ring, , I have cleaned it up degrased it put sealant round the o ring , and let it dry for 24hrs, but still it leaked, I give up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted October 10, 2022 Report Share Posted October 10, 2022 Do you mean the bypass tube between the pump housing and the manifold? I decided that the bypass would not be required so I blocked it with a core plug. If the thermostat is removed and the electronics are controlling the pump then it's function is negated, and that's two potential leak points eliminated. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Leslie rog Posted October 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2022 Hi sadly that’s not the problem, it’s the waterhole from the inlet manifold to the head Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Leslie rog Posted June 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2023 Sorry for the delay, but here are pictures of the pump fitted Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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