EFI for TR5/6?

[Tim D.]

7 hours ago, TRTOM2498PI said:

I suspect it is more user friendly when installing it in another car (MG Midget for example) ?

Actually installing the rover ECU and wiring into another car is a cinch. Only pretty much  requires 12 V switched, 12v permanent and 0v and then use the rest of the rover loom between the engine and ecu. 

Only issue is getting the immobiliser deactivated which is not a DIY job

Tim

[TRTOM2498PI]

On 7/30/2022 at 7:08 PM, harrytr5 said:

Richard71 a mate of mine made the airbox as it is very tight in there due to a short indent in the wheel arch as per TR5 and early  TR6. Later TR6,s had the full indent which enables the bigger air box which he has a couple left as below. I just love how we all approached EFI and the work that went into it to achieve the same end. (CK that looks so sexy)

Regards Harry TR5 Nutter

Hi Harry,

What power did this make on the Emerald RR- can you remember ?

Cheers.

[harrytr5]

22 hours ago, TRTOM2498PI said:

Hi Harry,

What power did this make on the Emerald RR- can you remember ?

Cheers.

Engine built by a well known race engineer. Did not open it up so not a clue what is in there. Belongs to a mate of mine and I fitted all the EFI kit.

Made 205 BHP on Emeralds rolling road. He will be showing it amongst the modified class in Malvern which I am running with Dan and Graham Andrews

Come and have a gander.

Want to show yours Tom?

Regards Harry

[Tom Fremont]

( different Tom )

My trick engine made 201 BHP @5900 rpm so far on 40DCOEs. It's got an interference cam, superlight unbreakable Carillo rods and supposedly impossible domed forged pistons. ).030" overbore. Head was a Racetorations issue which he worked over to gain another 18% flow.

I say " so far " because the builder didn't have the patience for me to dial in some 42s I had restored by Mike Pierce in California. With a little luck it might make another 10 or so. What he did on that motor few if any have ever done and it pulls like hell - 131 lb-ft of torque at 1800 rpm, reaching 185 lb-ft by the end.

I'm still all in on Weber DCOEs. To date I haven't seen anything more appealing, but then I'm averse to electronics generally and can't imagine anything giving better reliability than the Webers ( done 143,000 miles so far on a used set installed in 1996 with zero replacement parts or failure of any kind ). 

I'm even using a factory AC mechanical fuel pump.

[TRTOM2498PI]

13 hours ago, Tom Fremont said:

( different Tom )

My trick engine made 201 BHP @5900 rpm so far on 40DCOEs. It's got an interference cam, superlight unbreakable Carillo rods and supposedly impossible domed forged pistons. ).030" overbore. Head was a Racetorations issue which he worked over to gain another 18% flow.

I say " so far " because the builder didn't have the patience for me to dial in some 42s I had restored by Mike Pierce in California. With a little luck it might make another 10 or so. What he did on that motor few if any have ever done and it pulls like hell - 131 lb-ft of torque at 1800 rpm, reaching 185 lb-ft by the end.

I'm still all in on Weber DCOEs. To date I haven't seen anything more appealing, but then I'm averse to electronics generally and can't imagine anything giving better reliability than the Webers ( done 143,000 miles so far on a used set installed in 1996 with zero replacement parts or failure of any kind ). 

I'm even using a factory AC mechanical fuel pump.

Hi Tom,

 

Very good. I have Carrillo rods in my motor, and they are a bloody good rod.

 

which cam do you have in yours ?

 

Cheers.

[Tom Fremont]

4 hours ago, TRTOM2498PI said:

Hi Tom,

 

Very good. I have Carrillo rods in my motor, and they are a bloody good rod.

 

which cam do you have in yours ?

 

Cheers.

Hi Tom,

It's a grind introduced to me by Racetorations years ago, Piper's no. 1312@105. I had (3) failures due to various defects, finally receiving a 4th which was so badly made it made a terrible racket and could barely be made to run - wildly out of spec with 371 degrees of duration instead of 292, we discovered. So it was reground here in the 'States by Bullet Cams, a source my world class engine builder says " I've never had any problem with them ". It wound up with 288 degrees duration @ 0.026" valve lash and 0.544" lift assuming 1.5:1 rocker ratio. When Piper made them to spec the valve timing was supposedly 41/71/71/41 with 0.504" lift. I timed them to 41 deg BTDC when installing and measured the lift at the valve of 0.490". I'll have to check the lift of the current Bullet version. That's as much information as I have . My engine builder likes GOODPARTS followers, considers them the best out there but he's not exclusively a British engine builder so may not have come across other good ones.

The thing about Carillo rods is their lightness - 425g vs. over 700g for the factory rods. That takes 4 lbs off the crank throws! They make the engine feel like it has a shorter stroke. As my builder says " Carillos really wake up these engines! ".

Best,

Tom

[FatJon]

On 1/8/2023 at 7:32 PM, JochemsTR said:

here in germany , MS and Ecumaster are well available. My seller has both of them and advised on Ecumaster. Ecumaster is a professional device, superior to MS. Housing and connectors meet all IP and EMC requirements. Software is included with all its options and programmable safety features and easy to use. Feel free to compare the ECUs yourself. I am glad I followed his advise and happy ever since.

This is my personal opinion. Nothing more, nothing less. I know there are lots out there being fully satisfied with MS and Emerald. I even had my test setup running with Speeduino. Does the job too. Like MS, these are DIY ECUs. When a customer wants MS, I install MS. When a customer asks for my recommendation, I recommend Ecumaster.

MS Pro versions are very nice. I use an MS Pro Evo on mine and there is really nothing on any other ECU that’s not available on mine. But of course they are 2 or 3x the price of the cheaper MS units in a metal box with a D connector.

It’s a little unfair to declare the entire MS system to be unprofessional. The basic home user versions are not professional in terms of the enclosure and connector hardware but the software is exactly the same as the Pro units with their automotive connectors and superior build quality.

It is fair to say the MS units require a much greater knowledge if electronics and if that’s not your area they are not a great choice.