Hamish Posted December 15, 2021 Report Share Posted December 15, 2021 2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said: There should be a shoulder on the pin of the shocker. Tighten the nut until the shaped washer is up to the shoulder and everything should be fine. Ralph +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted December 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2021 Thanks everyone. It sounds as though all is well as I have tightened up to the shoulder (which is a fairly hard stop). Cheers Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 15, 2021 Report Share Posted December 15, 2021 3 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said: There should be a shoulder on the pin of the shocker. Tighten the nut until the shaped washer is up to the shoulder and everything should be fine. Ralph As long as 1. The shoulder on the pin is the correct height (remember these are aftermarket items) 2. The new PU bushes and top washer are the correct thickness to allow you to tighten down to the shoulder. If either of them arent correct then all bets are off. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted December 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2021 Yet another question:). Is it normal for the brake pipe to the front caliper on the drivers side (RHD) to obstruct the removal of the lower wishbone (when replacing bushes)? I have removed the brake pipe already but it looks too short to me and I wonder if it is the right length and correctly routed. I will replace it with a new pipe anyway (one that is slightly longer) but would like to correct the routing if it is wrong. Thanks Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 15, 2021 Report Share Posted December 15, 2021 5 minutes ago, rjs993 said: Yet another question:). Is it normal for the brake pipe to the front caliper on the drivers side (RHD) to obstruct the removal of the lower wishbone (when replacing bushes)? I have removed the brake pipe already but it looks too short to me and I wonder if it is the right length and correctly routed. I will replace it with a new pipe anyway (one that is slightly longer) but would like to correct the routing if it is wrong. Thanks Robert No it shouldnt be anywhere near it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted January 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2022 (edited) Can anyone point me at a picture of the TR4 drivers side (RHD) brake pipe shape/route? This is the pipe that sits between the junction (on the chassis) and the flexible pipe connection at the hub? Can't see anything helpful in the manual(s). Length would also be helpful. Thanks Edited January 5, 2022 by rjs993 Add info Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted January 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 Hi, Q: How do you spline the inside of the lock washer on either side of the trunnion (TR4)? The hole is smooth when supplied. Thanks Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 6, 2022 Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 32 minutes ago, rjs993 said: Hi, Q: How do you spline the inside of the lock washer on either side of the trunnion (TR4)? The hole is smooth when supplied. Thanks Robert You dont, you tighten them up onto the splines on the trunnion shaft which cuts them into the washer then back the nut off as stated in the manual. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 6, 2022 Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 On 1/4/2022 at 6:22 PM, rjs993 said: Can anyone point me at a picture of the TR4 drivers side (RHD) brake pipe shape/route? This is the pipe that sits between the junction (on the chassis) and the flexible pipe connection at the hub? Can't see anything helpful in the manual(s). Length would also be helpful. Thanks Not a really helpful picture as its a TR3 but basically the same, from the 4way it follows up under the turret support then out, dont have a measurement Im afraid Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted January 6, 2022 Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 Just make sure they are not too hard as I was inexperienced and tried to force one on and it buggered up the thread. just don’t force it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 6, 2022 Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 On my TR4, I use Revington's RTR4041 braided hoses for both front & rear. The site says these fit TR3 also.. I'll have a look tomorrow & measure as I have a pair on the shelf in the garage. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted January 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2022 Thanks Stuart. Really helpful on both counts. Thanks Hamish. I will be sure to be gentle:) Thanks IanC. It is actually the length of the copper pipe that I am looking for as I need to get one made i.e. the pipe that sits between the junction (on the chassis) and joins the flexible pipe connection at the hub? Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 Sorry - cannot help with length of the copper pipe as 4VC's pipework is decidedly non-standard in order to ensure that neither brake nor fuel lines could get ripped off when negotiating rally routes of the 1960s. The lines run inside the cockpit, not underneath the car. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 13 hours ago, rjs993 said: Thanks Stuart. Really helpful on both counts. Thanks Hamish. I will be sure to be gentle:) Thanks IanC. It is actually the length of the copper pipe that I am looking for as I need to get one made i.e. the pipe that sits between the junction (on the chassis) and joins the flexible pipe connection at the hub? Robert If you talk to Automec they make pipe sets and are pretty helpful so they will probably be able to tell you the length. https://automec.co.uk/ Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rjs993 Posted August 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2022 Hi. As mentioned above I have fitted PU bushes to the front suspension on my TR4 and fitted new shockers. On reassembly the position of the the steering wheel has changed (i.e. the spokes are in a different position). This suggests that the steering alignment may have moved but I cannot thin of any reason why this would be. Any thoughts? Thanks for the feedback/help over the months/years. This forum is a huge asset. Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 24, 2022 Report Share Posted August 24, 2022 Changing the dampers would not affect steering, but the bushes might, especially if the old ones were worn. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 24, 2022 Report Share Posted August 24, 2022 On 1/6/2022 at 12:47 PM, rjs993 said: Hi, Q: How do you spline the inside of the lock washer on either side of the trunnion (TR4)? The hole is smooth when supplied. Thanks Robert Or reuse the old ones to avoid the possibility of thread damage that Hamish suffered. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 24, 2022 Report Share Posted August 24, 2022 Hi Robert, regarding the lock washer splines - Regarding the splines they need the meerest interference fit with the washer (5 or 10 thou on the diameter) and then the nut should run it down. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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