RobH Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 14 minutes ago, stillp said: Do you think Triumph could have saved the cost of that by advising owners to put less water in the radiator? Well effectively that is what the filler neck on the sidescreen cars does Pete, and why it throws water out if you overfill it. Perhaps the modern bottle system was cheaper than a special radiator ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 No, I'm not angry Marco - we live in a free world, you're entitled to be wrong! Yes, what's your view on the expansion bottle? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 Just now, RobH said: Well effectively that is what the filler neck on the sidescreen cars does Pete, and why it throws water out if you overfill it. Perhaps the modern bottle system was cheaper than a special radiator ! Possibly more reliable Rob, I believe they tend to crack where the filler neck meets the header tank. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 Only if you lean on it ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 On a sidescreen car, is the filler neck the highest point in the cooling system, like on the TR4? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted July 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 (edited) I’m not at home at the moment but maybe later this arvo I’ll get the chance to try Andrew’s approach to bleeding any air out the system and can report back. Rgds Ian Edited July 15, 2020 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 What about the voltage regulator? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 Possibly Marco, but they usually seem to fail totally, which would make the temp gauge read zero, rather than a couple of mm higher than before. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctc77965o Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 ignition timing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 He said he'd checked the timing. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted July 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 34 minutes ago, stillp said: He said he'd checked the timing. Pete I have, both statically and with a strobe. Its running at about 11/12 deg advanced at idle which is where it has always been. Rgds Ian PS Is it too far advanced or too far retarded which can make engines run hotter? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trchris Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 Hi Ian My 4a also runs a tad hotter since I rebuilt the engine using 89mm liners it doesn't over heat or use coolant the gauge is only a guide I checked the temp using a infra red hand held probe and found it was running at 68c measured at the top of the radiator. You may be over worrying about a problem which doesn't exist if there's no boiling and over heating whilst driving . Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 4 hours ago, stillp said: Possibly Marco, but they usually seem to fail totally, which would make the temp gauge read zero, rather than a couple of mm higher than before. Pete Standard would be a capillary tube on a 3a. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 +1 for Chris! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted July 15, 2020 Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 (edited) OK, here is what I think about the bottle. When I bought my 4A it came without that bottle and this worked lovely. If I know correctly the TR2-3-4 have no such a bottle and other classic cars also never had, and this always worked. You just have to keep enough air in the system and do not overfill the radiator. The pump is s MONSTER and keeps the air in the flow, this is not a toy house heating pump. Years ago I anyway added a bottle – but it is always dry. But I also have also been told that sweet stories about bleeding the air out of the system – and believed that hearsay! This is why I installed 2-3 years ago my own special bleeding system (I reported) on my TR4A, also 3 digital thermometers (thermostat housing, water pump outlet, radiator return) to check the success. The system allows me to bleed ALL the air out of the system in an air bottle after driving about 10 miles and then drive with 100% coolant. AND to bring all the air back the next moment in the system and continue to drive at once with the standard coolant–air mix. Like “air on/off”, very easy. And this makes no difference at all on the temperatures. WHAT AN ANNOYING DISAPOINTMENT! So why the bottle? I my opinion too much customer overfilled the radiator constantly believing that stories, the engine always lost coolant and they complained about. To get rid of this customer complaints they fitted an OVERFLOW bottle (not an expansion bottle) and presented this as a benefit. In my poinion that's all about the bottle, I can realize no technical benefit. If you use this overflow bottle always filled 1/3 with coolant, blow coolant out and suck it back you constantly support your cast iron engine and cylinder head with fresh oxygen. Did you realize this? This a an "opened expansion system", on house heating system we get rid of this already for about 40 years because this causes rust and mud in the system! The expansion container on modern cars is needed because of different reasons, mainly the rad position and rad construction allows no filler neck, and it is covered with plastic to protect our fingers. Please make your own thought about and believe only half the stories you have been told. Ciao, Marco Edited July 16, 2020 by Z320 added photos Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctc77965o Posted July 16, 2020 Report Share Posted July 16, 2020 11 hours ago, Ian Vincent said: I have, both statically and with a strobe. Its running at about 11/12 deg advanced at idle which is where it has always been. Rgds Ian PS Is it too far advanced or too far retarded which can make engines run hotter? Retarded will run hotter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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