Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Keith Wigglesworth

Rear Overrider Tubes

Recommended Posts

I wonder if you can help me?  I am partway through the bodywork on the rebuild of my TR2. It isa very big job and throughout I have had the expert help of my brother and several well informed TR owners. A small issue has stumped us. 
I have a repro rear apron with tubes brazed in for the rear overriders. I plan to unbraze these to give me some wiggle room when fitting. The question is. Should they pass through the closing panel and butt onto the chassis or stand away from it in some way. In the cars I have looked at there does not seem to be a good example to work from. I have posted a pic of the not quite positioned panel to illustrate. 
Many Thanks1D5573EE-53AF-43E6-8332-2934CE278C28.thumb.jpeg.600e3215f9dcc0b3abea56fde349cee7.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Keith,

Mine pass through a tubular section in the rear box section and butt onto the chassis. I’m pretty sure that is the way it should be done. 

Rgds Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Keith,

I didn’t make it clear in my post. There is a tube welded into the box section at the rear that forms a path for the slightly smaller diameter tube to pass through and act as a spacer for the rear over rider support. 

Rgds Ian

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank You Christian.  That photo of the rear of your shell places more light on the original assembly.

Here is Keith's photo reorientated to be like yours.

Cheers

Peter W

 

Rear Apron and closers.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine goes right through the panel and buts up against the chassis. I know about this detail because I just pulled the back of the body  lower and closer to the chassis. This meant that the long bolt would not pass through and the hole had to be enlarged to make access. However the doors close better now.

My tube is free and I had it chrome plated years ago and I have the long bolt in stainless steel.

Richard & B

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The inner tube is welded to the front and rear sections of the box that

is made up of the rear apron and the apron closing panel, and is flush with both outer

surfaces and does not protrude in either direction nor butt

up against the chassis.It was actually part of the rear apron panel  (p/n 900477)

This fixed tube then accommodates a distance tube of smaller diameter  ( P/N 602001) which,

with the rear overrider bolt passes through the o/r bracket,rear apron and it's closing panel

, and clamps up to the chassis.Personally, I use the Revington 1 piece spacers/bolts , which means

that you do away with the distance tube and bolt (which is what people think IS the inner tube when the whole

lot rusts solid and gives rise to the misconception that it clamps up to the chassis/body mounting), and which

 don't sieze up within the welded tube (provided they are well greased).

 

Roger M-E

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Keith,

It occurs to me that you might well wish to acquire the Revington one piece overrider

fitments before you weld the whole caboodle together.I count my self extremely

lucky when i got my body/chassis back from the 'man' that when i trial fitted the

overrider brackets to the car, having fitted all the body/chassis mounting pads, the

Revington fitment lined the o/rider bracket up perfectly with the rear chassis mounting hole.

You have the chance to get that corrected before you commit with your aftermarket panels.

Good luck

Roger M-E

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, roger murray-evans said:

Keith,

It occurs to me that you might well wish to acquire the Revington one piece overrider

fitments before you weld the whole caboodle together.I count my self extremely

lucky when i got my body/chassis back from the 'man' that when i trial fitted the

overrider brackets to the car, having fitted all the body/chassis mounting pads, the

Revington fitment lined the o/rider bracket up perfectly with the rear chassis mounting hole.

You have the chance to get that corrected before you commit with your aftermarket panels.

Good luck

Roger M-E

Hi Roger,

Thanks for the replies.  

 

Diving in here.....Yes to the over rider fitment using the Revington type mounts instead of tubes and bolts.  I made  Keith a pair of those bolt cum tube extensions in stainless some years ago.  He thinks he has lost them so I could be back on the lathe again.    I made the ones for my car back in the 1990's from mild steel and had them powder coated.  I had to reduce the od to make sure they would fit the apron tubes once powder coated.

Cheers

Peter W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies and excellent pictures. I now have a good idea of how to approach this job. Just started on a decorating project I am afraid and my labours are therefore diverted for a while. I will get back to you with pictures when I am able to work on the tr again. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.