Adam Blackaby Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 Forgive the stupidity, I should know the answer but I've forgotten. I'm having intermittent problems with the horn, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I suspect an issue with the earthing of the center push. Should it remain stationary when the wheel turns or move with the steering wheel? I'm sure one of you, not least my old colleague PAW, will know the answer and chastise me for my stupidity!! Best Adam Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 The horn push along with the indicator switch remains stationary (assuming your car is standard and that you still have the steering box). The whole centre section of the hub is attached to a short tube which should be clipped into the long stator tube which in turn is fixed at the lower end by a collet on the steering box. The only bit that revolves with the wheel is the plate inside the hub which carries the trip mechanism to cancel the indicators. That plate is held to the outer hub by three grub screws located behind the wheel. For your intermittent horn connection it would first be worth checking the bullet connectors in the loom which exits the end of the stator tube at the steering box. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 As Rob has described the horn push assy remains stationary when the wheel is turned. If yours is turning it may well be the collet (olive) and nut that grips the stator tube at the bottom of the steering box where the wires come out, is loose. Two person job to tighten. One holds the horn push centrally whilst sitting in the car, and the other tightens the nut at the front underneath. intermittent working could be simply the horn push assy is not earthing. That again points to the collet at the bottom, that forms the earth return. If you remove this nut and collet (Olive) oil may run out. Refill through the Rubber bunged hole in the lower steering box tube. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adam Blackaby Posted June 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 Thanks Rob & Peter, What, if anything retains the short shaft on the horn push to the stator tube? Is it just an interference fit. Cant see anything in the catalogue showing a more positive connection I have used my favourite tool, no not a Birmingham screwdriver, but WD40, liberally around the horn push and the retaining plate in case its not moving freely. I will have another go tomorrow to see is the movement is better. I'm fairly certain that the stator tube is locked solid in the steering box . But I will have another look. Fortunately, courtesy of Russ at Moss, I have a spare olive and brass nut if required. Will keep you posted. Best Adam Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 Basically just a push fit Adam - one tube fits over the other and there is a slot to prevent rotation if I recall correctly. It's a long time since I had it apart. The joint doesn't look very strong so be a bit careful if you are demounting the hub. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 It is a interference fit. Over time the fit does become a bit loose and on one of mine the horn push moves a centimetre or two. As said previously, the whole lot is held in place by the olive and nut at the front of the steering box where the stator tube protrudes through the steering box. This is also the earth. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 (edited) You are in luck I am about to give my brother a TR2 horn push and stator tube for his TR2 rebuild, so they are on the floor in the garage. The horn push short tube goes over the stator tube. The protrusions ( 4 dimples) on the inside of the horn push short tube locate in a slot in the stator tube. That links the two together which are stopped from rotating by the olive/collet and nut at the bottom of the steering box. Cheers Peter W PS Dimple qty changed from 3 to 4 - must learn my numbers...... Thank you Bob Edited June 7, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Qty change Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 3 dimples ?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 7 hours ago, Lebro said: 3 dimples ?? Well done Pike. I was wondering who would spot that. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 What if on the horn push, when you signal left or right, the self-cancelling doesn't work? What could be the cause? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 8, 2020 Report Share Posted June 8, 2020 (edited) If it isn't working at all Dave, it might be worn or broken parts in the indicator mechanism or else the plate which trips it, which ought to rotate with the wheel, might not be clamped properly by the grubscrews. There are three PDFs here about maintaining the control head (towards the bottom of the page. One has photos of the mechanism): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2H2NJt34OffMDVmOTZlZWItYTcyMy00ZDhkLTliOWEtOWU1OWRhNDZhYmRl Edited June 8, 2020 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted June 8, 2020 Report Share Posted June 8, 2020 5 hours ago, RobH said: There are three PDFs here about maintaining the control head... Thanks Rob, you get an extra appreciation point from me, adding to the 355 you have already Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted June 9, 2020 Report Share Posted June 9, 2020 On 6/6/2020 at 6:46 PM, Adam Blackaby said: Thanks Rob & Peter, What, if anything retains the short shaft on the horn push to the stator tube? Is it just an interference fit. Cant see anything in the catalogue showing a more positive connection I have used my favourite tool, no not a Birmingham screwdriver, but WD40, liberally around the horn push and the retaining plate in case its not moving freely. I will have another go tomorrow to see is the movement is better. I'm fairly certain that the stator tube is locked solid in the steering box . But I will have another look. Fortunately, courtesy of Russ at Moss, I have a spare olive and brass nut if required. Will keep you posted. Best Adam Adam, Pull the stator tube out and add a couple of small spot welds (file spots down as necessary) as this is what can and does happen when the stator tube and control head tube rotate on each other. Cheers, Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.