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RichT

1969 Clutch issue

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Hi i have a 69 which i am having clutch issues with. I drove it to work a month ago(140 mile round trip) and as each day passed the clutch got worse and worse until i could no longer change gear. I have so far replaced the master and slave cylinders and bled the system. this made no difference. I have then had the gearbox out of the car and replaced the taper pin, the original was cracked/about to shear completely. I put it all back together, but still no difference. Whilst the trans tunnel cover was off i noticed that the pushrod was barely moving inside the slave cylinder when the clutch pedal was pressed. About 1/2" max and it seems to be sticking out along way as though the pushrod is too short. The slave cylinder mounting bracket is mounted to the engine side of the flange. The cylinder is currently mounted on the aft side of the bracket but is using washers as spacers to try and get it closer to the clutch lever cross shaft. It appears that the rod may be too short as i can push it back inside the slave cylinder quite a bit from its normal resting place so is only getting partial movement. i have looked at the mounting bracket  and due to its shape cant see how it could be fitted to the gearbox side of the flywheel flange. Any help or advice great-fully received.

Richard

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My cylinder is mounted as you describe but without any spacer washers. Slave cylinder is connected to center hole.

Slave pushrod should move at least 5/8". Are your clutch hoses allright?

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What is the height of the clutch pedal compared to the brake pedal, they should be level with each other.

I suspect that you have the wrong push rod in the master cylinder, a shorter one, can you compare it with the original? It can be changed over.

John

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Do you have excessive wear in the clevis pins and holes they go in, and what about the pedal bushes, early cars had plastic and completely wear away, but can be replaced with the later metal bushes. 

Gareth

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11 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

Do you have excessive wear in the clevis pins and holes they go in, and what about the pedal bushes, early cars had plastic and completely wear away, but can be replaced with the later metal bushes. 

Gareth

Hi Rich,

The first thing to check is have you got the correct size master cylinder as it s/b a 0.75" bore type and not a 0.7". Then check as stated above, the TR clutch system will not tolerate any play or oval holes in the clevis pin yokes. In fact the whole system s/b play free in all the moving joints. Get someone else to operate the clutch pedal to see how much movement there is in the pedal before the clutch operating arm moves on the side of the gearbox. Lastly make sure that the carpet/underlay underneath the pedal is not causing a problem i.e. too thick!

Bruce.

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I bought the complete replacement kit from the TR shop which included new hose and replacement clevis pins. There is no play in the pedal bushes apart from side to side, and i think the pedals look fairly level,( will double check on the way home.)

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I can see you have replaced the taper pin.....

Get under the car and detach the push rod from slave cylinder to gearbox clutch lever.

1. By hand, Push the lever forward as far  and hard as you can.  

2. By hand, Push the lever backwards to contact the clutch and then gently keep pushing. 

Is there any obvious movement of the lever once it has contacted the clutch mechanism?  I would describe this as 'dead movement'  If so retry and attempt to replicate.  This dead movement would indicate the taper pin has gone again.  Did you fit a secondary roll pin or bolt in the fork to attach it to the rod?

Cheers

Peter W

PS check the crank shaft thrust washer end float.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT

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