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1972 TR6 not starting after refitting cylinder head


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A question. Why torque the head down to 65lbft? The book says 80lbft. Not having it torqued down runs a higher risk of blowing the gasket or worse.

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Trever,

succes:)

If you torque the head further, the gasket may be compressed a bit more and this will reduce valve clearances, so check your valve clearances after torquing.

Waldi

 

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Yes, because half of the bolts is below the rocker shaft. This will also disturb valve clearances.

Regards,

Waldi

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1 hour ago, Waldi said:

Yes, because half of the bolts is below the rocker shaft. This will also disturb valve clearances.

Regards,

Waldi

Hi Waidi,

Not strictly true if you have a set of crow's feet adaptors as they are designed for this type of application where you cannot get directly get on to the hexagon with a socket! I am not certain as to why the head was not fully torqued up in the first place? A lot of testing went into finding out the correct torque and compression of the head gasket bearing in mind that Triumph had problems with head gaskets on early 6 cylinder engines hence the later type with modified fire rings, counter sunk grooves in block and modified strengthen blocks.

Bruce. 

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Good points raised, the Haynes manual I have specifies 65-70 lb ft. I had planned to torque up to 70 on the re torque exercise. Is it the works manual that's says 80 lb ft? Please could this be confirmed. Mine although a CP engine is later than CP75000 and has the later block as Bruce discusses. Thanks again Trevor

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I've just researched on line and found the factory TR6 repair manual and this gives a definitive 80 lb ft.

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My manual is TR6 Part No 545277 Issue 1. It says 80lbft.

I also have a CR block in my CP car, with CP head, metering unit etc. I assumed the same torque settings.

Edited by John McCormack
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John, Perfect, the issue I picked was Issue 2; nice to see good alignment! I'll probably do this next Wednesday. Many thanks again.

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Today (Wednesday) I retorqued the head the head to 80 lb ft and reset the valve clearances. The engine is running nicely, although I have had to re bleed 5&6 injectors a number of times before all was well. 

Next job is to drain some water off and Re introduce antifreeze. 

 Getting there! Thanks Trevor

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all, final catch up. Cars been going okay until I went to a club meeting a week last Tuesday and the dreaded rich fume smell was all too obvious at all speeds. I had the hood up. Anyway today I’d thought I do the basics and do the tongue vacuum test on the metering unit hose. The engine was running initially and I want to undue the hose attached to the manifold and as I touched it the engine note changed! It was lose and I wasn’t getting the full vacuum in the hose. So simple! While in the mood I attached my pressure gauge to the fuel supply line by the metering unit T piece I have in place. The supply pressure on battery was 80psi and slightly higher with the engine running. I adjusted the spillback valve in the boot to just over 100psi engine running.  I was a little surprised at the lower reading. I had changed the suction filter a couple of years ago. This is something I should keep an eye on more regularly and buy a spare filter too. 

Best regards Trevor 

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