My car finally runs properly!

[iani]

I have been posting for months about my problems with getting my car to run properly, I struggled to get it to idle at a reasonable speed, I couldn't get near to full throttle etc. Last weekend I had very little throttle pedal movement then I had none at all, on inspection the bracket that holds the cable had bent inwards and hooked itself over the rod. I fitted a new pedal assembly today and was amazed at how much the original had bent by. I then fitted the throttle cable and discovered that I couldn't connect it at the inlet end as it was too short. After replacing the wire with a new piece, I reset the rods and put everything back together, my car is completely transformed, my throttle is really light and I have the full range of travel, what an improvement.

 

I would recommend checking the state of your pedal brackets, RTR list a strengthened pedal assembly, they are out of stock so I had a piece of rod welded as per the photo on the RTR site and hopefully mine won't bend again.

 

Ian

[Steves_TR6]

Great to hear someone getting a result after trials and tribulations Ian !

[SeanF]

Great news Ian. Well done.

[Rogcastle]

Hi Ian

 

Have been following your posts with interest so great news that you have finally solved the problem. I have recently partly solved poor performance issues on my TR6. In my case it was new wiring/relay to a Bosch pump so appreciate how you are feeling.

 

I also know the throttle doesn't open fully so thanks for the tip and will have a look at the peddle brackets.

 

Roger

[iani]

Hi Ian

 

Have been following your posts with interest so great news that you have finally solved the problem. I have recently partly solved poor performance issues on my TR6. In my case it was new wiring/relay to a Bosch pump so appreciate how you are feeling.

 

I also know the throttle doesn't open fully so thanks for the tip and will have a look at the peddle brackets.

 

Roger

I'd check the length of your throttle cable Roger, in my case that was what was preventing full throttle movement, I hadn't realised that the bracket was bent and this was limiting the range. When I set the throttle rods up with the cable disconnected I achieved the full range of movement, then I had to fit a new wire as the original was too short.

[Rogcastle]

Thanks Ian will have a look when I get back from hols.

 

Roger

[Tim D.]

Throttle pedal definitely seems to be a weak point.. mine snapped just as a got back from a weekend rally in Essex this year.. very lucky.. I think at this age they are suffering from metal fatigue. Added up welding extra strengthening..

Cheers

Tim

[Rogcastle]

Definately worth a look at.

 

Any ideas on a quick fix should the cable/pedal break when out and about. I thought maybe you could disconnect the choke cable to the MU and adjust the idle screw on the choke to increase rpm a bit and then use the choke as a throttle. I haven't tried it, but has anyone else or any better ideas?

 

Roger

[jah]

Carry a bicycle rear inner brake cable with a pear end & barrel end. Cut off the barrel end then solder the cut end. Keep with a screw type cable

connector.

This has worked for me in the past.

John

[Tim D.]

Worse comes to the worse you can disconnect from the pedal re-route through the window and have a hand throttle.. But only for short distances mind..

Tim

[Spit_2.5PI]

Carry a bicycle rear inner brake cable with a pear end & barrel end. Cut off the barrel end then solder the cut end. Keep with a screw type cable

connector.

This has worked for me in the past.

John

 

That's good advice. My throttle and heater cables are all from bike shops! My only comment is that I've never had success soldering them - well, not since the 80's - and I presume it's because the inners are stainless steel these days. However, superglue seems to work well.

 

Cheers, Richard